Boot solenoid - DIY fix?

[Garlick]

For the third time my boot release button appears to be giving up, making fuel stops a bit of an issue. Sometimes it works, more often than not it doesn't. Oddly, if someone pulls the boot lid while I press the button it usually works (I have asked strangers to do this for me at fuel stations)

Anyway, far from being ANOTHER thread on how to open the boot manually, I am wondering how to adjust/ fix the release button myself? Twice I have taken it back to the dealer to fix (no charge) but if it is going to keep happening I may as well learn how to do it myself. I assume it is cable operated and perhaps it just works loose?

Any clues/ hints or tips?

[WOO5IE]

Have you tried cleaning the connector to the solonoid. If its not the connection then change the solonoid. They are only about £8 from Modwise.

Cleaning the connector cleared my intermittent problem. You will need some copydex or the like to glue carpet back though.

[Garlick]

Interesting, thanks.

To be honest I haven't done any investigative work at all yet (other than type this post) so that's useful.

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

After mine dropped its sump plug on the M25 and sat on the hard shoulder with the hazards on for an hour or two, both the driver's door and boot lid solenoid got lazy. So low voltage doesn't help - which would support the suggestion of cleaning the contacts. I've since had both solenoids replaced by Str8Six, who told me that they do get a bit weak over time. I figured that it would be enough of an arse-ache if either of them failed fully that it was worth getting both done, although not cheap at about £150.

[miniman]

I was going to post about a similar issue, only mine is with the driver's door. When the car has been stood for a while, it takes 2 or 3 presses of the mirror switch to get the door to actually unlatch. Perhaps a new solenoid would be a decent starting point - are they the same as the boot one?

[mistermagoo]

Where is to boot solenoid located as mine is not working?

[myph]

Boot solenoid is located in the boot behind the carpet under the locking mechanism ie just above the number plate, you have to remove some carpet to get to it. An easy but fiddly job, replacements available from Maplins for about £8.

[dog man]

I've recently done mine. Very easy and cheap. All the solenoid is inside is a small electric motor and simply the brushes/brush springs wear or become weak. Mine seemed to have melted which was weird.

[SteveGRF]

Its also worth checking the dash switch in case it gets stuck in / on causing the soleniod to burn out (happened to me twice).

[WOO5IE]

miniman said:

I was going to post about a similar issue, only mine is with the driver's door. When the car has been stood for a while, it takes 2 or 3 presses of the mirror switch to get the door to actually unlatch. Perhaps a new solenoid would be a decent starting point - are they the same as the boot one?

There are 2 types of solonoid 2 wires and 5 wires, The 5 wire ones can fit either.

Speak to the guy at Modwise .

I have similar issues with my drivers door sometimes. I give the door openeing mechanism a spray with WD and this seems to Ok for a few months. I will canhge the solonoid very soon though.

Edited by WOO5IE on Thursday 24th February 11:27

[Hedgehopper]

When you fit a new solenoid you have to adjust the wire release cable correctly, otherwise the movement of the solenoid just takes up a lot of slack without pulling the release lever on the lock sufficiently to open the catch.

If your solenoid burns out it may be that the dash button has caught under the veneer keeping the switch permanently on, (assuming that the switch/veneer is the same as on a Griff).

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

Dr Mike Oxgreen said:

I've since had both solenoids replaced ... not cheap at about £150.

myph said:

An easy but fiddly job, replacements available from Maplins for about £8.

Boy, do I feel silly now! Oh well, it's only money innit!

[Kiteboardkid]

Hi,

My boot release has stopped working whilst in storage over the winter. Mangaged to open the boot and remove the solenoid (2 wire), have opened this up and the small motor doesn't seem to do anything when attached to a 12v battery, it also looks and smells like it's burnt out. I have a new solenoid coming from my local dealer "Racing Green TVR" £14! (bargain!)
Which now leads me onto my next question, What voltage should I see at the conectors for the solenoid?
I assume 12v? But when i press the boot release button under the dash, my meter is only registering 0.3 of a volt. This reduces to 0 when button is released. Surely this is not enough to operate the new solenoid when it arrives tomorrow. Help!!

Thanks

[estutjaweh]

Funnily enough this is the reason I asked about the boot entry thing. I knew the trick as it turned out, just couldn't be arsed everytime and thought the trick would be something more simple.

Anyway, my boot release only seems to work if I tap the release button whilst driving over bumpy terrain...as if the bumps help spring the boot out of the catch. I thought that the catch was maybe too tight but it works just as poorly after I adjusted it.

Can someone post a link to the maplins cheap solenoid so they don't end up sending me the wrong one.

Thanks.

[Jon Brown]

estutjaweh said:

Can someone post a link to the maplins cheap solenoid so they don't end up sending me the wrong one.

Thanks.

£8 from maplins, no link but the part number is YD79L. Literally is a five minute swap

[estutjaweh]

Super Cheers. I've just found this too. Looks the same, what do you think?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/2-Wire-Door-Motor-Pop-Solen...

[David Beer]

That's a great price, no reason not to use.