Alternator or 100A fuse woes?
Discussion
Finally, I've had a break down.
Driving along the M3 to work this morning the car slowed, spluttered and conked out on the hard shoulder.
When trying to start there was no response - no fuel pump and no starter noises.
Before the car conked out the wipers were running very slowly and the radio had started playing up.
The RAC were called and the patrol man was able to jump start the car with a booster. He put the booster back in his van
and we set off towards work. However, the same problem happened and I finished the journey with the booster pack in the passenger foot well.
The RAC man suspects the alternator.
I've just been out and have started the car once so there's some charge in my battery. I imagine this came from the booster pack.
Looking at various posts here I see people have had problems with the 100A fuse. Is it possible for this to fail and still be able to start the car?
Driving along the M3 to work this morning the car slowed, spluttered and conked out on the hard shoulder.
When trying to start there was no response - no fuel pump and no starter noises.
Before the car conked out the wipers were running very slowly and the radio had started playing up.
The RAC were called and the patrol man was able to jump start the car with a booster. He put the booster back in his van
and we set off towards work. However, the same problem happened and I finished the journey with the booster pack in the passenger foot well.
The RAC man suspects the alternator.
I've just been out and have started the car once so there's some charge in my battery. I imagine this came from the booster pack.
Looking at various posts here I see people have had problems with the 100A fuse. Is it possible for this to fail and still be able to start the car?
My question is answered this this thread.
Yes, the car will still start and run even if the fuse is blown. The batter just won't charge...
Yes, the car will still start and run even if the fuse is blown. The batter just won't charge...
bsdnazz said:
My question is answered ...
Yes, the car will still start and run even if the fuse is blown. The batter just won't charge...
Just to add to the confusion here's a link to another thread. See Spend's comments on the second page. It seems that if you have a second 100A fuse in the passenger footwell it may cause a loss of all electrics if it fails, but it depends how it is wired.Yes, the car will still start and run even if the fuse is blown. The batter just won't charge...
Had exactly this on the way back from Brands last December, wipers slowed, lights dimmed and then cut out!
Ever been towed back down country lanes, in the dark, no headlights, short tow strap, can't see over, (or under) my lifted landy, all at speeds of up to 50 mph
!
Sorry, I digress, cause was a broken 100amp fuse next to the sump, (couldn't see the break untill it was removed).
Ever been towed back down country lanes, in the dark, no headlights, short tow strap, can't see over, (or under) my lifted landy, all at speeds of up to 50 mph
!Sorry, I digress, cause was a broken 100amp fuse next to the sump, (couldn't see the break untill it was removed).
Harrytsg said:
On the basis of your woes I have just bought some 100a fuses, glad your back and running.
Me too!I had a chat with the RAC man about alternators. The RAC man said that they don't like to run without a load.
I don't know when the fuse or the alternator failed so can't say if an alternator fault blew the fuse or running with a blow fuse meant the alternator ran without a load for too long and failed.
I think I might get one of these meters which will tell me if the battery is charging.
bsdnazz said:
I think I might get one of these meters which will tell me if the battery is charging.
Or, you could fit an ammeter?Tyre Tread said:
Or, you could fit an ammeter?
I could. My personal preference is for a voltmeter as this is does not involve putting something in series with the existing high current charging circuit. A volt meter can be wired across the battery terminals and protected with a low current fuse.bsdnazz said:
I could. My personal preference is for a voltmeter as this is does not involve putting something in series with the existing high current charging circuit. A volt meter can be wired across the battery terminals and protected with a low current fuse.
True bit the one you showed was an attach it when you have a problem diagnostic type whereas whether you fit an ammeter or voltmeter it will need to be fitted in everyday use to be of any benefit.A Voltmeter will tell you that you are about to lose all electrical power just at the point that you lose it whereas an ammeter should give you ample warning that a problem exists with plenty of opportunity to avoid being stranded.
Tyre Tread said:
True bit the one you showed was an attach it when you have a problem diagnostic type whereas whether you fit an ammeter or voltmeter it will need to be fitted in everyday use to be of any benefit.
A Voltmeter will tell you that you are about to lose all electrical power just at the point that you lose it whereas an ammeter should give you ample warning that a problem exists with plenty of opportunity to avoid being stranded.
For a full picture an ammeter and a voltmeter are needed. However, as I don't want to mess with high currents I'm sticking to volt meters.A Voltmeter will tell you that you are about to lose all electrical power just at the point that you lose it whereas an ammeter should give you ample warning that a problem exists with plenty of opportunity to avoid being stranded.
I don't see why the meter could not be connected all the time. There is the issue of the meter's current draw when the car is turned off but, hopefully, compared to the other items drawing current it won't be too much!
When the car is turned off the volt meter will display the battery voltage and when the car is turned on it will display the alternator output voltage if the alternator is working and connected to the battery.
An ammeter will show the charging current but won't tell me anything about the battery condition when the car is turned off.
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