Thinking of changing to a 1x10 for MTB
Discussion
I've got a Cove Stiffee that has recently chewed through its rear derailer. It's a 3x9 set up just now. I'm thinking of possibly changing to a 1x10. I have to admit though, that on steeper climbs I tend to granny gear it quite a lot. Will I need to seriously man up if I ditch the bottom ring or will the 1x10 have enough range? Would be nice to lose the front mech and stick on a bash ring instead.....
Most riding done on the Stanes in Scotland, mostly Glentress, Inners and Newcastleton.
Opinions please!
Most riding done on the Stanes in Scotland, mostly Glentress, Inners and Newcastleton.
Opinions please!
I'd say for trail centre riding it's the way forward for sure - there's nothing particularly steep at any of those centres apart from around 1/3 way round the black at GT (it's the only bit I can't climb there on a singlespeed).
But if you're riding natural stuff too it might be a pain. I thought about changing from my 2x9 setup to 1x10 but I need the bigger range of gears for the very steep stuff (yes, I'd be quicker walking at times but that's not the point!). I did "gear inch" calculations and decided to stick with my 26t/40t rings and 34-11t cassette, with a chain device.
But if you're riding natural stuff too it might be a pain. I thought about changing from my 2x9 setup to 1x10 but I need the bigger range of gears for the very steep stuff (yes, I'd be quicker walking at times but that's not the point!). I did "gear inch" calculations and decided to stick with my 26t/40t rings and 34-11t cassette, with a chain device.
10speed requires a shorter space between shifts so those little inaccuracies caused by mud and grit in the shifters and mech will make more of a diference. Go for 1x9 if going single-chainring. 10 speed won't give you much more of a ratio spread over 9 speed, maybe another tooth or 2 on the sprokets.
Downhilling? Single chainring is the only way to go because of the way the bike is thrown about you'll lose the chain too often.
XC? Up to you, no real point and a lot of hassle, having a chainring you can get up all hills in 1st means you'll easily run out of pedalling on the downhills and have to sit there and coast.
Up to you. Try doing a complete ride in middle ring and see if you like it.
Downhilling? Single chainring is the only way to go because of the way the bike is thrown about you'll lose the chain too often.
XC? Up to you, no real point and a lot of hassle, having a chainring you can get up all hills in 1st means you'll easily run out of pedalling on the downhills and have to sit there and coast.
Up to you. Try doing a complete ride in middle ring and see if you like it.
You can work out your gear ratios on the Sheldon Brown site and by changing the chain ring size you should be able to work out which set up suits you best http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
I'd quite like to go 1 x 10 but I use my 22/34 granny ring quite a lot so it's not going to suit my riding.
I'd quite like to go 1 x 10 but I use my 22/34 granny ring quite a lot so it's not going to suit my riding.
Thanks guys,some good advice there! I think I'll keep the 9 for now although I may still drop the big ring from the front. Looks like too much cost for not enough gain.
I have done the GT Red Route all in the middle ring before (due to the front mech not working properly) and it was pretty hard work but far from impossible!
I have done the GT Red Route all in the middle ring before (due to the front mech not working properly) and it was pretty hard work but far from impossible!
Dibblington said:
10speed requires a shorter space between shifts so those little inaccuracies caused by mud and grit in the shifters and mech will make more of a diference.
That's what I thought at first, but apparently 10-speed is more accurate that 9-speed. 10-speed MTB pulls almost double the amount of cable compared to 9-speed MTB (similar ratio to SRAM stuff), so those inaccuracies caused by mud/grit will actually make LESS of a difference. And 10-speed Shimano MTB stuff also works on a different cable pull ratio compared to 10-speed Shimano road stuff!Dibblington said:
You could get a larger granny and middle ring and fit a bashguard
That's what I'd suggest too, but then I'm biased as that's what I have on both my geared bikes. I reckon 26/38t chainrings and 34-11t cassette would be the ultimate combination, but sensible-priced 38t rings are hard to come by so I run a 36t on one bike and a 40t on this one:
2010-11-08 456ss (5) by Ally Mitchell, on Flickr
I manage OK on a 1x9 set up with an 11-34 cassette & 34t or 36t single chain ring. My rigid bike with 700/29 wheels manages trail centres fine with a single 39t chainring though it is very light.
I'll probably go 1x10 with an 11-36 cassette for my next off road build.
Alternatively, I do like the look of Sturmey Archers S-RF5 5 speed hub - 256% range, 1060g for £120 including bar mounted changer. 600-800g lighter than either Nexus or Rohloff hubs, cheaper than Nexus & much, much cheaper than Rohloff - if only they made a disc specific version as their 8speed system is much heavier.
I'll probably go 1x10 with an 11-36 cassette for my next off road build.
Alternatively, I do like the look of Sturmey Archers S-RF5 5 speed hub - 256% range, 1060g for £120 including bar mounted changer. 600-800g lighter than either Nexus or Rohloff hubs, cheaper than Nexus & much, much cheaper than Rohloff - if only they made a disc specific version as their 8speed system is much heavier.
Pablo16v said:
You can work out your gear ratios on the Sheldon Brown site and by changing the chain ring size you should be able to work out which set up suits you best http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
I'd quite like to go 1 x 10 but I use my 22/34 granny ring quite a lot so it's not going to suit my riding.
Sheldon never fails to deliver! Not used that widget before.I'd quite like to go 1 x 10 but I use my 22/34 granny ring quite a lot so it's not going to suit my riding.
I'm amazed how much cross over there is on my 11-32 / 22-32-44.
Turns out that 11-34 26/36 has almost exactly the same spread of gears....
theboymoon said:
Bolton will be along when he sees this, recently converted to a 1x10 (using a road mech for added cheek) on his spicy 


H'actually, I now don't use a road mech. Apparantly, after many hours myself trying to index the ruddy thing, you can't use road mechs - the cable throw is ever so slightly different.
I had to go for an XT 10 spd mech instead.
Do it. Best upgrade I've ever done really. You really do notice how much simpler it is, and I'm finding I use more of the gears than I did before as I really hated dropping into the middle ring - rather I just mashed the big ring.
Ace in the mud too.



Love the muddy bike pic Neil 
A tip to do away with that lower strap on your crud catcher: just drill an additional hole in the mudguard in line with the nearest cable mount bolt on the downtube. Done it with mine:

2010-08-15 (4) by Ally Mitchell, on Flickr

A tip to do away with that lower strap on your crud catcher: just drill an additional hole in the mudguard in line with the nearest cable mount bolt on the downtube. Done it with mine:

2010-08-15 (4) by Ally Mitchell, on Flickr
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