Rust treatment
Discussion
I did a search and read through some info online but interested in what PH'ers do about treating rust spots, any recommendations for treatment?
i have a small bit of rust around one my wheel arches and a spot on the corner of the passenger door of my Escort that i would like to get rid of in the least destructive way possible. any help appreciated :-)
i have a small bit of rust around one my wheel arches and a spot on the corner of the passenger door of my Escort that i would like to get rid of in the least destructive way possible. any help appreciated :-)
I had good results doing a few little spots on my BMW with the following tools/method:
£20 'spray kit' comprising primer, colour coat and laquer with fine grade sand paper and G3 polishing compound.
Wire wheel.
kurust
Knifing putty.
Process:
Wire wheeeled off the paint and rust. Just checked that it was surface only and of limited extent.
Used wet and dry to really clean it up.
Rinsed off with meths.
Dried and used Kurust to 'deactivate' any rust left in pits. Left an hour.
Knifing putty over the pitted area to make it smooth, dry, sand, repeat until a smooth finish is achieved. People have suggested that using 'high build primer' negates this step and gives a good finish. I didn't have any.
Once happy with the surface, several coats of primer. Flat back with wet and ry once dry, re coated with a bit more primer. Thin coats, many layers.
Allow primer to dry fully, flat back, then colour coat. Built up in 3 layers, then allowed to go off, then flatted back and rinsed with meths then re-coated.
Allowed to fully dry (24 hours) and then the laquer in much the same way as the color coat.
Finally flatted back with very fine wet and dry, and then polished up with G3 compound and lots of elbow work.
This got me acceptable results for a first timer, and has lasted a year and is still looking fine. It is by no means a definative guide! Any corrections or adoce gratefully received.
The biggest pain was the time it took, I did the job over 4-5 days and I needed dry weather as workig outside. The main problem is getting the rust cleaned, treated and re-coated to colour coat without any moisture getting in. You also end up painting a much larger area than you think! In my case a 2" patch of rust. Ar the corner of the door resulted in a 6"x8" patch being re-painted.
£20 'spray kit' comprising primer, colour coat and laquer with fine grade sand paper and G3 polishing compound.
Wire wheel.
kurust
Knifing putty.
Process:
Wire wheeeled off the paint and rust. Just checked that it was surface only and of limited extent.
Used wet and dry to really clean it up.
Rinsed off with meths.
Dried and used Kurust to 'deactivate' any rust left in pits. Left an hour.
Knifing putty over the pitted area to make it smooth, dry, sand, repeat until a smooth finish is achieved. People have suggested that using 'high build primer' negates this step and gives a good finish. I didn't have any.
Once happy with the surface, several coats of primer. Flat back with wet and ry once dry, re coated with a bit more primer. Thin coats, many layers.
Allow primer to dry fully, flat back, then colour coat. Built up in 3 layers, then allowed to go off, then flatted back and rinsed with meths then re-coated.
Allowed to fully dry (24 hours) and then the laquer in much the same way as the color coat.
Finally flatted back with very fine wet and dry, and then polished up with G3 compound and lots of elbow work.
This got me acceptable results for a first timer, and has lasted a year and is still looking fine. It is by no means a definative guide! Any corrections or adoce gratefully received.
The biggest pain was the time it took, I did the job over 4-5 days and I needed dry weather as workig outside. The main problem is getting the rust cleaned, treated and re-coated to colour coat without any moisture getting in. You also end up painting a much larger area than you think! In my case a 2" patch of rust. Ar the corner of the door resulted in a 6"x8" patch being re-painted.
WeirdNeville said:
I had good results doing a few little spots on my BMW with the following tools/method:
£20 'spray kit' comprising primer, colour coat and laquer with fine grade sand paper and G3 polishing compound.
Wire wheel.
kurust
Knifing putty.
Process:
Wire wheeeled off the paint and rust. Just checked that it was surface only and of limited extent.
Used wet and dry to really clean it up.
Rinsed off with meths.
Dried and used Kurust to 'deactivate' any rust left in pits. Left an hour.
Knifing putty over the pitted area to make it smooth, dry, sand, repeat until a smooth finish is achieved. People have suggested that using 'high build primer' negates this step and gives a good finish. I didn't have any.
Once happy with the surface, several coats of primer. Flat back with wet and ry once dry, re coated with a bit more primer. Thin coats, many layers.
Allow primer to dry fully, flat back, then colour coat. Built up in 3 layers, then allowed to go off, then flatted back and rinsed with meths then re-coated.
Allowed to fully dry (24 hours) and then the laquer in much the same way as the color coat.
Finally flatted back with very fine wet and dry, and then polished up with G3 compound and lots of elbow work.
This got me acceptable results for a first timer, and has lasted a year and is still looking fine. It is by no means a definative guide! Any corrections or adoce gratefully received.
The biggest pain was the time it took, I did the job over 4-5 days and I needed dry weather as workig outside. The main problem is getting the rust cleaned, treated and re-coated to colour coat without any moisture getting in. You also end up painting a much larger area than you think! In my case a 2" patch of rust. Ar the corner of the door resulted in a 6"x8" patch being re-painted.
i replied just before you posted...cheers for this info, very helpful indeed :-).£20 'spray kit' comprising primer, colour coat and laquer with fine grade sand paper and G3 polishing compound.
