Door buttons dont work
Discussion
On my drivers side door, neither buttons work any longer!
Before i drive all the way up to see Mr Baker, does anyone have any ideas?
The control box in the boot makes a slight click when buttons are pressed, so i guess buttons themselves are ok.
The window doesn't drop and solenoid doesn't clonk.
I'm not sure if its related but the mirror joystick doesn't work either. It did when i adjusted mirrors the day i bought the car but never tried since!
Any ideas please?
ps, ive tried unplugging the box etc but no joy
Before i drive all the way up to see Mr Baker, does anyone have any ideas?
The control box in the boot makes a slight click when buttons are pressed, so i guess buttons themselves are ok.
The window doesn't drop and solenoid doesn't clonk.
I'm not sure if its related but the mirror joystick doesn't work either. It did when i adjusted mirrors the day i bought the car but never tried since!
Any ideas please?
ps, ive tried unplugging the box etc but no joy
I'd say, with my vast knowledge of all things mechanical and auto electrical 
one or more wires in your driver's door are toast. Easy option would be to take the door card off and have a poke about/wiggle some wires (my preferred option) and see if it comes back to life. I had this problem several times, in the end I had Austec replace all the wiring in the door and now it's A OK (including the bonus of super fast windy up window 
)
If you fancy a drive up to just south of Horsham Sunday afternoon I could help (OMG, did I really say that out loud?) or at least show you what I mean.
Other option would be to do all of the above with someone who actually knows what they are doing
one or more wires in your driver's door are toast. Easy option would be to take the door card off and have a poke about/wiggle some wires (my preferred option) and see if it comes back to life. I had this problem several times, in the end I had Austec replace all the wiring in the door and now it's A OK (including the bonus of super fast windy up window )If you fancy a drive up to just south of Horsham Sunday afternoon I could help (OMG, did I really say that out loud?) or at least show you what I mean.
Other option would be to do all of the above with someone who actually knows what they are doing
From another thread:
I would be more inclined to go for bad connections, are your windows working at all?
You need to test from source all the way through each circuit with a multimeter, the reed switch would cause a problem but not with everything as you are describing. wd40 alone isnt good enough. The connections need to be cleaned up with some decent contact cleaner. Its surprising how corroded/deposited the connections become.
Worst case scenario is that you fried the box last week when you were swapping that switch!
A new control box is approx £250 from a breakers
steviejasp said:
Ive worked it out. If anybody needs to know in future its black to blue,black to yellow, orange/white to blue, red/white to red
Its all becoming clear I would be more inclined to go for bad connections, are your windows working at all?
You need to test from source all the way through each circuit with a multimeter, the reed switch would cause a problem but not with everything as you are describing. wd40 alone isnt good enough. The connections need to be cleaned up with some decent contact cleaner. Its surprising how corroded/deposited the connections become.
Worst case scenario is that you fried the box last week when you were swapping that switch!
A new control box is approx £250 from a breakers
Onzlouk said:
Its all becoming clear
I would be more inclined to go for bad connections, are your windows working at all?
You need to test from source all the way through each circuit with a multimeter, the reed switch would cause a problem but not with everything as you are describing. wd40 alone isnt good enough. The connections need to be cleaned up with some decent contact cleaner. Its surprising how corroded/deposited the connections become.
Worst case scenario is that you fried the box last week when you were swapping that switch!
A new control box is approx £250 from a breakers
Hi LozI would be more inclined to go for bad connections, are your windows working at all?
You need to test from source all the way through each circuit with a multimeter, the reed switch would cause a problem but not with everything as you are describing. wd40 alone isnt good enough. The connections need to be cleaned up with some decent contact cleaner. Its surprising how corroded/deposited the connections become.
Worst case scenario is that you fried the box last week when you were swapping that switch!
A new control box is approx £250 from a breakers
Windows are working fine from the buttons on the dash.
The problem existed before i changed the switch so hopefully box is ok.
(the original switch always worked, i just changed it because the top cover had come off)
The passenger door and boot are fine.
Carl Baker fitted a new alarm to it last week and it was fine when i got home. Key fobs lock and set alarm etc. Car was filthy when i got home so i washed it with my new pressure washer. I made sure i didn't get too close or do any sensitive areas. May be i wasn't careful enough? (Did try to do the undrneath and wheel arches etc)
Ive ordered a can of contact cleaner and a new reed switch from RS, should be here tomorrow. Im not particularly clued up on electrickery. If that doesn't sort it, i suppose a trip back up to Carl is in order!
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