tool for removing oz split rim bolts
Discussion
with regards to the rims....
you can have the laquers stripped off, and have the rims polished...... these look great but for ever require polishing / cleaning / drying... (which I had done first time I had my wheels refurbed)
I had my rims adonised (refurb No 2), wich means they are slightly duller, but as good as maintance free.... I am told that you can get them "bright" adonised which leaves them nice n shiney (but I haven't actually seen a pair in the flesh)
you can have the laquers stripped off, and have the rims polished...... these look great but for ever require polishing / cleaning / drying... (which I had done first time I had my wheels refurbed)
I had my rims adonised (refurb No 2), wich means they are slightly duller, but as good as maintance free.... I am told that you can get them "bright" adonised which leaves them nice n shiney (but I haven't actually seen a pair in the flesh)
hi thanks for the info but i really want the original look with polished rims,i don't mind the cleaning, i was originally looking for two sets so i could use all the 16" on my car and give all the 15" to keith for his v8s as i have larger than standard bembo brakes i thought the 16" would fit over them, but they are tighter than the 15's, so with a little filing of the caliper bolts and they fit straight over, so im back to refurbing the original set that i have bought, i want to put toyo 888's on but am unsure of the biggest width i can put on the rims, has anyone done this with a set of oz split rims, the backs have 225x55x16 on a 7.5j rim and already bulge over the rim although these are brigdestone so2's and the fronts have 205x55x15 on a 7j rim, again bulging on the rim, so are these widths maximum on these rim widths, i would like to run 888's in 245x45x16 rear and 225x45x15's on the front, would this work and are they available, cheers tim.
You can get the keys from here http://www.titanium-touch.de/
We used to pull these apart and refurb them ..... here's our experience
We looked at how these would live on a customers car and how we refurbished them. The baskets and caps are easy just powder coated as normal, the difficulties arise with the rims. Basically there are 3 options
1. Polish the rims and leave them unprotected, the problem with this, the aluminium is corroding even though it looks shiny, the polishing will get harder and harder to accomplish, so we didn't see this as an option especially when you consider polishing around the bolt heads.
2. Polish the rims and lacquer them prior to assembly. This won't work either, when the bolts are tightened the lacquer will fracture and expose the polished finish to salt and oxygen
3. The option we chose, polish the rims and bright anodise them, this is 90% effective, largly depending on how free your rims are prior to refurbishment. If your rims are pitted before you start the polishing will appear to remove the pitting but the bright anodising process starts by immersing the rim into a brightening solution which makes any embedded pitting bloom and appear like crystals, the rims then have to be more aggressively polished in that area and then re-brightened, this may have to be repeated 3 or 4 times £5 a go for each rim!!!
The rims are then reassembled with Silicon sealant in the join and re-chromed bolts held by locktite.
This process is time consuming and costly, we used to do these wheels regularly and genuinely gave them our best shot, but every set we sent out customers complained about microscopic blooms.....and I MEAN microscopic so we decided not to bother any more, this was compounded by a break-in when about 20 of our exchange OZ rims were stolen and I have no intention of replacing them ....... Good riddance
Hope this clarifies
Gordon
www.pxwheels.com
We used to pull these apart and refurb them ..... here's our experience
We looked at how these would live on a customers car and how we refurbished them. The baskets and caps are easy just powder coated as normal, the difficulties arise with the rims. Basically there are 3 options
1. Polish the rims and leave them unprotected, the problem with this, the aluminium is corroding even though it looks shiny, the polishing will get harder and harder to accomplish, so we didn't see this as an option especially when you consider polishing around the bolt heads.
2. Polish the rims and lacquer them prior to assembly. This won't work either, when the bolts are tightened the lacquer will fracture and expose the polished finish to salt and oxygen
3. The option we chose, polish the rims and bright anodise them, this is 90% effective, largly depending on how free your rims are prior to refurbishment. If your rims are pitted before you start the polishing will appear to remove the pitting but the bright anodising process starts by immersing the rim into a brightening solution which makes any embedded pitting bloom and appear like crystals, the rims then have to be more aggressively polished in that area and then re-brightened, this may have to be repeated 3 or 4 times £5 a go for each rim!!!
The rims are then reassembled with Silicon sealant in the join and re-chromed bolts held by locktite.
This process is time consuming and costly, we used to do these wheels regularly and genuinely gave them our best shot, but every set we sent out customers complained about microscopic blooms.....and I MEAN microscopic so we decided not to bother any more, this was compounded by a break-in when about 20 of our exchange OZ rims were stolen and I have no intention of replacing them ....... Good riddance
Hope this clarifies
Gordon
www.pxwheels.com
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