how much body flex

[JonathanT]

I've got a really creaky roof which seems to be caused by the rear hoop moving against the roof panel. It does this over uneven roads and is particularly noticable when one corner is loaded up more than the others (like when I back out of my drive or go over speed bumps).

So, how much flex in the body and chassis is "normal" or should I start to worry my car will fall apart soon?

[Barreti]

Have you checked out your chassis and in particular the outriggers recently?

The body is attached to the ends of the chassis behind the fuel tank and by the radiator, then bolted through the floor to the outrigger corner plates in half a dozen places each side.

So if your outriggers are shot it could allow the body to move - only a bit though I would have thought.

[Chassis 33]

As Barreti says check the out riggers. I got a fright a while back with the nose chopped of the racer body the lack of front end weight has caused the body to close up around the doors. It's not terribly stiff unless its bolted to the chassis and if the chassis is rotten you'll be in trouble

Regards
Iain

[spend]

Are you sure it's not just the roof struts that are the problem?

[dbv8]

I never had any bodywork issues and my outriggers were completely shot!

[JonathanT]

The outriggers were replaced about 18 months ago and it's been "looked at" by two different garages subsquently who tell me that the chassis is "sound" so I'm kinda hoping they're ok. If they are, then my original question remains - if I load up the corners differently, should I expect some flex in the chassis that would then cause the body/hoop/roof to flex.

The roof struts are tight but I'll double check them anyways.

Edited by JonathanT on Thursday 27th January 14:31

[dbv8]

Talking of 'flex'.
When i had my wedge 400SE, the roof panel design was rubbish.
One day as i got to 120 with all windows shut there was an almighty 'POP WOOSH' as the panel popped off the car. I could see it flipping about 50 foot into the air in the mirror and it landed on the opposite side of the dual carriageway.

I hope my Chim holds together better when i am doing 170 at vmax.

[Barreti]

Don't count on it. I 'lost' the roof panel off my Griff on my way to BT&P one year as we hit approx 100 leptons - its how I became friends with TVR Moneypit (hello Frazer ) who was following me and watched it all happen

It is worth checking the roof struts, and the bolts which hold the rear foldable roof section to the car.

[Johno]

Barreti said:

It is worth checking the roof struts, and the bolts which hold the rear foldable roof section to the car.

This . . .

The roof struts give it the 'pressure' fit and the hinge bolts are M8 dome head allen bolts which have spacers through the FG of the hoop and to align the roof hoop. If these are loose or the spacers have moved the rear hoop can move left to right and front to rear, which will neagte some of the pressure applied via the struts.

It's also far from uncommon that the roof hoop cracks about 1-2 inched above the hinge point, and although not immediately obvious will get worse over time, often held together by roof material and leather lining. Not normally evident quickly on Chimaeras though, due to the rarity of the roof actually being removed

Additionally have a close look at the seals, often they'll split at the windscreen corners which will reduce their effectiveness. Surprising how much differece you will find when the new seal is applied to getting the roof panel in due to near tighter tolerances ..

[900T-R]

Johno said:

. Not normally evident quickly on Chimaeras though, due to the rarity of the soft roof part actually being up

Sorted that one for you there