Looks bad
Looks bad
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dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Leaking steam from radiators and heater matrix, anyone recommend a radiator sealer? I dont fancy taking all that off. Or do you lot know another easier way. Help be much appreciated.

Was thinking about flushing the system with Rusty nails banghead.

Dix

jmorgan

36,010 posts

314 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Obvious question first, not a bit of damp or water got on the rad and steaming off? Loose pipes?

Recently did my flexible pipes to the matrix and they had stretched alarmingly. So easy to get off and there were weeping fluid marks around the matrix pipe it went on?

Worst comes to the worst with the matrix I think you could isolate it and wear long johns.

Personally I would not use a sealer, I understand it can get into places you would rather it did not and gum up.

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
The steam from the rad is pretty constant when temp warms up but has me thinking cause hasnt lost any water or very little at least. John you say the flexys to the matrix are easy to remove refit? is mine different cause they penetrate through the bulkhead and attach behind the dash no clips visible in the engine bay?

Dix

jmorgan

36,010 posts

314 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
I don't mind Jeff either.... wink

Yours a 350? (OK, maybe obvious but checking your profile is up to date). Mine a 400 so not sure what access you have. I had to remove my console (the plate and the veneer) and the clocks to get at mine. The plumbing around the back of the engine is easy to get at (obviously) but I do not want to send you down this route unless it is really necessary. Torch and a mirror and a back like a Russian gymnast first and have a look see. Anyone else done the matrix?

This is what I found. Probably been on the car since new. You could turn it on the metal pipe by hand but this is not saying its the same for you....


mrzigazaga

18,816 posts

195 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... coming from window air vent
Sorry to hear that mate..It sounds like the warning signs were there though..Definately dont use rad seal unless you are bodging it to get rid..Check you hoses..sometimes taking off the old ones will mean replacing with new..If all else fails you will probably have to take out the rad and get a refurb not sure if the matrix can be done as well..but it is a lot cheaper than a new one plus its peace of mind..If you can bypass the matrix then do so..the weather is warming up so you will have plenty of time to save up for a new one..Good luck mate..Zig

jmorgan

36,010 posts

314 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Steam is a small part of water they way it comes off so may not be so obvious at first with reference to the amount missing from the tank. Can you get a pressure tester?


Edit. May have a copy of a diagram that some kind soul (Wedg1e????) put up many moons ago. Never built it.

Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 18th January 09:39

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Sorry Jeff should have known being a Jeff meslef, ill take some piccy's when i get home from work but it looks different from yours, cheers for the help lads, and yes it is a 350, 1983

Dix

grahamw48

9,944 posts

268 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
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You sure it's not frost ?

Jonny weggie

1,607 posts

221 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
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Hi Jeff, as far as i know the two heater pipes come from back of engine through bulk head on passenger side and then down into matrix, can get a hold of them if you take side panel off by passengers leg then get a big f*ck off torch to see them [take it from there].
As for the front rad, it depend's where it's leaking from,if you take bonnet off [3mins] you can get to top of rad [there is a metal two part putty on the market] that goes as hard as metal, i sell it, so if you need one no problem let me know.
If on the other hand you need to take rad out it's not too long a job, spoiler 4 bolts from underneath and then a couple of bolts on side of rad, if you have to take out there's two locating pins at the bottom of rad put a rubber washer on them it saves vibration which cause leaks on bottom right hand side of rad.

jonny.

tempus

674 posts

231 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
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You could try K-seal or Comma Xstream rad sealer as they won`t clog anything up,but it is only putting off the day.smile

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Tried it last night Graham when it was pretty mild and the steam didnt stop mind, Im probably over reacting again. I also noticed that the inlet manifold bolts to the head were only finger tight and a small leak had apperared there?? Strange. Nipped them up and that stopped. also a small collection of gunge on the back of the head below the hoses to the heater matrix, with no obvious sign of where its coming from?

Dix

jmorgan

36,010 posts

314 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
dixiebabes said:
Sorry Jeff should have known being a Jeff meslef, ill take some piccy's when i get home from work but it looks different from yours, cheers for the help lads, and yes it is a 350, 1983

Dix
No problem. As said the set up on a 350 if different to a 400. You will have to get in there to have a look see. Watch out for them cables and the bulb container with the optical leads for the switches. Not sure how much you can see. Look for leaks other than the matrix. Maybe a screen seal leaking onto it? Just a thought.

rev-erend

21,624 posts

314 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
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Don't waist you money on seal stuff .. it's just to get you home and as you can imagine does the internal waterways in the engine no favours at all.

Best bet is to replace pipes or recore / replace rad to fix the problem.

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
Heres the set up on mine looks like they are fixed to the heater matrix behind the bulkhead

Dix



Edited by dixiebabes on Tuesday 18th January 21:17


Edited by dixiebabes on Tuesday 18th January 21:18

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
I have used radweld when I had a rad weeping type of leak, it does work for a while (2-3 months) but the leak will come back so yes, it's just putting off the day. I think the vibration in a Tiv doesn't help. Don't be tempted to get the more expensive 8 or 9 quid stuff, that's a complete waste of money.

I only use half a bottle of radweld at a time, it did the trick, but I put it down the swan neck "breather" pipe rather than the header tank, to get it directly into the system.

Radweld was on special offer at Screwfix recently.

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
quotequote all
The old girl is garaged up at the mo so i think im gunna wait till it get warmer and do the repairs propperly meself. Thanks for all the comments guys. If anyone has a step by step guide for removal of the matrix it would be a big help thanks again lads.

Dix

carob

3,585 posts

241 months

Wednesday 19th January 2011
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Jeff

Cant help at the moment as i am still away, but if you need a hand when i get back give me a shout.

Need to get Moke back on the road soon as there is something coming up that you might be interested in,

Cheers

Rob

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Wednesday 19th January 2011
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Cheers Robby lad shouldnt be too much a bother hopefully.

Dix

Wedg1e

27,041 posts

295 months

Wednesday 19th January 2011
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Definately dont use rad seal unless you are bodging it to get rid..
... not something that we want to encourage amongst ourselves, now is it? wink
Different story if it's a mass-market tin box, but look how many people come on here with the horror stories of what previous owners have done... and some of those have been supposed car enthusiasts rolleyes

tempus

674 posts

231 months

Thursday 20th January 2011
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Modern synthetic leak sealers are several generations away from the old fish scale products that will settle in your system and cause other problems,modern ones will stay in the system and remain effective for several years.smile