Wire wheel.
kurust
Knifing putty.
Process:
Wire wheeeled off the paint and rust. Just checked that it was surface only and of limited extent.
Used wet and dry to really clean it up.
Rinsed off with meths.
Dried and used Kurust to 'deactivate' any rust left in pits. Left an hour.
Knifing putty over the pitted area to make it smooth, dry, sand, repeat until a smooth finish is achieved. People have suggested that using 'high build primer' negates this step and gives a good finish. I didn't have any.
Once happy with the surface, several coats of primer. Flat back with wet and ry once dry, re coated with a bit more primer. Thin coats, many layers.
Allow primer to dry fully, flat back, then colour coat. Built up in 3 layers, then allowed to go off, then flatted back and rinsed with meths then re-coated.
Allowed to fully dry (24 hours) and then the laquer in much the same way as the color coat.
Finally flatted back with very fine wet and dry, and then polished up with G3 compound and lots of elbow work.
This got me acceptable results for a first timer, and has lasted a year and is still looking fine. It is by no means a definative guide! Any corrections or adoce gratefully received.
The biggest pain was the time it took, I did the job over 4-5 days and I needed dry weather as workig outside. The main problem is getting the rust cleaned, treated and re-coated to colour coat without any moisture getting in. You also end up painting a much larger area than you think! In my case a 2" patch of rust. Ar the corner of the door resulted in a 6"x8" patch being re-painted.
i take it the 2inch paint job turning into 6"x8" paint job was due to the blending of the sanded area?
akkord said:
Parrot of Doom said:
Get new panels and respray. Seriously.
That was my last resort, but you saying it's the only way? Anyone gone down the 'sanding, rust inhibitor, filler then paint' route?As said, the only way to get rid of it is to replace the panel (or at least the part of it that is rusty).
akkord said:
i take it the 2inch paint job turning into 6"x8" paint job was due to the blending of the sanded area?
Yeah, once you've wire wheeled the pain off you end up with a big area to re-cover. To make the blend nice and smooth you end up attacking ever increasing areas with wet and dry to key each layer in. Then once it's blended the G3 keys it all together. About half way through I got the dread that I'd f
ked it up horribly, then it started lookig better and better and I was pleased with the results.With the arches, there's is a good chance that they have rusted through from back to front, that could take a P45 repair or indeed a new bit of metal putting in.
I wanted to tidy up the looks ofthecar and stop the spread of rust, so i tackled it myself. If it starts again in another yar I'll think 'fair enough'.
If you want concourse and a finish that will last 10 years, pay to get it cut out and re finished. Likewise , if it was anything more than a spot of rust a few mm wide that had penetrated the arch or the car is your pride and joy I'd consider paying someone.
WeirdNeville said:
eah, once you've wire wheeled the pain off you end up with a big area to re-cover. To make the blend nice and smooth you end up attacking ever increasing areas with wet and dry to key each layer in. Then once it's blended the G3 keys it all together. About half way through I got the dread that I'd fked it up horribly, then it started lookig better and better and I was pleased with the results.
With the arches, there's is a good chance that they have rusted through from back to front, that could take a P45 repair or indeed a new bit of metal putting in.
I wanted to tidy up the looks ofthecar and stop the spread of rust, so i tackled it myself. If it starts again in another yar I'll think 'fair enough'.
If you want concourse and a finish that will last 10 years, pay to get it cut out and re finished. Likewise , if it was anything more than a spot of rust a few mm wide that had penetrated the arch or the car is your pride and joy I'd consider paying someone.
Now i'm not sure, i don't have the disposable cash to pay for others to do things at the mo. but thanks for the info :-)ked it up horribly, then it started lookig better and better and I was pleased with the results.With the arches, there's is a good chance that they have rusted through from back to front, that could take a P45 repair or indeed a new bit of metal putting in.
I wanted to tidy up the looks ofthecar and stop the spread of rust, so i tackled it myself. If it starts again in another yar I'll think 'fair enough'.
If you want concourse and a finish that will last 10 years, pay to get it cut out and re finished. Likewise , if it was anything more than a spot of rust a few mm wide that had penetrated the arch or the car is your pride and joy I'd consider paying someone.
cheesesliceking said:
reggie82 said:
Yup I did. Within 6 months the rust was starting to come back again.
As said, the only way to get rid of it is to replace the panel (or at least the part of it that is rusty).
You didnt do it properly..As said, the only way to get rid of it is to replace the panel (or at least the part of it that is rusty).
Two years on my wing and nothing has come back.
Depends on where the rust starts though, if it's on the wheelarch there is a good chance that it started on the inside before showing on the outside. Will usually show through again after a number of months.
Surface rust only like a couple of bubbles on a pillar should fix up fine as long as all the rust has been removed.
Surface rust only like a couple of bubbles on a pillar should fix up fine as long as all the rust has been removed.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff