what about this one

[redmatt]

after my bad sunday drive in the sun and my splutter home, i took some of the advice from you guys
1 got petrol (just in case)
2 changed cap
3 changed rotor arm
4 new fuel filter
5 put back old sparks (cleaned up first)(just in case i had got the wrong ones)
6 checked the connector from distributor to air unit
7 made sure i had spark
8 threw a few tools around
9 checked all the conectors to the coil (that bit i did for fun)
10 oh and soaked all the water out of the boot

guess what ! the car started, ticked over lovely for 20 mins, reved lovely, sounded great drove up the road at 10/15 miles an hour because it wouldn't drive over that, just seemed to cut when reved, eased off gas it drove fine put me foot down again, cut out eased off then drove fine again, what youll think of that sorry if this story is getting boring but id love to get this resolved a beautiful red convertible driving at 10 miles an hour just isnt good

[stainless_steve]

Thats a bit of a bugger,are you a member of the AA?

[blaineuk]

have you checked the flap is moving/free in the air flow meter

[AM400]

Fuel pressure regulator?

Andy

[redmatt]

bumped into a bloke from rac, they wont look at tvr stuff he says that it has to go to dealer, aa is probably the same. air flow meter is moving freely, any tests for the pressure regulator, or shall i test with a lit match

[jim meehan]

Ask your local tuning people to put it on crypton tune test computer - that rac guy you 'bumped into',doesnt sound too optimistic / helpful. Did you buy him a pint? Had he had a bad one?!

>> Edited by jim meehan on Wednesday 28th April 22:31

[AM400]

redmatt said:

bumped into a bloke from rac, they wont look at tvr stuff he says that it has to go to dealer, aa is probably the same. air flow meter is moving freely, any tests for the pressure regulator, or shall i test with a lit match

A lit match will let you know if fuels getting through, but I would put a pressure gauge in the line to be on the safe side

Andy

[jmorgan]

Got a kink in the fuel line around the tank/swirl pot/filter?

On the subject of plugs. Not your problem I think but just cleaning fouled ones are not enough. Bit of cooking required. I did mine on the house rad for an hour (winter so not a problem) but told a gas iron with a burner attachment would do or a lighter. Thought the lighter would soot things up? Anyhow, sorted me problem. Fouled plugs that is.

[jchase]

Presumably the stalling is due to under-fueling ?

It is possible the vacuum pipe into the fuel pressure regulator it is not working. Putting the engine under load removes manifold vacuum and the fuel line pressure should rise to maintain fuel delivery proportional to injector timings. It might be worth a quick look to see if it has come off, or has split, or has a tiny family of earwigs living inside it...

Hope this helps.

-Jim

[wedg1e]

ECU coolant temperature sensor? Either duff or poor connection. It's the one behind the easy to remove one, at the front top l/h side of the inlet manifold.
About £12 from Landrover dealers.

Ian

[streaky]

redmatt said:

bumped into a bloke from rac, they wont look at tvr stuff he says that it has to go to dealer, aa is probably the same.

Humm! I wonder whether the refer Range Rover owners to their local distributor? - Streaky

[dickymint]

wedg1e said:

ECU coolant temperature sensor? Either duff or poor connection. It's the one behind the easy to remove one, at the front top l/h side of the inlet manifold. About £12 from Landrover dealers. Ian

would be my best guess too. It may be you are in fact overfuelling due to this sensor.
Take out a plug and inspect (do this before you restart to check if its wet).
I had coolant temperature go on the 350. It convinced the ECU that it was in Siberia and needed twice as much fuel!!!

[terence]

May be worth checking fuel pump connectors. I had an interesting problem with mine after it had been stood. From cold start engine would fire up run up to 1000 rpm splutter and die. If I opened the flapper manually I could hear the fuel pump running, and fuel circulating in the system, all the voltages checked out at the ECU. However, it did seem like a fuel starvation problem. After pulling on the spade connectors on the fuel pump it fired up as normal. With the flapper wedged open, ignition on but engine not running if I pulled on the fuel pump connectors I could hear the pump noise change pitch. Conclusion, low voltage at pump, due to poor connection, resulting in reduced fuel pressure and hence under fueling to the extent that insuficient fuel was being delivered to cope with a cold start. I cleaned up the connectors and she seems fine now, though that may be tempting fate as I have MOT tomorrow morning.

[redmatt]

Thanks guys you have given me alot to work on, just now got to find time to do it, (the rac man was just about to have his lunch this may have been the problem) (i found loads of dead flies no earwigs yet !) i will keep you all posted as to my progress thanks again

[digga951]

This may be a long shot, but it made my 350i break down last year with similar symptoms. If you take off the dizzy cap and rotor arm, and then unscrew the protective plate from the top of the dizzy, you will expose all the moving parts. Make sure the spring which controls the vacuum advance is attached and working properly. My car would start up ok, sit there at idle for ages, but as soon as I tried to drive it the thing would miss and splutter. Switch the engine off and back on again, and it would idle nicely, but then do the same thing when I tried to drive it.

Only takes a couple of minutes to check, so just thought I would mention it.

Dan.

[redmatt]

dan sounds like very simular symptons and i think ill check as it sounds simple