Possibly silly question re distributor cap

[Chris99]

This might be a bit basic but can you get the distributor cap off without removing the pipe to the swirl(?) tank?

On my '99 450 there's virtually no clearance.

Thanks

Chris

[Al 450]

Yes no problem at all.

[Big Al.]

No Problem on my 98 4ltr. IIRC.

[paulathome]

It may depend on how the last person who changed the cap fitted the HT leads. When I first got mine some numpty had run the HT leads either side of the swirl pot pipe and made it very difficult to move the dizzy one way or the other.
If this is the case then remove each lead individually, re-route and then refit. Don't remove the
bloody lot and then get them mixed up
After that the cap should come off quite easily.
Paul.

[Hedgehopper]

Yes it will come off with a bit of a wiggle. Make sure the inside of the cap doesn't catch and pull off the brass contact on the rotor arm should you pull too hard. One reason why you should only use a genuine Lucas arm, they are much stronger in this respect.

[Simon says]

Hedgehopper said:

Yes it will come off with a bit of a wiggle. Make sure the inside of the cap doesn't catch and pull off the brass contact on the rotor arm should you pull too hard. One reason why you should only use a genuine Lucas arm, they are much stronger in this respect.

Be just as careful refitting too that you don't break off the carbon centre brush in the centre of the diz cap that will give you a whole host of strange running problems seen more of these over the years than I care to remember

[Chris99]

Thanks all,

I just thought I'd double check before I tried too hard. It does seem to be quite tight but looking at it again I think if I take of the lead from the coil first that will help.

I just want to clean it up to see if that helps with a shunting problem at 2,000-2,200 rpm.

[Hedgehopper]

Many Chims and Griffs have problems with shunting in the rpm range you mention. There are pages and pages of threads about this problem, most of them recommending a plenum spacer plate to increase its volume.

Whilst my car was at Dulfords,for other work, they noticed that the vacuum advance assembly on the side of the distributor had come loose, refitting this does seem to have alleviated the shunting somewhat....I think. Worth a check a check anyway.

[Chris99]

Thanks Hedgehopper,

I've been trawling the forums and it does seem to be a fairly well documented problem!

I had the car over at Austec on the rolling road and they found a problem with the tune resistor. Changing this seemed to cure the shunting for about 100 miles then it gradually came back. Also, the rev counter is now bouncing when it shunts so I'm tending to think my problem might be on the ignition side.

I'm going to get full service done in a month or so and hopefully this will sort it out. If not I'll be looking at the plenum spacer and/or an ECU remap.

[Al 450]

Check your coil connections if you have issues, the spade connectors can come loose over time. TVR Power do a chip that seems to help the shunting issues as well, did on mine anyway.

[Chris99]

Thanks Al,

Had another look and found the vacuum advance pipe had come off. NOt had a chance ot run her with it reconnected but fingers crossed it might be as simple as this.

[Chris99]

Just a quick update:

I got Austec to do a full service and also change the (tired looking) plug leads, coil, dist cap, and rotor.

I went for the red Magnacor leads (pure vanity - they match the hoses).

The car now runs sweetly from 1,200 rpm to 6,000 and the 2,200 shunting is totally gone.