help wiring this light switch

[essexrobb]

hi sorry for starting another thread but i couldnt see how to chang the title in my old one to ask for urgent help, we had these GET switches in our house when moved in, i had a problem with one so i replaced it and wired it the same way as the light before, but having the lights off at the wall sometimes the lightbulbs woudl come into life, come on and go off and i wonder if it was wired incorrectly in the first place... ive took a pic of what it looked like wired up and the connections on the back..

any help much appreciated or any ideas on why the light would keep going on and of, as i say i change the switch its selt and its a double switch one of the lights is fine.


these are the connections, the red wire is in the L and the red wire with black sleeve is in the switched live symbol terminal.




this is how its wired.

Edited by essexrobb on Saturday 5th March 15:22

Edited by essexrobb on Saturday 5th March 15:24

[hairyben]

Not ever fitted GET "digital dimmers", I'm assuming they're touch-control?

Cabling *looks* right, insofar as the red *should* be live and the black switched live, and the L and ~ terminals look right, (with RS being repeater/slave for extra retractive swiches.) You could turn the light off and make sure the red/black is wired in the standard way, ie with the light off but power on you should have 230v to red to earth.

you could also try swapping the dimmer modules over to see if the fault swaps.

Also, do the buttons/plate have little black windows/IR recievers? If so try covering them with tape... the more common D&T brand touch dimmers can be programmed with any infra red command- could be the previous occupier used one that's close to a remote you're using.

Might be worth giving GET technical, part of schneider electrical now, a call:

http://www.schneider-electric.co.uk/sites/uk/en/su...

[cjs]

Is that a blue ground wire I see?

[essexrobb]

hairyben said:

Not ever fitted GET "digital dimmers", I'm assuming they're touch-control?

Cabling *looks* right, insofar as the red *should* be live and the black switched live, and the L and ~ terminals look right, (with RS being repeater/slave for extra retractive swiches.) You could turn the light off and make sure the red/black is wired in the standard way, ie with the light off but power on you should have 230v to red to earth.

you could also try swapping the dimmer modules over to see if the fault swaps.

Also, do the buttons/plate have little black windows/IR recievers? If so try covering them with tape... the more common D&T brand touch dimmers can be programmed with any infra red command- could be the previous occupier used one that's close to a remote you're using.

Might be worth giving GET technical, part of schneider electrical now, a call:

http://www.schneider-electric.co.uk/sites/uk/en/su...

hi i rewired them up again perhaps because the wires are so tightly packed in there the modules get hot and it might be causing problems with the light coming on, i havent had any problems since the have been reconnected.. they have buttons will try to upload a picture, they dont have any infra red on them. i did right to GET about the light buttom flasing and he said it was a faulty module and buy a new swich, which i have and now have this problem.

[essexrobb]

cjs said:

Is that a blue ground wire I see?

i just extended the earth from the metal part of the switch to the back box in the wall with the blue wire.....

[davepoth]

essexrobb said:

i just extended the earth from the metal part of the switch to the back box in the wall with the blue wire.....

And that's why the building regs say qualified electricians should do this stuff.

[essexrobb]

davepoth said:

And that's why the building regs say qualified electricians should do this stuff.

i'll swap it for yello and green when i'm done, still trying to get the blasted switch to work correctly, thought i had sorted it but just come back from dinner and the light had turned itself on and would only go down so far and will not switch off, i've had to take the bulbs out. Strange as its a double dimmer and one has never had any problems...

[miniman]

What sort of lights are you trying to dim?

[essexrobb]

miniman said:

What sort of lights are you trying to dim?

hi, on each switch there are three armed chandeliers, which have 3 x 25w bulbs in each light fitting. I cant work out why the one switch is fine, and never had a problem yet this other seems to always have problems.

[poo at Paul's]

regular bulbs? Not eco energy efficient ones are they? (CFLS etc).

Seen some humdinger issues with dimmers with these sco hippy bulbs!!

[essexrobb]

poo at Paul's said:

regular bulbs? Not eco energy efficient ones are they? (CFLS etc).

Seen some humdinger issues with dimmers with these sco hippy bulbs!!

lol, nah there normal candle bulbs, although i suspect the bulbs to start off with as i they were cheap from ebay, bulk buy.. but they have been fine around the rest of the house.

[essexrobb]

losing the will to live on this one!!! lol ive switched the modules around and now its on the other light thats playing up now!!! so it would suggest its the module again then. quick question, do you think there is anything achieved by wiring both lights into the one module, there are only 3 x 25 wt bulbs in each light, 2 lights and on the back on each module it shows 2bulbs on the back = 300W/VA max , thats if i can get all 4 wires into the one switch.

[Morningside]

Oh, what nice looking dimmers.

[miniman]

essexrobb said:

losing the will to live on this one!!! lol ive switched the modules around and now its on the other light thats playing up now!!! so it would suggest its the module again then. quick question, do you think there is anything achieved by wiring both lights into the one module, there are only 3 x 25 wt bulbs in each light, 2 lights and on the back on each module it shows 2bulbs on the back = 300W/VA max , thats if i can get all 4 wires into the one switch.

Yes providing the total load doesn't exceed 300W.

For anyone interested they are the GET Grid system which is excellent - you can mix and match dimmers (including IR remote ones) and switches in various combinations from 2 to 10 or more per faceplate.

[hairyben]

miniman said:

For anyone interested they are the GET Grid system which is excellent .

Yes they seem it

OP it's worth trying 40w lamps, many dimmers don't like being run with minimal load, and 75w on a 60-300 dimmer is pretty low.

[essexrobb]

wil get some bigger lamps, possibility that ive burnt the modules out although id expect more from GET considering how much they cost. Ive wired both upto the same module at the mo and will go and see if i can get some bigger bulbs..

thanks for the replies