Discussion
Now my probelms have gone away ref the starting of my LS7 (thanks to all your suggestions), I have been reviewing the engine compartment.
I have replace the existing Holley-style LP pump with a new Gerotor pump (Holley HP 125), and wow! is it quiet!
A couple of quick questions which I hope someone can answer:
1. Oil reservoir - How high or low should this be clamped in its bracket? Does this have any impact on the engine levels?
2. Since there is no dip-stick, is there any rule-of-thumb on either the amount of oil is added to the reservoir, or the level it should come to in the reservoir? How do you know if any is used and needs replacing with no dip-stick? (sounds like a dumb question to me..but I admit, don't know the answer)
3. I ran the engine up to about 95 degrees yesterday, but still no fans coming on, so a bit nervous to leave it still building heat in case of boiling.
I know the fans work if I short the sensor, but obviously the temperature is measured at the engine end, and the sensor is quite a lot cooler I guess since it is a million miles away at the front of the car. Would it not be better to have the fan sensor at the engine end of things?
cheers
Keith
I have replace the existing Holley-style LP pump with a new Gerotor pump (Holley HP 125), and wow! is it quiet!
A couple of quick questions which I hope someone can answer:
1. Oil reservoir - How high or low should this be clamped in its bracket? Does this have any impact on the engine levels?
2. Since there is no dip-stick, is there any rule-of-thumb on either the amount of oil is added to the reservoir, or the level it should come to in the reservoir? How do you know if any is used and needs replacing with no dip-stick? (sounds like a dumb question to me..but I admit, don't know the answer)
3. I ran the engine up to about 95 degrees yesterday, but still no fans coming on, so a bit nervous to leave it still building heat in case of boiling.
I know the fans work if I short the sensor, but obviously the temperature is measured at the engine end, and the sensor is quite a lot cooler I guess since it is a million miles away at the front of the car. Would it not be better to have the fan sensor at the engine end of things?
cheers
Keith
CBS do a lower temp sensor that is a direct replacement for the one in the radiator. I fitted this on the basis that the rad is a long way from motor and didnt want accidental overheating. It works fine.....only ever comes on when sat in traffic...Judging from the temp guage and the switch spec I reckon I see between 5 and 10 deg difference between rad and motor.
ROWDYRENAULT said:
The supply tank an be mounted at any height ithin the engin compartment. ith the engine unning the tank should be about 2/3 full no more than that. Lee
Thats interesting!Currently my tank has been clamped as far up as it can go..ie the bottom ring-clamp is very close/touching the bottom oil outlet back to the engine, so the top neck/ filler of the tank is close to the underneath of the 'zig-zag' of the rear bulkhead. The reason for the question was that originally I added 7-8lts of oil (can't remember exactly, but somewhere I saw a recommended number of ltrs for an LS7), and the pressure is fine running at about 80 cold to 65 hot. TheN I took a look inside the tank and could see the oil level way down below the gauze baffle. Now I know that the oil cooler rad and the fact I am using -12 lines could use-up some extra, but since this is the first time I have experienced one of these engines, I wanted to be sure how to assess the correct oil level in the tank and how to keep an eye on it!
I assume that with a tank configuration like these the level in the tank is not so critical...provided there is a reasonable amount in it? Obviously without the old dip-stick thingy, one cannot see very easily if the engine is using oil! Not that it should! Soem sort of site-gauge would have been useful on the side of the tank, but now you are going to tell me I am being silly!
cheers keith
Gulf LS3 said:
just use the ecm to control the fans through the Ultima relay, the ecm will not switch them on till 100 degrees f but that can be changed by accessing the ecm.
Hi Kyle old chap! Tried belling you a few times, but guess you must have been 'whirring' spanners/hammers under a car somewhere! 
OK sounds a good idea,
however I cannot remember ever seeing a wire tail for this, so I would have to work out where (what wire) I can get an output from the GM ECU ????cheers
keith
Mr Pid said:
CBS do a lower temp sensor that is a direct replacement for the one in the radiator. I fitted this on the basis that the rad is a long way from motor and didnt want accidental overheating. It works fine.....only ever comes on when sat in traffic...Judging from the temp guage and the switch spec I reckon I see between 5 and 10 deg difference between rad and motor.
That is another good idea ...I will have a look! Cheers!With all these suggestions and help - its sooo cool!
Edited by V8 Vum on Tuesday 8th February 09:21
Actualy the idea of a site gauge I think is a good one. I have a glass tube that runs up the side of my tank and is open to the tank on both the bottom and the top. I can visualize my oil level without removing the cap. The tube was sourced from a aerospace application. indeed 90% of all oil levels on helicopters either have a tube on the side or glass window in the side of the sump to read the level. Lee
ROWDYRENAULT said:
Actualy the idea of a site gauge I think is a good one. I have a glass tube that runs up the side of my tank and is open to the tank on both the bottom and the top. I can visualize my oil level without removing the cap. The tube was sourced from a aerospace application. indeed 90% of all oil levels on helicopters either have a tube on the side or glass window in the side of the sump to read the level. Lee
Deffo a worthwhile mod IMO then - Suggestion of the month methinks since it got the thumbs up!maybe if we can source some fittings and a length of clear tubing, I can see myself taking the tank off and whizzing it down to my local tig welders!
Not sure about your fan problem but you should always mount your oil tank as low as possible in the car and as stated above run about 2/3rds full. Check it often. A useful thing is a sight level affixed to the outside of the tank (factory tanks have this). It is a clear tube that allows you to see the level of the oil
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