Modern replacements for 1980s BMX components

[Mars]

I'm intending to build a BMX using a "historic" frame and forks but with modern versions of some of the smaller components, where originals (in good condition) can't be found - or where the more modern components are undeniably better.

Clearly I'm out of touch. By about 25 years. The sort of things I'm after are:

1. Suntour "quill" stem
I've seen a couple of Sugnio stems on Ebay but I don't think they are currently-for-sale items. They look similar to the original Suntour but I'm not sure if they're cheapos. To be honest, I don't have any particular desire for a Suntour if there's something modern and better, but modern normally means one of those "clamp" types for threadless headsets which wouldn't be suitable.

2. Dia Compe MX 1000 caliper brakes
These are bloody expensive these days. I want a front and rear. Any clues on something modern? I need side-pull brakes because the frame and forks don't have V-brake adapters... although I would seriously consider having them added if it were at all possible (is it possible to have them welded into a cro-mo frame?). V-brakes are so much better.

3. Dia Compe Tech 3 brake levers
The Dia Compe Tech 77 levers look quite decent. Are they comparible to the Tech 3s? Some levers stick out too far, forcing you to have to reach too far. I liked the Tech 3s because they didnj't stick out too far (they were sort of parallel with the handlebar) and yet offered a powerful leverage with only 2 fingers.

4. Shimano DX pedals
I found some for £150. Madness..!! I'm not that precious about them. Shimano's own MX30s pedals look similar-enough. Are they, and can they be had with 9/16ths shaft?... I believe I'll need that for a Redline crank.

5. Uni Turbo seat and post
Honestly, I'm far too fat for one of these to support me these days. What's a suitable alternative? I'd be happy with a straight seat post and separate seat.

6. Skyway pro brake pads
Had these for my Tuff IIs - they had the little round fins on them. I can find them in any colour but black, and I want the pads in black. These days I can only find the very long pads Skyway produces.


My use will be limited to camp sites and dossing about with my son in the park.

[allegro]

Short answer is porkchop bmx in the states or alans bmx here in wigan. Both have websites you can buy from. I know Alans have mx 1000 re pops for 20 quid

http://www.alansbmx.com/index.php?cPath=116_102

and porkchops site:

http://www.porkchopbmx.com/

Happy shopping

Edited by allegro on Sunday 13th March 21:05

[allegro]

A few other handy sites:

http://bmxmuseum.com/

http://www.rinienterprises.com/

http://www.coloredtuffs.com/shop/

[Mars]

Thanks chaps. Alan's will be getting my MX1000 business as soon as he gets the black ones in again (May - he says). Coloured Tuffs is responsible for the last 150 Skyway TAs - I'm too late to make it onto that list.

I've put a shopping list together. I can start building next weekend.

[anonymous-user]

Mars said:

Thanks chaps. Alan's will be getting my MX1000 business as soon as he gets the black ones in again (May - he says). Coloured Tuffs is responsible for the last 150 Skyway TAs - I'm too late to make it onto that list.

I've put a shopping list together. I can start building next weekend.

Many take the second hand & restore route, I got some weinmann sidepulls striped and chromed and they look fantastic, many services available from the BMX forums.

If your after Tuff II's white ones can be died to the colour of your choice, to reduc ethe cost of colour specific ones, that are rarely in stock or very expensive.

You'll probably better off getting stuff from Porkchop (great service) and Rini Enterprises (OKish) in the states, I always found UK prices from the likes of Alansbmx way OTT, you can get good deals directly from forum members on the BMX sites.

[Mars]

OneDs said:

Many take the second hand & restore route, I got some weinmann sidepulls striped and chromed and they look fantastic, many services available from the BMX forums.

If your after Tuff II's white ones can be died to the colour of your choice, to reduc ethe cost of colour specific ones, that are rarely in stock or very expensive.

You'll probably better off getting stuff from Porkchop (great service) and Rini Enterprises (OKish) in the states, I always found UK prices from the likes of Alansbmx way OTT, you can get good deals directly from forum members on the BMX sites.

Thanks again. I'm not bothereed about making a historically-accurate bike. I'd rather build one that takes advantage of the best components within that context.

I've moved on a little with my search.

1. Suntour "quill" stem
Found a genuine one. Yay..!!

2. Dia Compe MX 1000 caliper brakes
I'm definitely going to buy from Alan's.

3. Dia Compe Tech 3 brake levers
Since looking at the alternatives, I think I've gone off the Tech 3s. They look really clunky next to the Tech 77s so I'll buy a pair of those and see how I get on with them.

