Discussion
Chapppers said:
Alright guys,
I've got the car out for the first time in a couple of weeks and noticed a lot more surface rust around the exhaust and various bits, is there anything you recommend to keep it in check?
The only way to keep it in check is by wrapping it in some material like thisI've got the car out for the first time in a couple of weeks and noticed a lot more surface rust around the exhaust and various bits, is there anything you recommend to keep it in check?
Mike.
Dont hammerite it you animal !!
This chassis paint is the best and is brushed on but flows out to a lovely finish whilst giving maximum protection.
www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8202&frostProductName=POR15%20Chassis%20Coat%20Black%20(473ml)&catID=24&frostCat=Painting&frostSubCat=POR-15&subCatID=37
Steve
This chassis paint is the best and is brushed on but flows out to a lovely finish whilst giving maximum protection.
www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8202&frostProductName=POR15%20Chassis%20Coat%20Black%20(473ml)&catID=24&frostCat=Painting&frostSubCat=POR-15&subCatID=37
Steve
tting Jesus. Yeah the Hammerite was a joke, I'll have a look at that chassis paint although from Tux's picture it seems like the majority is hidden 
Have a look at this thread for real rust pictures Chappers.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Hi Guys,
I,ve just completed the exercise of removing rear engine bay floor as the heat reflective material had degraded where the silencer box passes very close to,having replaced all the material on the floor and all the wraps around the vertical and horizontal chassis members, I then rubbed down all the subframe to remove all the surface rust on the subframe, it was was solid (remember mine was the very low mileage yellow one I asked your advice on ) Anyway having spent a few years restoring classic motorcycles I found the longest lasting and most durable finish being Hammerite rust proof undercoat followed by Hammerite SMOOTH satin black, (unless you powdercoat/ stove enamel). I then replaced all the self taps with stainless steel and sprayed inside the rails with waxoyl.The finish is A1, however after giving it it's first wash at weekend I noticed water pooling in the "V" sections of the subframe on the surface of the heat mat. my first thought was to drill 2 small holes in the floor pan in this area, anybody overcome this ptoblem in a more technical less Heath Robinson way ! ?
P.S.
Still smiling after nearly 3 months of ownership these cars are amazing can't wait untill next month when it goes back on the road.
I,ve just completed the exercise of removing rear engine bay floor as the heat reflective material had degraded where the silencer box passes very close to,having replaced all the material on the floor and all the wraps around the vertical and horizontal chassis members, I then rubbed down all the subframe to remove all the surface rust on the subframe, it was was solid (remember mine was the very low mileage yellow one I asked your advice on ) Anyway having spent a few years restoring classic motorcycles I found the longest lasting and most durable finish being Hammerite rust proof undercoat followed by Hammerite SMOOTH satin black, (unless you powdercoat/ stove enamel). I then replaced all the self taps with stainless steel and sprayed inside the rails with waxoyl.The finish is A1, however after giving it it's first wash at weekend I noticed water pooling in the "V" sections of the subframe on the surface of the heat mat. my first thought was to drill 2 small holes in the floor pan in this area, anybody overcome this ptoblem in a more technical less Heath Robinson way ! ?
P.S.
Still smiling after nearly 3 months of ownership these cars are amazing can't wait untill next month when it goes back on the road.
[quote=Haydn W]Hi Guys,
I,ve just completed the exercise of removing rear engine bay floor as the it's first wash at weekend I noticed water pooling in the "V" sections of the subframe on the surface of the heat mat. my first thought was to drill 2 small holes in the floor pan in this area, anybody overcome this ptoblem in a more technical less Heath Robinson way ! ?
Sorry i cant't supply a more technical way .
I used my mates ,Henry ,vacum but he wasn't too pleased as it was full of water!!
I,ve just completed the exercise of removing rear engine bay floor as the it's first wash at weekend I noticed water pooling in the "V" sections of the subframe on the surface of the heat mat. my first thought was to drill 2 small holes in the floor pan in this area, anybody overcome this ptoblem in a more technical less Heath Robinson way ! ?
Sorry i cant't supply a more technical way .
I used my mates ,Henry ,vacum but he wasn't too pleased as it was full of water!!
Edited by verba1 on Sunday 13th February 12:03
Guys, had a heads up on this http://www.acf-50.co.uk/ from a mate that has an S1. He recomends it as they have been raving about on SELOC elise forum.
Should do the job if it,s been designed for the aircraft industry......
Should do the job if it,s been designed for the aircraft industry......
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