This will make me look decidedly un-pistonhead.....
Discussion
But I'm not, I've just not done this before because I've not had many cars and changed them regularly.
Oil change, what should the oil come out like? Treacle, all black and viscous?
3.7litres to drain, how long should that take? About 30s, or a few minutes?
Just trying to get a measure of the state of the oil coming out.
Cheers all.
Oil change, what should the oil come out like? Treacle, all black and viscous?
3.7litres to drain, how long should that take? About 30s, or a few minutes?
Just trying to get a measure of the state of the oil coming out.
Cheers all.
It'll be black. Don't panic unless it's very obviously brown.
Let up warm up a little before you change the oil and it'll drain faster (but not to temp or you'll burn yourself).
As above circa 5 minutes but as it's pouring out you can busy yourself with loosening off the oil filter. Don't remove it until the flow of oil has slowed to a trickle though or you'll end up making a massive mess.
Don't forget to lubricate the new oil filter rubber ring using the old oil.
Let up warm up a little before you change the oil and it'll drain faster (but not to temp or you'll burn yourself).
As above circa 5 minutes but as it's pouring out you can busy yourself with loosening off the oil filter. Don't remove it until the flow of oil has slowed to a trickle though or you'll end up making a massive mess.
Don't forget to lubricate the new oil filter rubber ring using the old oil.
As has been said, warm the thing up till the engine sump feels warm to the touch.
If the sump plug is on the side /corner then be prepared for the oil to shoot out 6-9" sideways when you undo the plug.
Use a new sump plug washer (usually copper)
Best to wear pvc/rubber gloves as well. You might accidentally drop the sump plug in the oil drain pan , if you do , a magnetic pic up tool is a handy thing to have.
When its empty, clean the threads of the plug & the sump with a paper towel & be careful when you thread the plug back in - a world of angst if you cross-thread it. You might find it feels quite tight & doesn't screw in easily, that's not unusual. Also check how tight it should be and don't overtighten it.
Lastly, don't forget to put the plug back in the bottom before you pour the fresh oil in the top !
If the sump plug is on the side /corner then be prepared for the oil to shoot out 6-9" sideways when you undo the plug.
Use a new sump plug washer (usually copper)
Best to wear pvc/rubber gloves as well. You might accidentally drop the sump plug in the oil drain pan , if you do , a magnetic pic up tool is a handy thing to have.
When its empty, clean the threads of the plug & the sump with a paper towel & be careful when you thread the plug back in - a world of angst if you cross-thread it. You might find it feels quite tight & doesn't screw in easily, that's not unusual. Also check how tight it should be and don't overtighten it.
Lastly, don't forget to put the plug back in the bottom before you pour the fresh oil in the top !

Also, the oil will come out pretty fast so it's unlikely to drop straight down like a tap. On both my cars it travels a good few inches forward of the hole before gravity gets a grip on it, so make sure whatever you're catching it in is wide enough to allow for that.
Obviously it'll still go down your arm, as is tradition
Obviously it'll still go down your arm, as is tradition

mrmr96 said:
At risk of stating the obvious;
Run the car to warm the oil, then TURN IT OFF whilst you drain the oil, else it will be running with no oil in.
Also, remember to put the sump plug back in before re-filling...
Do you have reason to suspect the original poster is missing a chromosome or something?Run the car to warm the oil, then TURN IT OFF whilst you drain the oil, else it will be running with no oil in.
Also, remember to put the sump plug back in before re-filling...
If so he'll be long dead under a poorly jacked car before that happens...
paulrockliffe said:
But I'm not, I've just not done this before because I've not had many cars and changed them regularly.
Oil change, what should the oil come out like? Treacle, all black and viscous?
3.7litres to drain, how long should that take? About 30s, or a few minutes?
Just trying to get a measure of the state of the oil coming out.
Cheers all.
Out of curiosity, what car is it on?Oil change, what should the oil come out like? Treacle, all black and viscous?
3.7litres to drain, how long should that take? About 30s, or a few minutes?
Just trying to get a measure of the state of the oil coming out.
Cheers all.
I have done many services on various cars so don’t bother with manuals but got a little thrown when I first did a service on the wife’s Polo as the oil filter element is in the top of the engine and is a paper filter not one in a metal container. Also it needs to be tightened up to a set torque which isn’t usually the case in my experience. I managed to break some tiny little pieces of plastic off the dam thing so the car was laid up until I could get a replacement, I felt a bit of a plum! What I am saying is, do your background work/prep so that there are no surprises.
Wow, thanks chaps, wasn't expecting so many replies!
Don't worry, I've got just the exactly the right number and diversity of Chromosomes, so the car was jacked, put on axle stands, then the weight taken partly on the jack, just to make sure I didn't get crushed!
It's a Nissan Primera, the sump plug is on the back of the sump, at a 45 degree angle. I'd already popped that off when I asked the question, I was expecting the oil to need to be caught a bit back from the sump due to the pressure, but it flowed very slowly and came straight down horizontally. It looked a lot like treacle too, so I thought I should ask the question.
I didn't warm the engine, but I had removed the filler cap, filter ready to go etc.
The reason I was changing the oil was that the low pressure warning light was flickering on at low revs once warmed through. Remedy was going to be new oil, new pressure switch, then new pump. but new oil seems to have sorted that out. Have run it up to temperature and all seems fine now. Which is nice.
Interested to know why the old oil was causing low pressure though if anyone has any wild and wonderful theories?
Thanks!
Don't worry, I've got just the exactly the right number and diversity of Chromosomes, so the car was jacked, put on axle stands, then the weight taken partly on the jack, just to make sure I didn't get crushed!
It's a Nissan Primera, the sump plug is on the back of the sump, at a 45 degree angle. I'd already popped that off when I asked the question, I was expecting the oil to need to be caught a bit back from the sump due to the pressure, but it flowed very slowly and came straight down horizontally. It looked a lot like treacle too, so I thought I should ask the question.
I didn't warm the engine, but I had removed the filler cap, filter ready to go etc.
The reason I was changing the oil was that the low pressure warning light was flickering on at low revs once warmed through. Remedy was going to be new oil, new pressure switch, then new pump. but new oil seems to have sorted that out. Have run it up to temperature and all seems fine now. Which is nice.
Interested to know why the old oil was causing low pressure though if anyone has any wild and wonderful theories?
Thanks!

Get yourself one of these.
You don't have to take the sump plug off, jack the car up or take the undertray off (if you have one). Just stick the pipe down the dip stick tube and suck away.

ETA Don't forget to re-check oil after you've finished as you need to run it for 60 secs, as it needs to fill up oil filter.
Edited by GTIR on Thursday 3rd March 14:52
GTIR said:

Get yourself one of these.
You don't have to take the sump plug off, jack the car up or take the undertray off (if you have one). Just stick the pipe down the dip stick tube and suck away.

ETA Don't forget to re-check oil after you've finished as you need to run it for 60 secs, as it needs to fill up oil filter.
Edited by GTIR on Thursday 3rd March 14:52
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