Pictures needed for tunnel mod

[wessexrfc]

We are just about to take out the rad for replacement, does anyone have any pictures of the front adaption into the air box, been looking at Davids pics, but can't see the air box adaption. Any info greatly recived!!

[TuxMan]

Hope this helps

[andygtt]

how did you physically put it into the tunnel?

[jdearden]

Wen I did mine I just pushed the pipes through the hole. And they have been fine. Also cut my holes whilst still on car. It took about 15 mins to do.

[joust]

Search is your friend.....

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... out, how to do tunnel mod

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... cooling Mod Complete!!

J

[wessexrfc]

Thanks to all, forgot about the search facitity due to it being down for so long. Took the laptop down to the garage with me so they could see how its done R0162 (Chris) made a good sugestion about sealing of the holes in the air box with a couple of spray can lids, fits well.

Now just the rad, clutch master cylinder, chassis treatment, drivers seat adjustment, reseal, service, fresh 28's turbos, and remap.

Getting a knocking from aroound the passanger side bulk head, engine mounts seem ok. Get it on power lift off, any other ideas??

[hollowpockets]

wessexrfc said:

Thanks to all, forgot about the search facitity due to it being down for so long. Took the laptop down to the garage with me so they could see how its done R0162 (Chris) made a good sugestion about sealing of the holes in the air box with a couple of spray can lids, fits well.

Now just the rad, clutch master cylinder, chassis treatment, drivers seat adjustment, reseal, service, fresh 28's turbos, and remap.

Getting a knocking from aroound the passanger side bulk head, engine mounts seem ok. Get it on power lift off, any other ideas??

Sounds like im going through the same motions as you with the mods.

I've had a knocking noise similar to what you describe but it was the drive shaft on its way out.

G

[R0162]

btw you see those 3 little thin strips of metal on the tunnel sealing plate, i decided to cut them off on my latest mod, they are so pointless, you still have big air gaps all round.

After cutting it off square at the top of the arches, i put a bigger rubber strip across, it allows all the pipes to lay flat at the bottom of the tunnel entrance and it creates a better seal.
Unfortunately i did not take pics of the latest mod.

[Rob_W]

R0162 said:

btw you see those 3 little thin strips of metal on the tunnel sealing plate, i decided to cut them off on my latest mod, they are so pointless, you still have big air gaps all round.

After cutting it off square at the top of the arches, i put a bigger rubber strip across, it allows all the pipes to lay flat at the bottom of the tunnel entrance and it creates a better seal.
Unfortunately i did not take pics of the latest mod.

+1 did exactly the same myself.

[joust]

wessexrfc said:

Getting a knocking from aroound the passanger side bulk head, engine mounts seem ok. Get it on power lift off, any other ideas??

Loose turbo allowing the exhaust to hit the chassis rails?

J

[R0162]

joust said:

oose turbo allowing the exhaust to hit the chassis rails?

J

If it stock exhaust then they are prone to shaking loose as it is lacking flexi joints, definately worth checking.
Is it a singular knock when lifting off or multiple? and does i sound like metal on metal?
When accelerating are you getting resonating exhaust frequency through the cabin as if it is getting transfered through the chassis?

[wessexrfc]

Sounds just like an engine mount, the guys are looking into it. It has an upgraded exhaust system, but will check the turbos etc as well

[joust]

wessexrfc said:

Sounds just like an engine mount, the guys are looking into it. It has an upgraded exhaust system, but will check the turbos etc as well

My Roush system knocks like buggery every time the turbo/manifold comes loose.

J

[chuntington101]

on the tunnel mod, is there any way of taking air from after its been through the rad? Just thinmking this air is just going to be forced over the top of the car anywa, might as well use a little bit of it to help reduce tunnel and engine bay temps. or would the air be to warm to offer any help??????

[key750]

this is my tunnel plate with custom tube position:

[GC1]

When I did my Mod I didn't bother putting the plate back,just rested the pipes into the hole,you could if you wanted fill with expanding foam.....I left mine all open made job quicker and you might get extra air in as a bonus......

[R0162]

chuntington101 said:

on the tunnel mod, is there any way of taking air from after its been through the rad? Just thinmking this air is just going to be forced over the top of the car anywa, might as well use a little bit of it to help reduce tunnel and engine bay temps. or would the air be to warm to offer any help??????

The air would be too warm, it gets stinking hot in the tunnel, hot enough to scorch and melt things, so to be effective it has to be cold air from the front.
As it is, by the time the air exits the tunnel at the engine side it is already very hot, which is not ideal for helping to reduce engine bay temps.

[wessexrfc]

To be fair, this mod is very easy to do, my guys just adapted the plate that was there and we then sealed the gaps. It doesn't have to be a work of art as once done and every thing fitted back (can be done with air box in place) you can't see it.

Will soon be ready for re-sealing. My chassis, when the lads showed me without the pannels is like new!!! honest its perfect,(had some wiered stuff run out of the chassis when they removed the rivets, they didn't think it was waxoil as it set very hard???) The factory used some form of rubber to seal, don't think its silicone, still undecided on what to use to re-seal mine. I was looking at using a armaflex type tape, with a bead of quality silicone. Thing is, I dont want the tape to hold any water and damage my lovely chassis. What is the preferred method???

[chuntington101]

R0162 said:

The air would be too warm, it gets stinking hot in the tunnel, hot enough to scorch and melt things, so to be effective it has to be cold air from the front.
As it is, by the time the air exits the tunnel at the engine side it is already very hot, which is not ideal for helping to reduce engine bay temps.

Yeah i thought as much. Just thinking you could get MUCH grater volumes of air by taking it post rad than you can off the brake ducts. I guess the other problem is is that you want the sapce post rad to be at negative presure (compeard to the front of the rad) to help pull air through. by venting back to the engine you MAY get the air being suck out of the engine and down the tunnel! that would obviously not be very helpfull! lol

I have been googleing but cant seem to find anything. Is there any way of using the high presure air around the wheel arches? Just thinking that the air there is already high presure and shouldn't be too hot. Its a problem normally so why not put it to good use?......

[Chapppers]

Anyone know what diameter hose to buy? Thanks