Dual Action Polisher on a Tuscan
Discussion
OK so we're all a little obsessed with making our P&J look it's best. So I've gone and bought myself a DodoJuice Buff Daddy (yes that is it's real name) DA Polisher and various pads and polishes etc.
Been on Detailing World where there is a great blog on how to use a polishing machine http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
My question is does anybody have any experience of using a DA polisher on a Tuscan? Any tips or advice?
Obviously going to use a very soft finishing pad and light cut polish as opposed to a cutting compound to begin with and will practice on a friends 'fixer upper' to get the hang of it before unleashing it on my P&J!
Assuming we get some good weather soon and I get to use it, I'll post some pics of the results
Been on Detailing World where there is a great blog on how to use a polishing machine http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
My question is does anybody have any experience of using a DA polisher on a Tuscan? Any tips or advice?
Obviously going to use a very soft finishing pad and light cut polish as opposed to a cutting compound to begin with and will practice on a friends 'fixer upper' to get the hang of it before unleashing it on my P&J!
Assuming we get some good weather soon and I get to use it, I'll post some pics of the results
Be very VERY careful that you don't let too much heat build up under the pad at any one time. GRP doesn't conduct the heat away from the pad like metal bodywork might (at least that's my explanation of it) so you run a higher risk that the pad will 'bite' into the paintwork and cause some pretty bad paint damage. This has happened to me and I was absolutely gutted! Take your time and keep feeling the surface of the paintwork to make sure the heat doesn't build up and use plenty of lube spray.
Yeah I had the same thought as I was typing it!I have a Meguires DA polisher, which I bought specifically to sort the paint on my Audi S4 a few years back. I thought that paint was hard until I tackled my Tuscan S. So long as you start off with a soft pad and mild compound polish you should be fine, just don't lose patience! It took me roughly 40 hours to remove all swirls/blemishes from the Audi and about double that on the Tuscan!
Mattt said:
Al, were you using a rotary or DA?
Ah, yes; should've pointed out I was using a rotary but I think the principle is still the same re: heat build-up. Happy to be corrected though; I'm certainly no expert (unless f*cking-up is an expertise!).As for the lube (fnar, fnar!) I use either Dodo Juice Red Mist or Dodo Juice Clay Lube; I find water just isn't quite up to the job.
Trainspotter said:
I have a Meguires DA polisher, which I bought specifically to sort the paint on my Audi S4 a few years back. I thought that paint was hard until I tackled my Tuscan S. So long as you start off with a soft pad and mild compound polish you should be fine, just don't lose patience! It took me roughly 40 hours to remove all swirls/blemishes from the Audi and about double that on the Tuscan!
No wonder I was getting fed up when I did not see results after spending an hour on each panel!
I will give it another go when I have sorted the other little jobs.
T350 Al said:
Ah, yes; should've pointed out I was using a rotary but I think the principle is still the same re: heat build-up. Happy to be corrected though; I'm certainly no expert (unless f*cking-up is an expertise!).
As for the lube (fnar, fnar!) I use either Dodo Juice Red Mist or Dodo Juice Clay Lube; I find water just isn't quite up to the job.
You shouldn't need lube when machine polishing - some use 'pad prime' at the beginning, but the compounds you use should be lubricated enough, although it's worth keeping an eye on proceedings to prevent them 'clumping' or the panel getting too hot. Remember that heat and some abrasion (rather than lube) will do the cutting you need to get paint looking good.As for the lube (fnar, fnar!) I use either Dodo Juice Red Mist or Dodo Juice Clay Lube; I find water just isn't quite up to the job.
If you do use a spray while machining, use water (most compounds are water based emulsions) or Born Slippy (this will be fine). Don't use Red Mist as this is solvent based and will be trying to seal the panel you are attempting to cut. The 'Time to Dry' detailer would be better but not advised. Stick to water, Born Slippy or the 'pad prime' that is commercially available.
I never use it... the compound will be enough. Something like Lime Prime is very workable and quite oily anyway.
Sorry, no offence meant, just seemed to describe the MG for the purposes of the post. Let me rephrase and call it a classic car restoration project. Is that better?
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