Piping up Nitrous

[DaveL485]

I'm planning on having a Nitrous setup on my car, and want to use direct port.
I have almost everything I need save for some braided lines between the solenoids and distribution blocks which are being made.

The question: I intend to make the lines from the DB's to the foggers from copper line...it takes high pressure, the ends are easy to make (a-la brake lines) and it's easy to route. Can anyone forsee issues with this?
Mock up for fittings-



End product should be similar to-

[TheEnd]

I know someone with a melted engine from the nitrous taking an easier preferential route to certain cylinders so try to keep the pipework similar between the jets.

[stevieturbo]

Does a typical brake flaring tool use the same cone angles as those NOS jets ?

Other than that, cant see any reason why it wont work. But use decent Kunifer piping most cheap copper stuff really is crap.

[DaveL485]

TheEnd said:

I know someone with a melted engine from the nitrous taking an easier preferential route to certain cylinders so try to keep the pipework similar between the jets.

Yes, plan to run equal length pipes. Have a lot of monitoring going on with the management too so hope it'll be OK!

stevieturbo said:

Does a typical brake flaring tool use the same cone angles as those NOS jets ?

Other than that, cant see any reason why it wont work. But use decent Kunifer piping most cheap copper stuff really is crap.

Close enough, I think. From finger tightening the fitting down I can see where the pipe has sealed over the jet when looking at the end after removal.
I'll bear in mind the point on the Kunifer piping, thankyou!

Cheers

[stevieturbo]

And of more importance, is the flaring tool.

I would only use a proper Sykes style tool.

I have one of the cheapy ones, and TBH they are crap. Yes they can make some ok flares etc, but they are still crap.

This is their portable version, and really very good value.

http://www.uktools.com/flaremaster-brake-pipe-flar...

or check egay for "sykes brake flaring" and many options come up. Either vice mounted or portable.
Their's are some of the best flaring tools Ive ever used, although there are many similar copies I havent used. The Sykes Pickavant produce an OEM quality flare easily, every time.

[DaveL485]

The flare needs to be the opposite to a brake pipe flare... So instead of creating a knuckle at the end it's more a cone shape where the pipe flares out like the end of a trumpet. It's a type 2 flare according to the guy at pirtek who did the sample for me.
Looking around the kits with that type included are substantial £££, so I think I'll cut the pipe to length and get them
to do the ends for me. I'm not spending £200 odd for 8 flares lol

[stevieturbo]

DaveL485 said:

The flare needs to be the opposite to a brake pipe flare... So instead of creating a knuckle at the end it's more a cone shape where the pipe flares out like the end of a trumpet. It's a type 2 flare according to the guy at pirtek who did the sample for me.
Looking around the kits with that type included are substantial £££, so I think I'll cut the pipe to length and get them
to do the ends for me. I'm not spending £200 odd for 8 flares lol

Most flaring tools can do single or doubles. But the cheapy tools are generally crap at both, although they can be used.
Often you need to use soft copper with the cheap tools, simply because they arent that good. The soft copper is easier to seal if things arent just 100%

[Steve_D]

A quick question..non of these pipes are going from the engine across to the bulkhead are they?

Steve

[stevieturbo]

Steve_D said:

A quick question..non of these pipes are going from the engine across to the bulkhead are they?

Steve

I think those pipes arent installed yet. But yes they absolutely must be flexible pipes

[DaveL485]

Steve_D said:

A quick question..non of these pipes are going from the engine across to the bulkhead are they?

Steve

Oh hell no, thats stainless braided stuff. The bottle will be in the back, braided line up through the bulkhead to the solenoids in the engine bay. Then braided lines from the solenoid to the DB's which will be the 'moving' line for the body-engine movement. The DB's will then be secured static in relation to the solid lines and foggers.
The fuel line will take off the swirl pot in a similar fashion....the swirl pot has its own dedicated in/out for the NoS system and will have its own pump and reg too which activates on the 'Arm' switch, ready for the trigger, which will likely be either a throttle microswitch or an aux output from the standalone when the TPS signals 100%.

Good of you to check though i'm sure death would ensue if the solid lines were in the wrong place!

[gerradiuk]

Dave, just one thing if you just have the copper pipe going as in the photo's without any spiraling you will find that after time it will fail & snap due to vibration & the cold temps of the Nitrous inside.
If you look at LPG installations you will see that where the fuel pipe(Plastic covered copper) comes into the Fuel filter that on route from there they are always spiraled at least twice to stop any such breakage's ie snapping.

All the pipe work should really be the exact same I.D. around 4mm is best & nylon. If you have pipework that has differing I.D. then you are leaving yourself open to the possibility of the Nitrous gassing & expanding so when it reach's the fogger it will give you problems in a big way.Tthis is also the reason that you should use nylon pipe & site the solenoids in a cool a place as possible, ! I have seen some terrible installations where people fit the solenoids to the engine , asking for trouble if you floor it ! The best is nylon lines as WOZ use 4mm & very easy to route safely. Where are the jets situated on this kit? The reason I ask is the same as the pipework answer, if you have jets at the solenoids & use metal pipeing to flow the nitrous you will have it expanding before it hits the fogger & bang!

good luck dave

HTH;)

[chuntington101]

dont forget that with metal lines the N2O will absorb more of the engine bay heat.