Tasmin Rear pads

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Is it worth fitting Ferodo Racing pads to the rear, or just put new standard ones in, Ferodo do DS2500 and DS3000 for the rear. FCP815(H/R)
Going to put DS3000's in the front FPR216R for AP5000 calipers

[Graham]

I tend to stick with the same compound f&r unless I have a problem I'm Fruitbat.g to cure

[Guillotine]

3000s gave me less feel.
Also took longer to get to temp.
IMHO

[ctsdave]

We use lesser compound on the rear - we did try standard but it burnt them rather quickly lol... I get good feel with no feel and they get up to temp quick enough.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Guillotine said:

3000s gave me less feel.
Also took longer to get to temp.
IMHO

Andy was that front or rear,

maybe worth going 2500 Rear and 3000's front, I'm sure I've currently got 3000's front, but will check.
Rears did get close to overheating last time out, so going to adjust the bias, but at least I know the rears working and getting upto temp.

[Graham]

iirc We used 2500's all round.. never managed to overheat the rears, well not without leaving the line locker on.

[Number 7]

Although it's not a racer, I've used DS3000 and DS2500 front and rear in my 400SE, including trackdays. The former are out and out race pads, significantly higher coefficient of grip than the 2500's, felt great on track, ok on the road. The downside was that they chew rotors, and do squeal a bit. The high wear is I believe as a result of the high metallic content (they are incredibly hard) but also because on the road, you can't get them fully up to temperature. The 2500's I've been using for about 4 years fornt and rear, and work fine on track and road, although not as grippy on track. I would keep them matched front and rear, and certainly not put the 3000's on the rear only, which will encourage end-swapping under braking (done that on the road with that combo, fortunately without damage).

[Guillotine]

TVRleigh_BBWR said:

Guillotine said:

3000s gave me less feel.
Also took longer to get to temp.
IMHO

Andy was that front or rear,

maybe worth going 2500 Rear and 3000's front, I'm sure I've currently got 3000's front, but will check.
Rears did get close to overheating last time out, so going to adjust the bias, but at least I know the rears working and getting upto temp.

All round...I'd also say keep the same all round.
Rotor size/pistons should determine brake balance.

should also mention that I had servo (...pas..leather...lecky windows...;) )

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Number 7 said:

Although it's not a racer, I've used DS3000 and DS2500 front and rear in my 400SE, including trackdays. The former are out and out race pads, significantly higher coefficient of grip than the 2500's, felt great on track, ok on the road. The downside was that they chew rotors, and do squeal a bit. The high wear is I believe as a result of the high metallic content (they are incredibly hard) but also because on the road, you can't get them fully up to temperature. The 2500's I've been using for about 4 years fornt and rear, and work fine on track and road, although not as grippy on track. I would keep them matched front and rear, and certainly not put the 3000's on the rear only, which will encourage end-swapping under braking (done that on the road with that combo, fortunately without damage).

Thanks for the info, I was thinking of using 3000 Front 2500 Rear not the other way round.
I'll check what I have on the front, and get the same all round.
Its only for track use so squeal and wear and getting them upto temp are not a problem.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Guillotine said:

Stuff and
Rotor size/pistons should determine brake balance.

Well not always easy to change, it's not going to be easy to go bigger on the front (running AP5000-PRO 4 pots with 305 disc's), or smaller on the back (Standard inboard Jag), plus the car is fitted with a bias adjuster, so going to be easier to just adjust more bias to the front, as said not the ideal solution, but better than having the rear overheat, esp now I'm pushing the car more and more as I'm getting used to the car.

[Graham]

with 305's up front im surprised your overheating the rears, especially as all the bias valve does is restrict a bit of flow to the rear. are you sure there isnt a different underlying problem, i.e. sticking caliper or the diff overheating..


I've been considering ditching the std pedal box and servo and going un assisted with a proper bias pedal box, so i can easily adjust balance and slave size.

If the bias was wrong on the car I'd expect you to be locking or snatching one end or other.. especially with the larger and much much better brakes on the front.


might be worth doing some straight line brake testing, with someone watching or videoing the car. see which end locks up first and wind off the valve to the rear until both ends lock together.

But remember good dry bias setup will not be the best for a wet track.


You can always duct air to the diff and the rear calipers especially on the coupe..


its not unknown for anoverheating diff to heat soak the inboard disks on a wedge / jag

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Graham said:

with 305's up front im surprised your overheating the rears, especially as all the bias valve does is restrict a bit of flow to the rear. are you sure there isnt a different underlying problem, i.e. sticking caliper or the diff overheating..


I've been considering ditching the std pedal box and servo and going un assisted with a proper bias pedal box, so i can easily adjust balance and slave size.

If the bias was wrong on the car I'd expect you to be locking or snatching one end or other.. especially with the larger and much much better brakes on the front.


might be worth doing some straight line brake testing, with someone watching or videoing the car. see which end locks up first and wind off the valve to the rear until both ends lock together.

But remember good dry bias setup will not be the best for a wet track.


You can always duct air to the diff and the rear calipers especially on the coupe..


its not unknown for anoverheating diff to heat soak the inboard disks on a wedge / jag

I have been thinking about fitting a pedal box also, but it's got other things to sort 1st.

I've only locked the car up one and the front did lock up 1st.

The rear did not overheat as such, just last round at oulton once I came it the rear was a bit smoky, probably due to having nylocks on the rears. but does mean I'm getting close to the limit. I do have the standard ducting from the rear windows to rear brakes.
I know someone did design some floor mounted to divert the air flow.

Maybe my driving style as last time I had my 400SE on the track, I overheated rears on that.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

I need to take the rear apart to change the wheel bearing, and replace the UJ's so will strip the calipers to make sure there not sticking, I have a spare set of pistons and seals, as I got 2 sets when I did the 400SE.

As siad it been fine all season, just the last race, and only a little bit, and I did push the car harder than I ever had before.

Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Friday 21st January 11:48

[Graham]

My taz doesnt have any ducting to the diff or rear brakes, without issue, although I do seem to be gentle on brakes as far as wear goes anyway.


quite often smoke from the rear is the bearings getting hot from either overheating brakes or diff melting the bearing grease.