Starter Motor Options

[Chimpafrolic]

Hi folks,

It's the old turn the key - click & nothing game, followed by try again and she bursts into life.

The starter spins well so its obviosely just the solenoid.

Actually its only ever happened three times in the last 12 months but to me its a little warning to start thinking about starter motor options.

After a bit of research it seems I am faced with "options, options everywhere", so can you help me decide what I go for?

Here are just a few options:

• Luxury: PowerLite RAC318 at £200.00 + carriage

• Seems good value: High Torque Starter from RatSport (RS38) at £110.00 + carriage

• Regular: Range Rover NAD101490 (RTC6061N) "no name" at £70.00 + carriage

• Cheapskate: Starter motor solenoid (STC1242) for above "no name" £30.00 + carriage

I favor either the RatSport RS38 High Torque or just pop a solenoid on my old starter for £35.00 squids but I am very much open to suggestions.

Thanks in advance for sharing your starter motor experiences, Dave.

NB: The "no names" could be replaced with genuine at extra cost, or I could go the recon exchange rout further complicating the whole thing

Edited by Chimpafrolic on Thursday 24th February 22:58

[bsdnazz]

It might be the immobiliser rather than the starter motor.

The immobiliser has relays that control both the fuel pump and the starter motor. To check, next time you have a problem keep the ignition key in the start position and slap the underside of the passenger dash! The immobiliser is in there and the starter motor relay can fail. A few slaps will usually close the relay contacts and the engine will turn over.

Worth a try to confirm a problem with the starter or not...

[Chimpafrolic]

bsdnazz said:

It might be the immobiliser rather than the starter motor.

The immobiliser has relays that control both the fuel pump and the starter motor. To check, next time you have a problem keep the ignition key in the start position and slap the underside of the passenger dash! The immobiliser is in there and the starter motor relay can fail. A few slaps will usually close the relay contacts and the engine will turn over.

Worth a try to confirm a problem with the starter or not...

Thanks bsdnazz, but I'm certain its a solenoid/starter issue.

Its not a regular thing but on occasion I do get the classic, click - nothing - try again - away she goes.

One of my rad fans failed a while back (easy fix just a fusty connector) and she got a bit warm, expect I cooked the solenoid

So what option

As an old school cheapskate I'm inclined to favor STC1242

[walt762]

It has already been mentioned in a thread about a year ago but I was pointed to Brookwells for a new starter & thought it was worth the risk so bought one & it works great been in for nearly a year with no problems, link below.
http://www.brookwell.co.uk/item/243/replacement-st...

[captaintact]

I have the same problem hot or cold. My starter motor was brand new 1000 miles ago (under different ownership). Must check guarantee.
Re immobiliser, only the later cars have a solenoid for the starter motor. Also poss the ignition switch getting dodgy if earlier version as all current goes through it and it's cheap to replace.

[Chimpafrolic]

walt762 said:

It has already been mentioned in a thread about a year ago but I was pointed to Brookwells for a new starter & thought it was worth the risk so bought one & it works great been in for nearly a year with no problems, link below.
http://www.brookwell.co.uk/item/243/replacement-st...

I will add that one to my list.

Seems a good value proven option at £83.94 including carriage.

Thanks walt762.

Edited by Chimpafrolic on Friday 25th February 00:11

[captaintact]

So why does there seem to be such problems with the Starter/solenoids on these cars? I know it's often said they get very hot near the Manifolds etc but what about the cold starts? Assuming no problems with wiring etc are they poor motors? Surely they can't all be..........

[Cider Andy]

As you can hear the solenoid, it's not an immobiliser or wiring issue. I'd take the motor off and clean up the internals first. Failing that, solenoid replacement. I wouldn't want to waste money replacing a motor that spins properly when it works.

[Chimpafrolic]

Cider Andy said:

As you can hear the solenoid, it's not an immobiliser or wiring issue. I'd take the motor off and clean up the internals first. Failing that, solenoid replacement. I wouldn't want to waste money replacing a motor that spins properly when it works.

Inclined to agree Andy.

Which kind of brings me back to my cheapskate option 4 in my original post, the starter motor solenoid (STC1242) at £30.00 + carriage for a "no name" part.

