Dropping a twin turbo diesel unit in
Discussion
I am not that sadistic ,but I do need some questions answered chaps please
.
It’s a 99 4.2 ajp
First one is I am going to drop the engine oil and change from a 10w-40 semi synthetic to the Fuchs pro s 5w-40 fully synthetic my question is do i need to make sure every drop of the old stuff is out I.E from the oil cooler/hoses by draining it down and oil pump before putting the new stuff in? Just thinking about the oil possible congealing ?
Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?
Cheers Scotty
. It’s a 99 4.2 ajp
First one is I am going to drop the engine oil and change from a 10w-40 semi synthetic to the Fuchs pro s 5w-40 fully synthetic my question is do i need to make sure every drop of the old stuff is out I.E from the oil cooler/hoses by draining it down and oil pump before putting the new stuff in? Just thinking about the oil possible congealing ?
Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?
Cheers Scotty
1) Modern oils will 'blend' with eachother, so just drop the oil as usual and fill up with the new stuff.
2) I am thinking of doing this also, though the cable I have will protrude as the PCB board is built into the connector, so I'm thinking of making a cut out then hot gluing the connector to the casing to make it moisture tight again. Then I'll need to re-locate the ECU. Can't see it doing any damage, but the PCB board might be constantly powered, and though the power consumption will be small I'd rather not have any at all. Though I'm not sure on the power consumption part with the ignition off
2) I am thinking of doing this also, though the cable I have will protrude as the PCB board is built into the connector, so I'm thinking of making a cut out then hot gluing the connector to the casing to make it moisture tight again. Then I'll need to re-locate the ECU. Can't see it doing any damage, but the PCB board might be constantly powered, and though the power consumption will be small I'd rather not have any at all. Though I'm not sure on the power consumption part with the ignition off

scotty_d said:
I am not that sadistic ,but I do need some questions answered chaps please
.
It’s a 99 4.2 ajp
First one is I am going to drop the engine oil and change from a 10w-40 semi synthetic to the Fuchs pro s 5w-40 fully synthetic my question is do i need to make sure every drop of the old stuff is out I.E from the oil cooler/hoses by draining it down and oil pump before putting the new stuff in? Just thinking about the oil possible congealing ?
Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?
Cheers Scotty
Please remember to fill the oil filter with oil before re attaching as they do not self prime on a an AJP and getting pressure back can be a pain, also use a good filter as cheap one have caused problems for people in the past.
. It’s a 99 4.2 ajp
First one is I am going to drop the engine oil and change from a 10w-40 semi synthetic to the Fuchs pro s 5w-40 fully synthetic my question is do i need to make sure every drop of the old stuff is out I.E from the oil cooler/hoses by draining it down and oil pump before putting the new stuff in? Just thinking about the oil possible congealing ?
Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?
Cheers Scotty
cerbfan said:
I think you should check the engine oil as well as fully synthetic oil is not recommended in the AJP and common wisdom seems to be that Semi-synthetic is the way to go. Something about polishing the bores I think.
I took the advice from opie oils on this one also how much oil does the engine take?scotty_d said:
I am not that sadistic ,but I do need some questions answered chaps please
.
Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?
Cheers Scotty
Did this several years ago, I routed the connector to just below where the radio was. No issues thus far.
. Question 2
Can i make up a serial lead and drill a hole in the ECU casing and leave the lead pluged in all the time so i can route it somewhere for quick and easy access?
Cheers Scotty
Alan Jensen did the serial lead on mine. It's got a cut out in the top, but then I think he said it was part of a hairdryer attachment glued over the slot to stop the cable getting caught. It then routes up and around over the carpet, with the end tucked into the dash by the passenger door. Very useful.
I can supply a separate lead that plugs into the main ECU connector that brings out the serial port connections without having to butcher the case.
On the LS transplants I add a 2 M serial lead in this way which can be tucked up into the footwell and plugs straight into a PC without having to access the ECU at all or take it apart.
If there is enough interest, I could make this type of lead available. PM me if you want/are interested in one.
On the LS transplants I add a 2 M serial lead in this way which can be tucked up into the footwell and plugs straight into a PC without having to access the ECU at all or take it apart.
If there is enough interest, I could make this type of lead available. PM me if you want/are interested in one.
You can remove the pins from the D-type plug and push them directly into the board socket allowing you to close the lid. You do have to make sure the pins are well insulated so they don't short on the lid when it's re fitted. Then you can drill a hole in the lid and feed the cable out to where ever you want. I used a screened cable terminated on the box lid just to make sure the cable does not pick up any engine noise, as it's left fully connected.


shoggyraminator said:
You can remove the pins from the D-type plug and push them directly into the board socket allowing you to close the lid. You do have to make sure the pins are well insulated so they don't short on the lid when it's re fitted. Then you can drill a hole in the lid and feed the cable out to where ever you want. I used a screened cable terminated on the box lid just to make sure the cable does not pick up any engine noise, as it's left fully connected.


That what i was going to do just get some heat shrink inscotty_d said:
tvrgit said:
Scott
Mine has a cable permanently connected to the ECU - if you had said on Sunday you could have had a look!
Hi Andrew Mine has a cable permanently connected to the ECU - if you had said on Sunday you could have had a look!
I should have said, DOH! no rush to do the job but i will try and ask you next time i see you in the Cerb if that is ok?
Cheers Scott
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