Break, scrap, sell, or...?
Poll: Break, scrap, sell, or...?
Total Members Polled: 53
Discussion
Wife's 2001 Octavia 4x4 estate has just failed its test - nothing too major, but combined with the cost of getting the timing belt done and fixing a central locking fault, the old girl is "beyond economic repair" at least as far I am concerned - would have to pay labour.
So, PH, what would you do? Is there a market for mk1 Skoda Octavia bits? It's a 4x4 estate so a little bit less common than the usual shagged out hatchbacks.
So, PH, what would you do? Is there a market for mk1 Skoda Octavia bits? It's a 4x4 estate so a little bit less common than the usual shagged out hatchbacks.
Failed on 2x brake pipes corroded, bulbs, headlight aim low and adjuster broken (new headlight), plus about 15 advisories including ball joints etc. - will all need doing next time round.
So far, doesn't sound too bad.
But then it needs:
Timing belt change (£250ish)
Tyre (£50)
Tax (£115ish for 6 months)
Tailgate struts (£?)
Engine management light on (£? to switch off in order to sell)
Diverter valve 'fluttering' (£40ish)
Central locking problem - control module possibly, which is £200
So far, doesn't sound too bad.
But then it needs:
Timing belt change (£250ish)
Tyre (£50)
Tax (£115ish for 6 months)
Tailgate struts (£?)
Engine management light on (£? to switch off in order to sell)
Diverter valve 'fluttering' (£40ish)
Central locking problem - control module possibly, which is £200
C8PPO said:
If you'd have to pay the labour to fix it, who's going to take it apart if you break it?
Don't mind spending time breaking it myself if it will be worth doing; on the other hand, to fix it up will require spending money on parts - plsu the labour to fit e.g. brake pipes as I don't have the tools. And the central locking fault is an electronic module issue I think (water ingress - happened before, quite expensive).Don't think too far ahead - how much to scrape it through this MOT? Is there the option to get another year out of it?
Seems like drastic measures for a 2001 car, unless it's a right old nag.
Forget costs like timing belts if you are just trying to scrape another years moting out of it - take the chance.
Seems like drastic measures for a 2001 car, unless it's a right old nag.
Forget costs like timing belts if you are just trying to scrape another years moting out of it - take the chance.
PigFilth said:
Don't mind spending time breaking it myself if it will be worth doing; on the other hand, to fix it up will require spending money on parts - plsu the labour to fit e.g. brake pipes as I don't have the tools. And the central locking fault is an electronic module issue I think (water ingress - happened before, quite expensive).
what engine, mileage etc?Sort the brakes and get a second had headlight unit from a scrappy
Ignore the advisories for now, unless they are causing a danger to you or others.
Timing belt change (£250ish) - leave it
Tyre (£50) - all cars need this, including your next one.
Tax (£115ish for 6 months) - as above
Tailgate struts (£?) - so what
Engine management light on (£? to switch off in order to sell) - ignore it, could be nothing
Diverter valve 'fluttering' (£40ish) - sort it for £40 or leave it
Central locking problem - control module possibly, which is £200 - leave it
You'll get more for it as a T&T runner with know faults. As an MOT fail you will get reamed on the price.
Ignore the advisories for now, unless they are causing a danger to you or others.
Timing belt change (£250ish) - leave it
Tyre (£50) - all cars need this, including your next one.
Tax (£115ish for 6 months) - as above
Tailgate struts (£?) - so what
Engine management light on (£? to switch off in order to sell) - ignore it, could be nothing
Diverter valve 'fluttering' (£40ish) - sort it for £40 or leave it
Central locking problem - control module possibly, which is £200 - leave it
You'll get more for it as a T&T runner with know faults. As an MOT fail you will get reamed on the price.
They're talking big money for brake pipes.
It's a fair point about the timing belt TBH. If it goes, it goes.
The c/l issue means that it locks itself and keeps clicking away all the time, which will eventually drain the battery. Can hear it doing it at night unless I pull the fuse, which then means the leccy windows/sunroof don't work.
I think I might stick it on the bay with a list of faults and see what happens. We had already bought another cheapy car for her so not desperate to keep this one, though it might have been a useful hack for winter and going on farm in.
It's a fair point about the timing belt TBH. If it goes, it goes.
The c/l issue means that it locks itself and keeps clicking away all the time, which will eventually drain the battery. Can hear it doing it at night unless I pull the fuse, which then means the leccy windows/sunroof don't work.
I think I might stick it on the bay with a list of faults and see what happens. We had already bought another cheapy car for her so not desperate to keep this one, though it might have been a useful hack for winter and going on farm in.
PigFilth said:
They're talking big money for brake pipes.
It's a fair point about the timing belt TBH. If it goes, it goes.
The c/l issue means that it locks itself and keeps clicking away all the time, which will eventually drain the battery. Can hear it doing it at night unless I pull the fuse, which then means the leccy windows/sunroof don't work.
I think I might stick it on the bay with a list of faults and see what happens. We had already bought another cheapy car for her so not desperate to keep this one, though it might have been a useful hack for winter and going on farm in.
pull the fuse.It's a fair point about the timing belt TBH. If it goes, it goes.
The c/l issue means that it locks itself and keeps clicking away all the time, which will eventually drain the battery. Can hear it doing it at night unless I pull the fuse, which then means the leccy windows/sunroof don't work.
I think I might stick it on the bay with a list of faults and see what happens. We had already bought another cheapy car for her so not desperate to keep this one, though it might have been a useful hack for winter and going on farm in.
belt is £5, its the tensioners (both of them) that are expensive, and the water pump.
if you genuinely want rid without an MOT, i'd be interested.
JB! said:
if you genuinely want rid without an MOT, i'd be interested.
Without wanting to go down a certain route on this thread, it would largely depend on what it would fetch. I'm not averse to taking a hit on it in order to swiftly move it on and, being totally honest, I hate the thought of it being scrapped.It has got us through 2 severe winters on the Yorkshire Wolds - without it we would have been snowed in for days at a time. It's a bit like deciding whether to have your faithful old dog put down because it's ill.
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