4. Shimano DX pedals
Unless anyone has any other thoughts, I'm ging to buy a set of Shimano MX30s (if they will fit on a Redline crank). They look similar-enough and have "lost" that plastic end plug the original DXs had (which I didn't like).

5. Uni Turbo seat and post
I've found a GT seat post. I'd like one of the original seats with the kicked-up rear. Can't remember what they were called.

6. Skyway pro brake pads
It seems there's good reason to go with the newer-type of pads so I'll try them out.

[anonymous-user]

Mars said:

4. Shimano DX pedals
Unless anyone has any other thoughts, I'm ging to buy a set of Shimano MX30s (if they will fit on a Redline crank). They look similar-enough and have "lost" that plastic end plug the original DXs had (which I didn't like).

If you want a better modern interpretation, You can get DMR V8's with 1/2" axles and maybe even V12's if your sticking with the One Piece Crank, alternatively you can get something like a redline flight 3pc and go with modern 9/16" axles straight away.

[Mars]

OneDs said:

If you want a better modern interpretation, You can get DMR V8's with 1/2" axles and maybe even V12's if your sticking with the One Piece Crank, alternatively you can get something like a redline flight 3pc and go with modern 9/16" axles straight away.

Definitely going for a Redline crank, which means (I think) that I need 9/16ths. I've seen those DMRs but didn't know what to make of them. How are they better than the Shimanos? Is it just that they're a better repro of the original DXs as opposed to them being better pedals per se?

Thanks again.

[Mars]

The frame and forks I was after have gone. Chap closed the auction early with no warning. Shame because I was prepared to go "high" for it too.

[anonymous-user]

Mars said:

Definitely going for a Redline crank, which means (I think) that I need 9/16ths. I've seen those DMRs but didn't know what to make of them. How are they better than the Shimanos? Is it just that they're a better repro of the original DXs as opposed to them being better pedals per se?

Thanks again.

(9/16" definitely) As noted they look more like Dx's than the MX30's, the V12's also have oversized axles and sealed bearings, with metal end caps. The bodies are also oversized with a choice of standard or long pins for greater grip/shin shredability. Not sure what the MX30's or DX's weigh but the magnesium versions are mid 400g's (- another 80g with ti axles) and the non-magnesium no-ti versions are mid 500g's

Mars said:

The frame and forks I was after have gone. Chap closed the auction early with no warning. Shame because I was prepared to go "high" for it too.

They'll be another one, look on the bmx forums as well you may get a better more reliable deal than fleabay.

Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 14th March 15:05

[Mars]

OneDs said:

Mars said:

Definitely going for a Redline crank, which means (I think) that I need 9/16ths. I've seen those DMRs but didn't know what to make of them. How are they better than the Shimanos? Is it just that they're a better repro of the original DXs as opposed to them being better pedals per se?

Thanks again.

(9/16" definitely) As noted they look more like Dx's than the MX30's, the V12's also have oversized axles and sealed bearings, with metal end caps. The bodies are also oversized with a choice of standard or long pins for greater grip/shin shredability. Not sure what the MX30's or DX's weigh but the magnesium versions are mid 400g's (- another 80g with ti axles) and the non-magnesium no-ti versions are mid 500g's

I'm intending to use this BMX around the campsite. I will accept it'll get laid on its side from time to time, so I think I'll go for the cheap pedals. They'll get beaten up over time.

OneDs said:

Mars said:

The frame and forks I was after have gone. Chap closed the auction early with no warning. Shame because I was prepared to go "high" for it too.

They'll be another one, look on the bmx forums as well you may get a better more reliable deal than fleabay.

I really hope so. I might buy all the other components and a PK Ripper frame as a temporary job if I start to run out of time (I've got about 3 months) but I won't stop looking for my ideal.

Funny... but when I was putting a list of items together last night, I had exactly the same sense of excitement I had waaaaay back in 1982 when I started building my original one. That despite my having owned a couple of Caterham 7s and a Cerbera since.

Cheers.

[allegro]

Mars said:

Funny... but when I was putting a list of items together last night, I had exactly the same sense of excitement I had waaaaay back in 1982 when I started building my original one. That despite my having owned a couple of Caterham 7s and a Cerbera since.

Cheers.

I know what you mean. I recently got a fairly straight Mongoose decade which i am slowly putting back together. It sounds a bit sad i know but every time the postie turns up with a part its like Christmas 1985 when i got my first bmx

Just don't fall into the carpet queen trap. They are way more fun riden than looked at in a spare room

[Mars]

allegro said:

Just don't fall into the carpet queen trap. They are way more fun riden than looked at in a spare room

Absolutely..!! I have recently become a subscriber to the "you only live once" ethos. It's partly why I'm not too bothered if I don't make it historically accurate. I just want something which is *like* my old BMX, better in some regards (I was financially constrained as a 14yo back in 1982 - I'm not really now).