The thing is if I have gone to the trouble of removing the starter motor, for £50 more I am tempted just to replace the whole unit.

Although the starter motor spins well, its the original by the look of it, so that makes it 14 years old.

With this in mind and combined with my hatred of doing things twice I am still tempted to just fit a whole new unit.

But then again £50.00 is the best part of a tank of fuel

[JonyTVR]

Chimpafrolic said:

nclined to agree Andy.

Which kind of brings me back to my cheapskate option 4 in my original post, the starter motor solenoid (STC1242) at £30.00 + carriage for a "no name" part.

The thing is if I have gone to the trouble of removing the starter motor, for £50 more I am tempted just to replace the whole unit.

Although the starter motor spins well, its the original by the look of it, so that makes it 14 years old.

With this in mind and combined with my hatred of doing things twice I am still tempted to just fit a whole new unit.

But then again £50.00 is the best part of a tank of fuel

I remember on one of my old triumph I had the same problem as you and that i now have on the chim. On that it was a 5min job to whip the starter off and I had a friend who use to refurb them take a look, and hour later with no new parts, just a good clean up inside and it was soooo much better, didnt have a problem from it since, so The starter probably does need a refurb, just a light one, looked like a nightmare to do though if you didnt know what you were doing.

[hamle]

Had the same problem last year,Walt762 recomended fitting the Brookwell starter
which i did and no problem since.
Paul

[fog66]

Fit and forget for £83 ish quid, that's what I'd do. You'll only be sitting in some cold lay-by some day With a dead car and half your 'free' tank of petrol left thinking I should have just changed the bloody thing! As you say it's 14 years old and you don't want to do it twice.

[Colin L]

Or go for the £10 and under fix!!!

I had this problem, but fixed it with a simple by-pass, a Starter Button, hidden under the dash, do the normal thing, key turn it, but before the final turn off the key, just touch the button and the starter gets the full kick from the battery and starts every time.

Its a simple by-pass wire direct from battery with in-line fuse to starter button, then button to starter motor.

The alarm etc all work as normal and if you got in with no key you can just touch the button and have the starter turn over, but it will not start with the key in to complete the system.

Its a simple fix and works for me, may not be to all tastes, but you dont even see the button and was in for a service and they did not even know it was there till I picked her up and started her up.

Colin L

[JonyTVR]

just a heads up, you can get the same one as from brookwells on ebay for quite abit less! Think Thats my mind made up!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

[Chimpafrolic]

JonyTVR said:

just a heads up, you can get the same one as from brookwells on ebay for quite abit less! Think Thats my mind made up!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

Well spotted Jony, thanks mate just ordered it.

I very nearly bought a luxury PowerLite gear reduction starter at Race Retro yesterday for £150.00.

It seems everyone and their dog were selling gear reduction starters at the show, and I can see why.

When I got one it my hand it was obvious what you are paying your £150.00 - £200.00 for, they are nothing more than a converted Nipon Denso gear reduction starter like I used to fit to fork lift trucks!

A new Nipon Denso gear reduction starter should be about £85.00 trade, so there is big profit in doing the conversion.

No wonder lots of people are getting in on it

To me the standard motor is well up to the job, so JonyTVR's find on Ebay at £65.50 including postage has to be a no brainer.

Accordion to the description its made by Prestolite, I have fitted many of their starters in the past and I cant recall one ever coming back, so the quality is fine.

My last observation would simply be that there cant be many 150mph sports cars out there where a new starter motor will only set you back £65.50

The PH TVR community strikes again saving me a good few quid, thanks chaps

Dave.

[JonyTVR]

yup I ordered one off him too, I'm just trying to find some heat shield material stuff to wrap around it, any idea where you can get it from?

[Chimpafrolic]

JonyTVR said:

yup I ordered one off him too, I'm just trying to find some heat shield material stuff to wrap around it, any idea where you can get it from?

I think I might use a pair of my old underpants, if they have proved they can survive a year with me I think they can handle more or less anything

[JonyTVR]

All fitted and have to say it turns over ALOT quicker! can use it abit more now that I dont have to worry about it starting anywhere I go!

[spend]

I wasted the solenoid on my Prestolite after a few years BTW.

[kirknisbet]

is it the same starter as a cerb