Rover V8 Rebuild - Line Hone Mains with ARP studs?
Discussion
Hi all,
Am going to be starting a RV8 rebuild for my TVR Chimaera.
Rebuild is being based on old 4.6 Range Rover engine. Will be flanging liners, getting head work done and regrinding crank etc etc.
I'd like to get a decent power output from it - not crazy bhp but something between the TVR version of the RV8 that went in the 450's and 500's
Won't be revving the nuts off it all the time but would like to know that the main caps aren't going to be jiggling round if I give it some up round the 5000's especially as I'll be running (probably) a stealth cam / pocketed pistons.
Car will be mainly road use with very occasional track days.
So bearing all that in mind, would it be advisable to go the ARP tourqued up route or stay with the standard main bolts?
Thanks
ETA - Not 450 / 500 BHP!!
Ryan
Am going to be starting a RV8 rebuild for my TVR Chimaera.
Rebuild is being based on old 4.6 Range Rover engine. Will be flanging liners, getting head work done and regrinding crank etc etc.
I'd like to get a decent power output from it - not crazy bhp but something between the TVR version of the RV8 that went in the 450's and 500's
Won't be revving the nuts off it all the time but would like to know that the main caps aren't going to be jiggling round if I give it some up round the 5000's especially as I'll be running (probably) a stealth cam / pocketed pistons.
Car will be mainly road use with very occasional track days.
So bearing all that in mind, would it be advisable to go the ARP tourqued up route or stay with the standard main bolts?
Thanks
ETA - Not 450 / 500 BHP!!
Ryan
Edited by debaron on Monday 14th February 19:16
Expecting 450-500bhp from a n/a RV8 for the most part...is crazy hp. Even more so if dreaming that you might achieve it only revving to 5000rpm.
But as the 4.6 is already cross bolted, I wouldnt worry too much about them. They will be perfectly fine at the lowly power figures the RV8's produce whether using studs or not.
But as the 4.6 is already cross bolted, I wouldnt worry too much about them. They will be perfectly fine at the lowly power figures the RV8's produce whether using studs or not.
If you somehow manage to get 100% manifold vol eff, and hit a BSAC of 3.4kg/kwhr (quite hard) then that would net you 435Nm and 306Bhp at 5500rpm. if you push that up to 5500rpm that's 337bhp.
personally, i suspect that's a sensible top limit for n/a perf from that engine.
over 400 will take forced induction.
personally, i suspect that's a sensible top limit for n/a perf from that engine.
over 400 will take forced induction.
I can recommend the stealth cam, I fitted one when my 500's cam became quite angular on 3 lobes!
The stealth gave 297 hp and 313 lb/ft on an other wise "standard" 500. I'm not sure you'd need pocketed pistons, unless you're trying to achieve a higher comp. ratio.
The stealth gave a noticeable increae from 2500 up, smoothed the ticker and sharpened the response - well happy with it. Without doubt though, the best thing you can do is junk the god awful distributor and fit coil pack ignition. The differnce that makes is massive.
The stealth gave 297 hp and 313 lb/ft on an other wise "standard" 500. I'm not sure you'd need pocketed pistons, unless you're trying to achieve a higher comp. ratio.
The stealth gave a noticeable increae from 2500 up, smoothed the ticker and sharpened the response - well happy with it. Without doubt though, the best thing you can do is junk the god awful distributor and fit coil pack ignition. The differnce that makes is massive.
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