Manifold Gaskets - A Nightmare

[Jon Brown]

Tried to replace the manfold gasket on the o/s yesterday.

Managed to get three of the top bolts undone (front going backwards) and the front bottom one, I just can't get to the others. Have tried from the top which was optimistic and from the bottom (car on axlestands) I couldn't get the reach on two of the bolts.

The second bottom bolt from the top I couldn't see and when I did get the spanner on (open ended as ring end would fit)could tell if it was spinning or striping the head. Dont think I stripped the head of the bolt.

Gave up in the end and washed the cars.

Are there any tips/tricks I should know about?

[macdeb]

It is awkward but you may find it easier if you remove the starter motor, that will give better access to the bottom bolts. Also worth getting a new 'good' quality open-ended 9/16ths spanner as a cheap one will round off the blots if your not careful.

Edited by macdeb on Monday 17th January 09:01

[Red Cabbage]

I found a selection of spanners with various lengths and cranks helped. Some were only accessible from the bottom.

[spend]

You should de-torque all the bolts before you start removing them... ie 2 days before wire brush what you can and spray with penetrant, day before crack bolts, spray again, then on the day you should have fewer surprises.

It is easier subsequently if you clean threads, bolts & copper slip. Some folks have taken to thread locking the bolts in an attempt to stop them loosening, you may have the misfortune to have inherited one of those cars

[Red Cabbage]

If bolts refuse to undo, try tightening them up by a 1/16th of a turn just to 'crack' the bond between threads.

[blueg33]

When you do get them off and are ready to replace them, use nordlock washers to stop them coming loose.

[Jon Brown]

New spanner is good idea, will have to nip to halfords this evening.

Fortunelty the bolts that I did get to most were rather easy to undo.

Bolts are all sprayed and ready, I will have a look tonight and probally try again at the weekend.

Thanks

[Simon says]

No use at the moment I know but they get much easier the more you do them I have actually done quite a few cars now and no longer dread the job but in saying that I check the bolts will loosen 1st,it's also imperative you check the manifold faces for corrosion & warpage otherwise your just wasting your time and will be doing the job again not long after + take note of what's been posted already

[Red Cabbage]

Jon Brown said:

New spanner is good idea, will have to nip to halfords this evening.

Fortunelty the bolts that I did get to most were rather easy to undo.

Bolts are all sprayed and ready, I will have a look tonight and probally try again at the weekend.

Thanks

I used three or four different spanners to suit the access of various bolts.

[dog man]

Maybe use some 14mm spanners for a nice tight fit

[Marty V8]

macdeb said:

It is awkward but you may find it easier if you remove the starter motor, that will give better access to the bottom bolts. Also worth getting a new 'good' quality open-ended 9/16ths spanner as a cheap one will round off the blots if your not careful.

Edited by macdeb on Monday 17th January 09:01

+1 for the starter motor removal.

Lots of swearing also helps.

Good luck

[Jon Brown]

I was using a 14mm spanner which seemed pretty tight and there was a bit of swearing.

Unfortunetly Ill have to wait to the weekend to give it another bash.

I hope its a lot easier on a ramp, might have to drop round my cousins garage and do it there.

[Badmutha]

From previous posts on this, I think Snap-on do a cranked spanner which gives access to the hard to reach nuts. I can't find the post but perhaps someone else can remember.

[CHGRIFF]

If still having difficulty after other solutions, unbolt the engine mounts from the chassis, this will allow the engine addional lift to gain more clearance between the inner wing and manifold. You will need to place a jack under the supported area of the sump and use a suitable block.
If lifting the engine you must be careful not to bend the gearchange transfer tube running inline forward above the gearbox, this could touch the chassis lateral tube causing it to bend. OK if you go with caution.

[Alexdaredevilz]

ive done mine twice, and if i have to do it again, im taking the heads off with it or paying some one else to do it

[dogbucket]

Badmutha said:

From previous posts on this, I think Snap-on do a cranked spanner which gives access to the hard to reach nuts. I can't find the post but perhaps someone else can remember.

that will be me

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...