355 Value for money!
Discussion
Just started looking at F355, as the porsche i want to my desire is akin to financial suicide (gt2 kit, white spray) whereas a red 355 would fulfill my desire just as well....
This particular one seems to be great value...almost too good to be true?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2468583.htm
I asked him a load of questions, he's a dealer but it's his own car and he's had loads of work done to it, so it looks great (from the photos), it's had the big service done on it and has loads of service history. The only thing is the mileage, but then I would sell it on at circa 60k anyway...
Thoughts?
This particular one seems to be great value...almost too good to be true?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2468583.htm
I asked him a load of questions, he's a dealer but it's his own car and he's had loads of work done to it, so it looks great (from the photos), it's had the big service done on it and has loads of service history. The only thing is the mileage, but then I would sell it on at circa 60k anyway...
Thoughts?
It isn't stunningly cheap - it's an early car, above 50,000 miles and why the big budget "restoration"? usually it's buttresses and a front end repaint, not a "major restoration". Mike Wheeler at Rardley would give you an honest appraisal of the car though.
I think that the one that Verdi had for sale - which used to be owned by PHer - is a good value car. 1999, 46000 miles rosso with crema...£33,000. I'd be aiming for one of those later cars if it were me...
I think that the one that Verdi had for sale - which used to be owned by PHer - is a good value car. 1999, 46000 miles rosso with crema...£33,000. I'd be aiming for one of those later cars if it were me...
There was also a well priced 1997 Giallo spyder on PH at £31,500. For some reason, the vendor has just moved the price up to £34,950...slightly odd logic there if you ask me, espeially since he claimed he had 14 people after it a couple of hours after reducing the price to £31,500....but it does seem to be a genuine car, albeit with 8 owners. I've always found it a chore when there are more than 3 or 4 previous owners to contact to verify the mileage with, but I did once trace all 9 owners of a 911 3.2 Carrera, so it can be done!
The yellow spider metioned above is my car. The reason I raised the price is because I was fed up with all the time wasters and realised at £34,950 it's still cheaper than any other spider by 2k+ and I felt maybe genuine buyers would think it was too cheap and they would dismiss it. I've also had no end of people wanting to p/ex and claim their cars are worth 5-10k more than they actually are! I have 2 people coming to view tomorrow but in my opinion, they too could be time wasters until they get their wallets out!
It's without doubt one of the best available but people still want to try and 'rob' it even when it was clearly at a bargain price of £31,500.
It's without doubt one of the best available but people still want to try and 'rob' it even when it was clearly at a bargain price of £31,500.Most cars that are mint will have had the fornt end and the buttresses sprayed. They get tons of chips and the buttresses crack as a matter of course if the car gets driven.
There's a fairly comprehensive buyers guide on here which will give you a fairly decent list of things to look for on a car and which you can do yourself. If all these things check out, then you can proceed to a PPI if you like.
The advice I always give people is that firstly, if you intend to drive it, a well used car is less likely to give you problems than a garage queen. Secondly, a nice clean shiny car isn't an indication of anything. The cosmetic stuff is very cheap and easy to sort out. The mechanical or electrical gremlins can see huge swathes of cash evaoprate, unless you're a competent DIY'er (and even then, parts can be pricey).
So, don't be fooled by a pretty coat of paint.
That said, that particular car appears well priced for an early model.
There's a fairly comprehensive buyers guide on here which will give you a fairly decent list of things to look for on a car and which you can do yourself. If all these things check out, then you can proceed to a PPI if you like.
The advice I always give people is that firstly, if you intend to drive it, a well used car is less likely to give you problems than a garage queen. Secondly, a nice clean shiny car isn't an indication of anything. The cosmetic stuff is very cheap and easy to sort out. The mechanical or electrical gremlins can see huge swathes of cash evaoprate, unless you're a competent DIY'er (and even then, parts can be pricey).
So, don't be fooled by a pretty coat of paint.
That said, that particular car appears well priced for an early model.
My 355 had been doing about 300 miles a year, and at irregular intervals (taken out once every 3-4 months) before I bought it, and I had a few problems with it at first.
Since then though it gets used a lot more, and very regular. I try to use it at least once a week. Even if its just a couple of miles. I'll go do the weekly shop at Morrisons in it or something. But since using it like this its been so much more reliable!
Basically, its better to use them, so dont let milage put you off if its been cared for. Its actually better for it!
Since then though it gets used a lot more, and very regular. I try to use it at least once a week. Even if its just a couple of miles. I'll go do the weekly shop at Morrisons in it or something. But since using it like this its been so much more reliable!
Basically, its better to use them, so dont let milage put you off if its been cared for. Its actually better for it!
Legacywr said:
The OP car is overpriced IMO!
Good to have some more input from someone. What would you pay for it then and what do you think is the right price for a non-airbag model? What are your views on M2.7 versus 5.2 as well? Always good to get some more perspective from others who know the market.Regarding 2.7 v 5.2, personally I would go for as later one as possible as they are improved on over the years (not just engine management but brakes etc.) but the most important thing is obviously condition, a spot on earlier model would be better than a rough later one.
An expert inspection is a must including a compression/leak down check.
Lots of good information on the F355 provided by PH members here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Also try Club Scuderia or Fchat forums.
An expert inspection is a must including a compression/leak down check.
Lots of good information on the F355 provided by PH members here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Also try Club Scuderia or Fchat forums.
2.7 has a horse or two more and marginally better torque due to less restriction of breathing, and as a consequence the sound is slightly more raw (read better IMO). For these reasons I was happy to find a 2.7 (not that I wouldn't have bought a 5.2).
Most people want a later car due to worry of valve guide issues being more common place on the earlier cars but cars upto 98 were affected and by now, any with the issue will likely have had it sorted.
As for the brakes, they need uprating regardless of year IMO.
Just my 2p.
Most people want a later car due to worry of valve guide issues being more common place on the earlier cars but cars upto 98 were affected and by now, any with the issue will likely have had it sorted.
As for the brakes, they need uprating regardless of year IMO.
Just my 2p.
Speaking of brakes, I know it's been said before, but don't fall into the trap of buying the "upgraded" standard cross drilled 355 discs for improved performance. If you prefer the look, that's fine, but otherwise it's money down the pan and they're more likely to crack.
Vented discs are a much better option I am reliably informed
Vented discs are a much better option I am reliably informed
Jonty355 said:
What have you done for upgrading brakes? Mine are ready for an overhaul, but while I'm at it I was considering an upgrade. Do you have any suggestions?
Without going to extremes of a big brake kit you can get excellent stopping power from keeping OEM discs (no need to upgrade unless doing serious track work as there is no gain initially, only after pounding round a few times and the cooling advantages of grooves help, as mentioned drilled are pointless and are likely to crack) and uprating the pads & fluid. Not sure what the fluid is off the top of my head (speak to Geoff at Shiltech, it's the same stuff they use on all the race cars they prep) and I have gone for PAGID RS Black Ceramic. There are various different pads that will massively improve the stopping power (lots of info on Club Scuderia and Geoff is an excellent person to speak to on the subject), just depends on what you are after personally.
Hope this helps and let me know what you decide to do.
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