Fitting new skirting boards against brick
Discussion
Hi All 
I'm in the process of recovering from having all my walls plastered in the lounge. Possibly the worst job i've had to endure! Just as well the carpet was going
Anyway - i'm starting to fit some primed MDF Torus skirting. The plaster comes down the wall and leaves a 3 inch gap to the floor where a black damp-proof paint is covering the wall. The wall has some moisture on top of the damp proof paint which in itself isn't cause for concern, but i will be placing up blocks of wood up against this to pack the back of the skirting board out before i screw it in, to ensure i get them evenly screwed up to the wall.
My question is : Should i be treating these soft wood blocks with something to protect them against the moisture? likewise will the untreated back of my new MDF skirting be at risk from the moisture ? Just got visions of mould or something coming trhough my nice new skirting board later down the line!
Just interested to hear any tips or experiences.
Cheers
Steve
I'm in the process of recovering from having all my walls plastered in the lounge. Possibly the worst job i've had to endure! Just as well the carpet was going
Anyway - i'm starting to fit some primed MDF Torus skirting. The plaster comes down the wall and leaves a 3 inch gap to the floor where a black damp-proof paint is covering the wall. The wall has some moisture on top of the damp proof paint which in itself isn't cause for concern, but i will be placing up blocks of wood up against this to pack the back of the skirting board out before i screw it in, to ensure i get them evenly screwed up to the wall.
My question is : Should i be treating these soft wood blocks with something to protect them against the moisture? likewise will the untreated back of my new MDF skirting be at risk from the moisture ? Just got visions of mould or something coming trhough my nice new skirting board later down the line!
Just interested to hear any tips or experiences.
Cheers
Steve
Dont let bare mdf get damp or wet, it will blow and warp within days!
Also is this damp a permanant thing? I would not really want to be covering damp up - can you not treat the problem first?
Any wood will need treating, and I dont think there will be a way of stopping mould growing on a damp/warm concealed area.
Also is this damp a permanant thing? I would not really want to be covering damp up - can you not treat the problem first?
Any wood will need treating, and I dont think there will be a way of stopping mould growing on a damp/warm concealed area.
Hi guys
The plasters had a good 2 weeks to dry and i've put a rad back on last night so the rooms starting to warm up nicely. Rest assured the plaster is completely dry. No damp spots are present.
Without writing war and peace and boring you guys to death, the room is an extended lounge that has a alleyway alongside the longest wall, my tarmac drive against the front wall, and the patio on the back wall. Water does tend to linger a bit. I had some limited DPC work done on certain areas such as patio door and a wall that backs onto my tarmac drive. The drainage isnt perfect in the neighbouring alleyway but its not hideous either. Planning on weatherproofing the alleyway wall with some sort of breathable sealant, and probably getting the driveway done with a purpose made slope to take rainwater away from the walls and maybe some kind of drainage trench near the house. The plastering was done after the DPC work as the room needed gutting anyway (just moved in).
Aside of a few minor drainage concerns which are probably the reason why a DPC was recommended in the first place - i am sure the moisture on the wall on top of the damp proof sealant isnt a cause for concern. The extension was built in 91 and the last owners have been there 17 years so i am reasonably happy that if there were any fundamental issues they would have been caught already.
So you reckon the back of my MDF and my packing blocks need waterproofing/sealing. Should i opt for a regular external wood treatment or would a thick coat of gloss be sufficient. Bearing in mind the skirting is not coming into direct contact with the wall that has some moisture on - the plaster comes out about and inch so there is a cavity behind the skirting - hence the need for packing blocks
The plasters had a good 2 weeks to dry and i've put a rad back on last night so the rooms starting to warm up nicely. Rest assured the plaster is completely dry. No damp spots are present.
Without writing war and peace and boring you guys to death, the room is an extended lounge that has a alleyway alongside the longest wall, my tarmac drive against the front wall, and the patio on the back wall. Water does tend to linger a bit. I had some limited DPC work done on certain areas such as patio door and a wall that backs onto my tarmac drive. The drainage isnt perfect in the neighbouring alleyway but its not hideous either. Planning on weatherproofing the alleyway wall with some sort of breathable sealant, and probably getting the driveway done with a purpose made slope to take rainwater away from the walls and maybe some kind of drainage trench near the house. The plastering was done after the DPC work as the room needed gutting anyway (just moved in).
Aside of a few minor drainage concerns which are probably the reason why a DPC was recommended in the first place - i am sure the moisture on the wall on top of the damp proof sealant isnt a cause for concern. The extension was built in 91 and the last owners have been there 17 years so i am reasonably happy that if there were any fundamental issues they would have been caught already.
So you reckon the back of my MDF and my packing blocks need waterproofing/sealing. Should i opt for a regular external wood treatment or would a thick coat of gloss be sufficient. Bearing in mind the skirting is not coming into direct contact with the wall that has some moisture on - the plaster comes out about and inch so there is a cavity behind the skirting - hence the need for packing blocks
Edited by J-Tuner on Thursday 24th February 15:48
Looks like this is just the ticket :
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Liquid-Damp-Proof-Membrane...
Was thinking of brushing that in the cavity to touch up the parts where my drilling has removed the old coat, then apply some to some treated timber :
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Sawn-Treated-Softwood/invt...
Sounds easy enough Would using the DPM on the skirting boards be a good idea ?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Liquid-Damp-Proof-Membrane...
Was thinking of brushing that in the cavity to touch up the parts where my drilling has removed the old coat, then apply some to some treated timber :
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Sawn-Treated-Softwood/invt...
Sounds easy enough
Would using the DPM on the skirting boards be a good idea ?J-Tuner said:
Would using the DPM on the skirting boards be a good idea ?
Wouldn't hurt on the reverse and base. That way no damp can breach the DPC via the new boards.That's the stuff I've used (Wickes).
Bloody messy job though, wear gloves and use a brush you're happy to throw away afterwards.
Edited by B17NNS on Thursday 24th February 16:33
te on everything instead of putting the boards on - a job worth doing though!J-Tuner said:
I have a 3 inch cavity before the plaster begins, and the walls aren't 100% straight - gripfill isnt an option.
Expanding foam will do the job ,I was dubious about using it but it does work ,the trick is to run a thin bead of it about an inch down from the top of the skirting then squirt a big ball of it into the void about every 12 inches.then just tack the top to the wall,give it 24hrs to cure then remove the nails.Might be worth buying a gun rather than just the use once cans as you have a lot more control over the amount you put on.
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