Rear camber.
Author
Discussion

mickrick

Original Poster:

3,747 posts

194 months

Wednesday 2nd March 2011
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Hello, I'd be interested to hear anyone's oppinions on running 2 degrees of rear camber with Avon CR500's. 245/50 x 13's.
I realise it may not be good for getting traction off the mark, but better for the twisties I think.
Anyone care to comment?

TIA,
Mick.

sam919

1,078 posts

217 months

Wednesday 2nd March 2011
quotequote all
Whats the reason for 2.0? 1.5, apart from some ears being made to that, seems to work fine?

mickrick

Original Poster:

3,747 posts

194 months

Thursday 3rd March 2011
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It's not possible to get ears for radial mounted calipers in 1.5 degree, only the lug mounted ones.
Race ears are only 1/4 degree.
I have some 2 degree JPE ones for radial mount calipers though.
But the JPE ran 205/60 13 Yokohama's.

EFA

1,666 posts

284 months

Saturday 5th March 2011
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Mick, I ran the 2 deg radial mounts on K2RUM. No problems with traction!

mickrick

Original Poster:

3,747 posts

194 months

Saturday 5th March 2011
quotequote all
Cheers! cool I can use them for now then.
I wonder why they where only used on the JPE though? confused

EFA

1,666 posts

284 months

Saturday 5th March 2011
quotequote all
Mick,

It was a tyre thing. JPE had radials. The other cars did not have the big rear brakes - unless optional on the SLR etc of that era which ran ACB10's. ACB10's being of crossply construction needed much less -ve camber.

Things got very different when the CR500 was introduced.

I understand Caterham are now using a new tyre whihc also requires more camber on the front. I have it on good authority that the satd top joint does not allow enough camber to be applied. Your top joints, from the tird batch feature an increased thread to accomodate this requirement.

mickrick

Original Poster:

3,747 posts

194 months

Saturday 5th March 2011
quotequote all
That's the thing. I want to use CR500's, and I'm assuming they work better with 1.5 degree camber.
I've been chewing this over, and I think ultimately I may have to get new ears made, with the caliper bracket integral with the ear. As opposed to an adapter bolted to the ear. Then I can go to whatever camber I like.
I think that will make more sense. I can also get the mounts machined into the ear for one of those spot calipers that Hi-Spec make for the hand brake. Iffy, but fit for purpose.
Found some nice single piston AP calipers that weigh 1.1 kg. Think I'll go for 267mm x 9.7 solid disc for the rears. And some more of those sexy BGD bells of course. smile

Dave J

905 posts

287 months

Sunday 6th March 2011
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0.5 / 1.5 /2.0 makes next to no difference for road use in my experience unless you are seeking that last 2/10ths over your favourite strech of road !, better off completing a full suspension setup and total alignment of the dedion for camber, toe and improved bushes and rod ends on the watts linkage.

EFA

1,666 posts

284 months

Sunday 6th March 2011
quotequote all
The extra 0.5 deg is not critical. You will never tell the difference.

You can, in any case shim the ears to get the correct camber/toe. All the racers and well set you road cars have had this done.

Parallel for Watts link or light engines. 1 deg of toe out if you have a boat anchor VX up front.

mickrick

Original Poster:

3,747 posts

194 months

Monday 7th March 2011
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Luvverly. Thanks for the replies chaps! cool