Discussion
Has anybody fitted a full set or do you have any tips for the replacement of any of the bushes? At the weekend and through the week ill be doing all of them after ordering the full kit off Steve. I seem to remember last time i brought it up there was talk of blow torches and 20tonne presses 
I have access to a press at work if i need it but was kind of hoping not!
I have access to a press at work if i need it but was kind of hoping not!Onzlouk said:
Has anybody fitted a full set or do you have any tips for the replacement of any of the bushes? At the weekend and through the week ill be doing all of them after ordering the full kit off Steve. I seem to remember last time i brought it up there was talk of blow torches and 20tonne presses I have access to a press at work if i need it but was kind of hoping not!
Having just watched my next door neighbour replace his Cerb bushes with the Poly ones from Steve Heath, my over riding thoughts are that it was not a difficult job aside from removing the diff bush which was a swine to get out - more so given the lack of access to swing a decent hammer or get a chisel near it. I have access to a press at work if i need it but was kind of hoping not!Soak the bushes with WD 40 for a few days and you will save yourself meeting Cerberus himself one day given the amout of swearing accompanying this job.
Do a search and you should find some helpful info on this forum.
Good luck!
Most of them aren't that bad - a blow torch, hacksaw, socket set, old screwdriver and a hammer are all you need. Heat the centre of the bush up until the rubber is burning and you should be able to push the metal centre and and rubber surround out by hand. Then hacksaw carefully through the outer metal sleeve, knock the screwdriver between the bush and the wishbone to break any bond and knock the bush out with a suitable size socket. Ten minutes tops per bush - easy!
Mine were an absolute swine.
Got a few out with the hacksaw/blowtorch method, and a few more with that plus a home-made press, but there were about half a dozen that refused to come out without a *lot* more persuasion - the local engineering shop couldn't even move them with the 10-ton press. Ended up having to make special 'blanks' for each size of hole and pushing them out on the big 50-ton jobbie.
Oh, and IMO don't swap the rear ARB bushes for poly - Paul and Health at X-Works told me that they tried a wide variety of bush hardnesses in the original development, and going any harder than the OEM rubber could cause cracks in the chassis.
Got a few out with the hacksaw/blowtorch method, and a few more with that plus a home-made press, but there were about half a dozen that refused to come out without a *lot* more persuasion - the local engineering shop couldn't even move them with the 10-ton press. Ended up having to make special 'blanks' for each size of hole and pushing them out on the big 50-ton jobbie.
Oh, and IMO don't swap the rear ARB bushes for poly - Paul and Health at X-Works told me that they tried a wide variety of bush hardnesses in the original development, and going any harder than the OEM rubber could cause cracks in the chassis.
Edited by Nefarious on Friday 4th March 11:13
Nefarious said:
Mine were an absolute swine.
Mine too - I managed in the end with a 20T press - but only just!They do seem to vary dramatically, some people report it as being an easy job, others struggle. I guess you will find out which yours is going to be when you try.
One thing is for sure - the two part poly bushes are a lot easier to get out at a later date if you have to!
Nefarious said:
Oh, and IMO don't swap the rear ARB bushes for poly - Paul and Health at X-Works told me that they tried a wide variety of bush hardnesses in the original development, and going any harder than the OEM rubber could cause cracks in the chassis.
That surprises me, do you mean cracks in the welds?.Nefarious said:
Mine were an absolute swine.
Oh, and IMO don't swap the rear ARB bushes for poly - Paul and Health at X-Works told me that they tried a wide variety of bush hardnesses in the original development, and going any harder than the OEM rubber could cause cracks in the chassis.
That doesnt sound good, i have the replacements here to change this weekend.Oh, and IMO don't swap the rear ARB bushes for poly - Paul and Health at X-Works told me that they tried a wide variety of bush hardnesses in the original development, and going any harder than the OEM rubber could cause cracks in the chassis.
Anybody care to elaborate?
Onzlouk said:
That doesnt sound good, i have the replacements here to change this weekend.
Anybody care to elaborate?
Rear anti roll bar is not suited to the car anyway. Remove it completely and add a couple of clicks to the dampers/ change the spring rates for something slightly stiffer. Better ride, better traction, better balance (if done correctly) in our experience. Anybody care to elaborate?
I would think carefully about the rear arb and bushes. You can remove the arb or disconnct it whcih is great for wet weather grip but in the dry if you are pressing on the feel from the rear of the car is less consistent on the limit and the car can be less predictable when sliding. I tried my cerb with and without the rear arb and came to the conclusion (via data logging) that it was quciker around the track with it, it was certainly easier to drive on the limit with it. The bushes is another matter - i am not sure how stiff you want the bushes to be but i always used the original rubber bushes to retain a little bit if give. It is very easy to set up a car too stiff or too low and just make it horrible and twitchy rather than quick.
jesfirth said:
I would think carefully about the rear arb and bushes. You can remove the arb or disconnct it whcih is great for wet weather grip but in the dry if you are pressing on the feel from the rear of the car is less consistent on the limit and the car can be less predictable when sliding. I tried my cerb with and without the rear arb and came to the conclusion (via data logging) that it was quciker around the track with it, it was certainly easier to drive on the limit with it. The bushes is another matter - i am not sure how stiff you want the bushes to be but i always used the original rubber bushes to retain a little bit if give. It is very easy to set up a car too stiff or too low and just make it horrible and twitchy rather than quick.
Depends on the driver, the suspension set up, how used to the car handling that way etc etc... I know it worked well for you with it on, but Martin Short always swore it was better off, and IIRC you didnt trial it without for very long - did you change the springs at all? I remember you saying it felt better with a bit more rebound dialed in at Curborough? I maintain, for a Cerbera, losing the rear anti-roll bar and stiffening up the rear marginally (and the front massively) produces a more tractable and less likely to suffer roll oversteer car. 
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