Undermount Kitchen Sink - wooden bench. How to?
Discussion
Hi all. Long story but we are fitting a new kitchen. Originally this was going to be done on the cheap as we were half expecting an imminent move (work related). It now looks like we are staying put so a few luxuries are starting to creep into the design, like nice appliances, wooden tops etc.
One thing I've always liked are the undermount sinks that sit under a beautifully routed hole in the wooden surface. I also like the routed drainage channels next to them. This sort of thing:
May I ask how I would go about doing this? I realise common practice would be to order the benches with these features pre-cut but unfortunately I think we're too late in the process for that.
Can anybody tell me how I would go about creating the hole for the sink? I see that jigs are available for the drainage channels (at cast cost!).
One thing I've always liked are the undermount sinks that sit under a beautifully routed hole in the wooden surface. I also like the routed drainage channels next to them. This sort of thing:
May I ask how I would go about doing this? I realise common practice would be to order the benches with these features pre-cut but unfortunately I think we're too late in the process for that.
Can anybody tell me how I would go about creating the hole for the sink? I see that jigs are available for the drainage channels (at cast cost!).
I did a similar thing (big hole in solid wood) for my sink and hob, but they were top-mounted so I didn't need a perfect edge.
I used a circular saw for the main runs, and a jigsaw to finish the corners. However in your case I think you'd have to do the last part with a router and guide to get the exact finish. I say 'last part' because router blades are expensive and blunt easily - and by saving them for the last 'tidying-up' they'll last longer.
Bear in mind that jigsaws can wander off vertical to a large degree in woodgrain, so make sure the 'slope' is going into the hole not out of it!
I used a circular saw for the main runs, and a jigsaw to finish the corners. However in your case I think you'd have to do the last part with a router and guide to get the exact finish. I say 'last part' because router blades are expensive and blunt easily - and by saving them for the last 'tidying-up' they'll last longer.
Bear in mind that jigsaws can wander off vertical to a large degree in woodgrain, so make sure the 'slope' is going into the hole not out of it!
Cheers Simpo. I'm resigned to this being a router job and the usual frig around trying to get hold of the correct collar sizes and blades etc... Only thin I can't figure out is that there appears to be no stanardisation with sink shapes/sizes so it's not like I can pop out and hire a standard sink jig. Unless I'm mistaken...
This is more like it. Minimal effort and will likely be finished before any of my other methods!You don't actually need a jig exactly the size of the sink, just a quadrant. If you cut the hole out undersize using circular and jig saw, then carefully position the quarter jig, machine the first corner and edges then accurately position it for the next corners and it should work OK.
Make the jig out of 4mm MDF or similar and as long as it's big enough, just clamp it to the worktop and it'll all work fine. It'll take a bit of time, but will work fine.
Make the jig out of 4mm MDF or similar and as long as it's big enough, just clamp it to the worktop and it'll all work fine. It'll take a bit of time, but will work fine.
It's one of those jobs where I'd be tempted to pay someone who does this a lot.
There's ample opportunity to make a balls of it, potentially leaving you with a lot of expensive firewood.
Saying that, if you have right gear it's not that hard, just time consuming. The "right gear" will cost hundreds of pounds though.
There's ample opportunity to make a balls of it, potentially leaving you with a lot of expensive firewood.
Saying that, if you have right gear it's not that hard, just time consuming. The "right gear" will cost hundreds of pounds though.
Any undermount sink should come with a paper template to cut out the hole. Just take this template, subtract the size of the guide for the router bit, and make a cheap plywood jig to use to make the cut out. To be honest the drainer groove template can be made in the same way, or screwfix do a simple jig but it's a one off use situation.
Personally I would not use a circular saw for the cut out, jig saw with new blade would be better.
Personally I would not use a circular saw for the cut out, jig saw with new blade would be better.
The correct way would be to make a jig from 10mm mdf - jigsaw the hole slightly smaller than required, clamp jig on and use a large top bearing flute cutter in a 1/2" router.
It would take us 1hr or so in the workshop to cut, router and sand hole and then router drainage grooves - so maybe £40.
Depends how valuable your time is to you and if you have the equipment to do it properly!
Also make sure your cabinet can take a underslung sink and that you seal the cut edges around and under the opening very well. Timber tops are a nightmare if not cared for.
It would take us 1hr or so in the workshop to cut, router and sand hole and then router drainage grooves - so maybe £40.
Depends how valuable your time is to you and if you have the equipment to do it properly!
Also make sure your cabinet can take a underslung sink and that you seal the cut edges around and under the opening very well. Timber tops are a nightmare if not cared for.
I've just read this thread. I'm starting to think this may be a bad idea.
http://www.screwfix.com/community/message/1116210
http://www.screwfix.com/community/message/1116210
dave_s13 said:
solution = granite
2x problems.I love wood (quiet at the back!)
I have ordered wood
I'm not really too upset at not going for an under mount. They look great in the showrooms but I've read enough this morning to convince me that it could cause me some headaches further down the line.
If you are handy with a router then this isn't a hard job, and a bit of creativity will see you right. I've done such jobs before and they are both enjoyable and satisfying. However, if you are in doubt then maybe paying someone to do it would be money well spent; worktops are several hundred quid a length, and spoiling one would be an expensive way of saving money ...
You do need to take care of them to prevent them from rotting, but that's not hard. Put a LOT of varnish (4 or 5 layers) on the underneath before fitting the worktop, and seal 'round the edge between the worktop and the sink very thoroughly, with good silicone. And make sure you keep the tops of the worktop, and the cut edge ('round the sink) well oiled, and you'll be fine.
Wood worktops are nicer than granite ones IMHO; they look better (to my eyes) and are more practical - granite ones are too harsh on glassware for my liking.
Oli.
You do need to take care of them to prevent them from rotting, but that's not hard. Put a LOT of varnish (4 or 5 layers) on the underneath before fitting the worktop, and seal 'round the edge between the worktop and the sink very thoroughly, with good silicone. And make sure you keep the tops of the worktop, and the cut edge ('round the sink) well oiled, and you'll be fine.
Wood worktops are nicer than granite ones IMHO; they look better (to my eyes) and are more practical - granite ones are too harsh on glassware for my liking.
Oli.
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