Discussion
Hi Readers
Can anyone out there help me, my cam chain snapped and I bent four inlet valves the head has been re-worked.But when I came to fit my head gasket it didn't fit it turns out that the 2.5 16v engine I thought I had is a 3.0 16v,so now I have a head set without a head gasket to fit does anyone out there have a head gasket that will?
Can anyone recommend a way of setting the inlet cam up for timing?
Also can anyone recommend a air induction kit for the 3.0 16v?
Cheers Si
Can anyone out there help me, my cam chain snapped and I bent four inlet valves the head has been re-worked.But when I came to fit my head gasket it didn't fit it turns out that the 2.5 16v engine I thought I had is a 3.0 16v,so now I have a head set without a head gasket to fit does anyone out there have a head gasket that will?
Can anyone recommend a way of setting the inlet cam up for timing?
Also can anyone recommend a air induction kit for the 3.0 16v?
Cheers Si
Si944s said:
Hi Readers
Can anyone out there help me, my cam chain snapped and I bent four inlet valves the head has been re-worked.But when I came to fit my head gasket it didn't fit it turns out that the 2.5 16v engine I thought I had is a 3.0 16v,so now I have a head set without a head gasket to fit does anyone out there have a head gasket that will?
Can anyone recommend a way of setting the inlet cam up for timing?
Also can anyone recommend a air induction kit for the 3.0 16v?
Cheers Si
Yikes. Errr, do you really want to attempt this stuff yourself if you didn't know that an S2 was 3.0 litres? No offence - you may be an expert who made a simple mistake, BUT...
Buy a new head gasket from an Official Porsche Centre. Or try Eurocarparts as they may do a cheaper aftermarket one etc. Don't skimp on bolts and gaskets or you may be doing the bugger again very soon.
Don't bother with air induction kit, or Dogsharks will get his K/N files out again
Won't make much difference. The best way to get big gains is via a supercharger or putting a 2.5 Turbo lump in. HTH
Dom
Thanks for the advice
I only found out about the engine size by checking the engine no, and measuring the bore size.My log book still claims its a 2.5 so this will need to be changed.
I purchased the car from a salvage yard so I dont no a lot about its history,it has been completely re-sprayed,so now I am looking for someone who does upholstery and alloy wheel conditioning within in the Anglia region.
Si
I only found out about the engine size by checking the engine no, and measuring the bore size.My log book still claims its a 2.5 so this will need to be changed.
I purchased the car from a salvage yard so I dont no a lot about its history,it has been completely re-sprayed,so now I am looking for someone who does upholstery and alloy wheel conditioning within in the Anglia region.
Si
I had the cambelt on my 2.5 S go a while ago.
Unfortunantly the 3.0 litre head is different from the 2.5 litre head, and both have a different block to the 2.5 8 valve head.
You could fit the same gasket which you took off (almost certainly a 3.0 litre gasket) but as you suggest a new head would be the "safer" option.
In terms of cam alaignment, the inlet cam has the cambelt fitted with a key (I forget the correct term for this), and the cam belt cog has got markings for TDC.
The crank TDC can be seen either from directly above, at the rear of the engine (you'll have to kneel on the suspension strut to see over enough, with a torch), or from underneath- by the sterter nmotor there is a small inspection hole. Usefully the flywheel is makred at both ends (0 and 180 degrees, so you can use either mark). When I rebuilt my engine I sed the bottom marker.
It is also very important to set the chain correctly: that is, with the correct amount of teeth between chain links.
Hope this helps
Will
Unfortunantly the 3.0 litre head is different from the 2.5 litre head, and both have a different block to the 2.5 8 valve head.
You could fit the same gasket which you took off (almost certainly a 3.0 litre gasket) but as you suggest a new head would be the "safer" option.
In terms of cam alaignment, the inlet cam has the cambelt fitted with a key (I forget the correct term for this), and the cam belt cog has got markings for TDC.
The crank TDC can be seen either from directly above, at the rear of the engine (you'll have to kneel on the suspension strut to see over enough, with a torch), or from underneath- by the sterter nmotor there is a small inspection hole. Usefully the flywheel is makred at both ends (0 and 180 degrees, so you can use either mark). When I rebuilt my engine I sed the bottom marker.