I don't think I'll be doing anything more exciting than wheelies on it though. I'm a fat knacker these days and despite my trying to get fitter by attending a once-a-week cycle club (on my hybrid), I'm never going to be that svelte 18yo again. We have a brilliant local authority who has installed really decent skate/BMX "furniture" into our local parks. I would have loved it "back then" but I reckon I'm more breakable these days.

[Mars]

I've gone mad and ordered a load of kit:

1 pair front/rear Dia Compe MX1000 in WHITE (I have been looking at a few white-framed bikes on the BMX museum and reckon that works well)
1 pair Dia Compe Tech77 in BLACK/WHITE
1 HARO handlebars in WHITE


I've found a copy of the Kashimax Aero seat. I'll have bought that before the end of the night.

I want a straight GT seatpost, in white. Did they ever do those or are the ones I've seen been powdercoated by owners?

By the end of the week, I'll have pressed the button a set of Skyway Graphites and a Redline Flight crank.


Just need the frame now. I trust it'll happen (as you said above) so I'm buying stuff now. Commitment.

Just don't tell my wife.

[anonymous-user]

I reckon your probably nearing 4 figures already without the frame, Well that's some list, don't forget the incidentals.

Chain (KMC do a great stainless steel one), freewheel, you can get an ACS 15t which would be better for cruising, cable clips, padset, wheel pullers, dice dust caps, Grips you can get some cheap knock off oakley 'rooms in many colours. I'm assuming the redline flighst come with an appropriate BB, If your buying brakes as separate items rather than a full set you'll probably also need cables (in the right colour) nuts & bolts and adjusters (and possibly springs). And tires Porkchop and Rini have a good selection, however Odyssey have good modern skin/gum wall (snakebelly) version that can take decent Psi 80+ so long as your tuff IIs can take it.

Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 15th March 09:34

[Mars]

OneDs said:

I reckon your probably nearing 4 figures already without the frame, Well that's some list, don't forget the incidentals.

I'm sort of hoping the full amount will be less than £1500. But, I'll end up buying whatever it takes to make it "mine".

OneDs said:

Chain (KMC do a great stainless steel one)

What do you think of Izumi? And the Redline chainwheel ad suggests it's compatible with a 3/32 chain but wouldn't a 1/8 (effectively 4/32) be better?

I've seen some silly-priced chains. I just want one that will retain its silver colour when cleaned. Stainless sounds useful.

OneDs said:

freewheel, you can get an ACS 15t which would be better for cruising

I want 42/16. That's the ratio I used to have and was perfect for holding a "walking pace" wheelie. Wonder if I can still do those.

Incidentally I've been looking at the White Industries ENO freewheel. A lot of money but I just know I'll end up buying one now I know about them.

OneDs said:

cable clips, padset

I'm not convinced I'll get a pad-set. The ones I've seen look like poor quality repros. I would rather do without altogether I think.

OneDs said:

wheel pullers

What's that?

Ah, are they the chain tensioner things? Yes, I'll need those.

OneDs said:

dice dust caps

Oh my... I had some odd ones before. They were little red helmets. Sounds odd even saying it out loud now.

OneDs said:

Grips you can get some cheap knock off oakley 'rooms in many colours

A'me is still going. I used to like those. I had some 'shrooms when they first came out but they wore out very quickly. Think I ended up with some Oakleys of some sort but can't recall exactly.

OneDs said:

I'm assuming the redline flighst come with an appropriate BB

Not normally - they're extra.

OneDs said:

If your buying brakes as separate items rather than a full set you'll probably also need cables (in the right colour) nuts & bolts and adjusters (and possibly springs)

The calipers I've ordered are complete with all nuts and bolts (and quick release). I just need cables. I've ordered levers too.

OneDs said:

And tires Porkchop and Rini have a good selection, however Odyssey have good modern skin/gum wall (snakebelly) version that can take decent Psi 80+ so long as your tuff IIs can take it.

This is where my understanding is YEARS out of date. I have seen repro Comp IIIs which I'll probably buy just because I'll probably first use it on a camp site. But once back home it'll be just following my 6yo son around the local park so I'd like something a bit more street-oriented. I've Googled and found a million different street tyres. How will I ever know what to use?

Anyway, thanks again for your advice. I'm really enjoying this... much much more than when I bought my hybrid.

