Dropping a twin turbo diesel unit in
Dropping a twin turbo diesel unit in
Author
Discussion

scotty_d

Original Poster:

6,795 posts

223 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
I am not that sadistic ,but I do need some questions answered chaps please hehe .

It’s a 99 4.2 ajp
First one is I am going to drop the engine oil and change from a 10w-40 semi synthetic to the Fuchs pro s 5w-40 fully synthetic my question is do i need to make sure every drop of the old stuff is out I.E from the oil cooler/hoses by draining it down and oil pump before putting the new stuff in? Just thinking about the oil possible congealing ?

Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?

Cheers Scotty

tejr

3,498 posts

193 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
1) Modern oils will 'blend' with eachother, so just drop the oil as usual and fill up with the new stuff.

2) I am thinking of doing this also, though the cable I have will protrude as the PCB board is built into the connector, so I'm thinking of making a cut out then hot gluing the connector to the casing to make it moisture tight again. Then I'll need to re-locate the ECU. Can't see it doing any damage, but the PCB board might be constantly powered, and though the power consumption will be small I'd rather not have any at all. Though I'm not sure on the power consumption part with the ignition off smile

gruffalo

8,150 posts

255 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
scotty_d said:
I am not that sadistic ,but I do need some questions answered chaps please hehe .

It’s a 99 4.2 ajp
First one is I am going to drop the engine oil and change from a 10w-40 semi synthetic to the Fuchs pro s 5w-40 fully synthetic my question is do i need to make sure every drop of the old stuff is out I.E from the oil cooler/hoses by draining it down and oil pump before putting the new stuff in? Just thinking about the oil possible congealing ?

Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?

Cheers Scotty
Please remember to fill the oil filter with oil before re attaching as they do not self prime on a an AJP and getting pressure back can be a pain, also use a good filter as cheap one have caused problems for people in the past.

scotty_d

Original Poster:

6,795 posts

223 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Thanks for the info guys i bought my service kit from TVR power so it should be a good one. I have the service PDF as well and read the part about doing the filter quickly and filling it up too.

Cheers again.

cerbfan

1,198 posts

256 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
I think you should check the engine oil as well as fully synthetic oil is not recommended in the AJP and common wisdom seems to be that Semi-synthetic is the way to go. Something about polishing the bores I think.

scotty_d

Original Poster:

6,795 posts

223 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
cerbfan said:
I think you should check the engine oil as well as fully synthetic oil is not recommended in the AJP and common wisdom seems to be that Semi-synthetic is the way to go. Something about polishing the bores I think.
I took the advice from opie oils on this one also how much oil does the engine take?

SimonSparrow

1,599 posts

291 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
scotty_d said:
I am not that sadistic ,but I do need some questions answered chaps please hehe .

Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?

Cheers Scotty
Did this several years ago, I routed the connector to just below where the radio was. No issues thus far.

Byker28i

91,557 posts

246 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Alan Jensen did the serial lead on mine. It's got a cut out in the top, but then I think he said it was part of a hairdryer attachment glued over the slot to stop the cable getting caught. It then routes up and around over the carpet, with the end tucked into the dash by the passenger door. Very useful.

Byker28i

91,557 posts

246 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Oh and the oil is what I've used in my car and it loves it. Used to be silkolene pro-s, looks like ribena.

I'd be tempted to put one lot in, run it for a short while then flush and refil with new stuff, as you're changing types. Expensive mind, it takes about 6.5 litres.

shpub

8,507 posts

301 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
I can supply a separate lead that plugs into the main ECU connector that brings out the serial port connections without having to butcher the case.

On the LS transplants I add a 2 M serial lead in this way which can be tucked up into the footwell and plugs straight into a PC without having to access the ECU at all or take it apart.

If there is enough interest, I could make this type of lead available. PM me if you want/are interested in one.

shoggyraminator

255 posts

205 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
You can remove the pins from the D-type plug and push them directly into the board socket allowing you to close the lid. You do have to make sure the pins are well insulated so they don't short on the lid when it's re fitted. Then you can drill a hole in the lid and feed the cable out to where ever you want. I used a screened cable terminated on the box lid just to make sure the cable does not pick up any engine noise, as it's left fully connected.




scotty_d

Original Poster:

6,795 posts

223 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
shoggyraminator said:
You can remove the pins from the D-type plug and push them directly into the board socket allowing you to close the lid. You do have to make sure the pins are well insulated so they don't short on the lid when it's re fitted. Then you can drill a hole in the lid and feed the cable out to where ever you want. I used a screened cable terminated on the box lid just to make sure the cable does not pick up any engine noise, as it's left fully connected.



That what i was going to do just get some heat shrink in

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
Scott

Mine has a cable permanently connected to the ECU - if you had said on Sunday you could have had a look!

scotty_d

Original Poster:

6,795 posts

223 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
tvrgit said:
Scott

Mine has a cable permanently connected to the ECU - if you had said on Sunday you could have had a look!
Hi Andrew

I should have said, DOH! no rush to do the job but i will try and ask you next time i see you in the Cerb if that is ok?

Cheers Scott

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Tuesday 8th February 2011
quotequote all
scotty_d said:
tvrgit said:
Scott

Mine has a cable permanently connected to the ECU - if you had said on Sunday you could have had a look!
Hi Andrew

I should have said, DOH! no rush to do the job but i will try and ask you next time i see you in the Cerb if that is ok?

Cheers Scott
Aye no problem.