It is also very important to set the chain correctly: that is, with the correct amount of teeth between chain links.
Hope this helps
Will
TRhe car wasn't a white one was it. I travelled half a day to see an S2 about 2 years ago only to find it was actually an S with full body conversion to S2. The top end had been re-worked, supposedly to give 220.
I only noticed it was a 2.5 when I came to look at v5. In tre end I walked away because it just seemed a bit too much of a story. I think it was an 87/88 car and was in Cheltenham in 2002
I only noticed it was a 2.5 when I came to look at v5. In tre end I walked away because it just seemed a bit too much of a story. I think it was an 87/88 car and was in Cheltenham in 2002
The car wasn't a white one was it. I travelled half a day to see an S2 about 2 years ago only to find it was actually an S with full body conversion to S2. The top end had been re-worked, supposedly to give 220.
I only noticed it was a 2.5 when I came to look at v5. In tre end I walked away because it just seemed a bit too much of a story. I think it was an 87/88 car and was in Cheltenham in 2002
I only noticed it was a 2.5 when I came to look at v5. In tre end I walked away because it just seemed a bit too much of a story. I think it was an 87/88 car and was in Cheltenham in 2002
Unless it is a solid metal gasket, I wouldn't recommend reusing a head gasket! They are designed to compress when torqued up. Using an old one is a sure way to get it blowing. Don't be so tight, they are pretty cheap anyway. Don't reuse the bolts either as unless they are raceware studs they will be stretch bolts.
For interior stuff, try southbound motor trimmers (google it or search these forums) as they will have the exact Porsche cloth in stock and can do good refurbs on carpets and upholstery. Cheaper than OPC but still not cheap.
Lots of places do alloy wheel refurbs. Try Diamond Styling, a few about.
As for the V5, don't ever believe the rubbish they put on them. I filled out my own details when I imported cars, and any old stuff can be put in. I was driving around in a '2498cc' BMW that had a 4.0 engine in it. Changed the details myself... it's that easy.
Cheers
Dom
For interior stuff, try southbound motor trimmers (google it or search these forums) as they will have the exact Porsche cloth in stock and can do good refurbs on carpets and upholstery. Cheaper than OPC but still not cheap.
Lots of places do alloy wheel refurbs. Try Diamond Styling, a few about.
As for the V5, don't ever believe the rubbish they put on them. I filled out my own details when I imported cars, and any old stuff can be put in. I was driving around in a '2498cc' BMW that had a 4.0 engine in it. Changed the details myself... it's that easy.
Cheers
Dom
Good advice cheers
I was advised to measure the head as it has been skimmed it measures 146.8mm, so I have been told to use a 1.4mm head gasket, the original is 1.1mm is 0.3mm that critical, I am going to use the 1.4mm. Its seems asthough there isn't a lot of clearance.So therefore how critical does the timing need to be?
Si
I was advised to measure the head as it has been skimmed it measures 146.8mm, so I have been told to use a 1.4mm head gasket, the original is 1.1mm is 0.3mm that critical, I am going to use the 1.4mm. Its seems asthough there isn't a lot of clearance.So therefore how critical does the timing need to be?
Si
The problem is that a thinner gasket will increase engine compression (because the head now sits lower and thus the capacity of the cylinders are minutely reduced). Sometimes this can be a good thing (ie high compression race engines)), other times it can lead to detonation and destroy your pride and joy (uh oh!).
You may find that a 1.1 gasket is OK, but timing and engine mapping would need to be taken into account. If in doubt, keep it as close to standard as possible.
I am only a layman and prone to talk b*llocks, so I'd advice you have a chat with ninemeister who really knows his engines. He is at 9mracing.com
Cheers
Dom
You may find that a 1.1 gasket is OK, but timing and engine mapping would need to be taken into account. If in doubt, keep it as close to standard as possible.
I am only a layman and prone to talk b*llocks, so I'd advice you have a chat with ninemeister who really knows his engines. He is at 9mracing.com
Cheers
Dom
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