Edited by Mars on Tuesday 15th March 12:05

[allegro]

Tyre wise these are my faves at the mo. Cracking tyre and look great on old school builds

http://www.sourcebmx.com/product/wheels-etc/bmx-ty...

[anonymous-user]

If you are street/park riding you want snake-bellies any cheng shing copies will be pants, they'll only take 50psi max which is too low for a a'hem! heavier rider or if you actually want to do any tricks, so you'll be wanting a modern equivalent.

http://www.odysseybmx.com/dailyword/catalog/tires/...

Get a more knobbly version if you using it more on dirt & grass than concrete, tarmac, metal or wood.

Any modern BMX tire will be fine but may look slightly out of place if you can't get a skinwall/gumwall version.

If your flight chain wheel is limited to 3/32 then you'll be restricted on chain & Freewheel choice, as 1/8 was standard (I think 3/32 was more racing orientated).

KMC don't do the stainless chain in 3/32, the 1/8 is not expensive at less than £20 from the UK, you can get a connex wipperman 8 speed chain (1/2 x 3/32) in stainless steel but that'll be more like £50 and possibly not up to a BMX application, have no exp of Izumi chains.

A white freewheel will be more than up to your needs, but is also only in a 3/32 has has limited sizes if you want to drop below 16t in the future.

I forgot to mention Headsets, they can be a bit of a minefield too, Porkchop had some beartrap II's from Tioga's which were about 50% cheaper than any comparable product sourced in the UK, when I got mine.

Anyway I've got a garage full of stuff and a frame & forks waiting stripping & powdercoating when I can get round to sorting it out. It's great fun and I'm learning loads about bikes in general.

Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 15th March 15:44

[Mars]

OneDs said:

If you are street/park riding you want snake-bellies any cheng shing copies will be pants, they'll only take 50psi max which is too low for a a'hem! heavier rider or if you actually want to do any tricks, so you'll be wanting a modern equivalent.

http://www.odysseybmx.com/dailyword/catalog/tires/...

I like those. I'm buying Skyway Graphites which are capable of taking decently-high-pressured tyres. I'm a fat knacker so this will be essential.

OneDs said:

Get a more knobbly version if you using it more on dirt & grass than concrete, tarmac, metal or wood.

Any modern BMX tire will be fine but may look slightly out of place if you can't get a skinwall/gumwall version.

That's exactly my thought. I want skinwalls really. It's nice to have that colour-separation between the black wheels and the black tread of the tyre.

OneDs said:

If your flight chain wheel is limited to 3/32 then you'll be restricted on chain & Freewheel choice, as 1/8 was standard (I think 3/32 was more racing orientated).

I'm not sure it's a restriction as such, more that it claims to be compatible with 3/32. I assume using a 1/8 would be OK too, which means I can benefit from the unarguably stronger BMX chains.

OneDs said:

KMC don't do the stainless chain in 3/32, the 1/8 is not expensive at less than £20 from the UK, you can get a connex wipperman 8 speed chain (1/2 x 3/32) in stainless steel but that'll be more like £50 and possibly not up to a BMX application, have no exp of Izumi chains.

That's my fear. I'll try a 1/8 and see how it fares.

OneDs said:

A white freewheel will be more than up to your needs, but is also only in a 3/32 has has limited sizes if you want to drop below 16t in the future.

I didn't think I was able to drop below 16T on these older hubs. Regardless, I am fairly confident that 42/16 is a "fit and forget" ratio for me.

Also, I think the White only requires a 3/32 if you use their DOS freewheel. That's the one with two ratios, and needs a narrower chain to engage the smaller sprocket. On a single speed, I ought to be OK to use a 1/8.

I hope.

OneDs said:

I forgot to mention Headsets, they can be a bit of a minefield too, Porkchop had some beartrap II's from Tioga's which were about 50% cheaper than any comparable product sourced in the UK, when I got mine.

Can you recall the headset that had a splined lock ring, designed to prevent the headset from coming undone? I thought that was a Beartrap, but might have been a III? From the pics I've seen of the Beartrap II I cannot see that splined lock ring.

OneDs said:

Anyway I've got a garage full of stuff and a frame & forks waiting stripping & powdercoating when I can get round to sorting it out. It's great fun and I'm learning loads about bikes in general.

Fabulous. Take pics of the process and post them in this forum.

Thanks again.

[anonymous-user]

The Beartrap II has a two toothed (splined?) top race lock rings, tioga not tange so probably a little on the cheaper side and needs a proper cone spanner to get it down right/tight.



You can see in the picture the teeth on the two races here.

Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 16th March 12:28