Flushing coolant system of the Fiesta - Alternator question.

[jimsayshi]

Am going to flush the coolant of a 51 plate Fiesta, and the Haynes manual says it's an easy enough job, agree that it does look pretty straight forward. But I have two questions.

It says I have to remove the Thermostat and the Alternator first. I guess the Thermostat is so that when the system is hosed with the garden hose, the jet of water wont damage the Thermostat.

But why do I have to remove the Alternator? It's a bit of a PITA of a job. Can I flush the system while leaving the alternator on?

Am also bleeding the brake system and I don't think it's a job that's been done in a long time. So would you do the Master Cylinder first or last?

[BIG DUNC]

If you dont remove the thermostat you will not be able to circulate water around the system, as the thermostat will be shut as the engine will be cold.

Not sure about the alternator, but do you have to remove that to get access to the thermostat?

[jimsayshi]

Have seen that the alternator has to be removed to get at the Thermostat. So have that one answered now.

On a separate note the Haynes Manual I'm using is bloody useless, and is running me round in circles.

I know there is the Master Brake Cylinder Reservoir and that there is a Slave Cylinder too. Is the Slave Cylinder (not the ones in the rear brake shoes) actually the Cylinder for the Clutch? As the manual mentions you can drain the Master Brake Cylinder Reservoir by bleeding the nipple from the Slave Cylinder.

But I've now read that there is a Master Clutch Cylinder and Slave Clutch Cylinder. This is getting confusing.

Is the Brake Master Cylinder and Clutch Master Cylinder the same thing?

Or does the 51 plate Festa have a Master Brake Cylinder Reservoir? A Brake Slave Cylinder (not the ones in the rear brake shoes)? A Master Clutch Cylinder? A Slave Clutch Cylinder?

Could someone tell me what is what. And what each does and if possible exactly were I find them in the engine bay.

Never thought the Haynes Manual could turn something so simple as draining the clutch into something that resembles how many words the Icelandics have for the word snow.

If the Haynes manual was clearer and consistent in the language it uses for parts, along with pics for everything. Instead of leaving you to goggle for pics corresponding to the descriptions given, I'm sure I could work it all out for myself.

It's just not particularly clear to follow.

P.S. Is there a better/clear to follow (more pics or the use of circuit diagrams) Manual than this one. http://www.car-spot.co.uk/item/51267/Haynes+Manual...

Rant over.

Edited by jimsayshi on Sunday 20th March 18:50

[BIG DUNC]

I dont know about a fieasta, but a mondeo of the same age has one resovoir for both the brake and clutch fluid.

Haynes manuals have never been perfect, but at £20, they are cheap and reasonable value. If you want a proper manual, buy the one from Ford, but it will be far more expencive.

[jimsayshi]

BIG DUNC said:

I dont know about a fieasta, but a mondeo of the same age has one resovoir for both the brake and clutch fluid.

Haynes manuals have never been perfect, but at £20, they are cheap and reasonable value. If you want a proper manual, buy the one from Ford, but it will be far more expencive.

Do you know where the Clutch Master Cylinder can be found?

[jimsayshi]

BIG DUNC said:

I dont know about a fieasta, but a mondeo of the same age has one resovoir for both the brake and clutch fluid.

Haynes manuals have never been perfect, but at £20, they are cheap and reasonable value. If you want a proper manual, buy the one from Ford, but it will be far more expencive.

Do you know where the Clutch Master Cylinder can be found?

[Zoobeef]

jimsayshi said:

Do you know where the Clutch Master Cylinder can be found?

Clutch master cylinder is connected to the clutch pedal. Usually on the bulk head on the engine side of where the clutch pedal is

[jimsayshi]

Zoobeef said:

Clutch master cylinder is connected to the clutch pedal. Usually on the bulk head on the engine side of where the clutch pedal is

Thanks. Ended up guessing that much after I posted it. But do you know how to bleed the clutch slave, ensuring all air bubbles are removed?

Have heard that it's best to push in the pushrod, when bleeding from the nipple on the slave. Is the pushrod on the master or slave cylinder? If on the slave cylinder (because the slave is inside the bell housing, with only the nipple protruding from it) I wont be bothering with the push the pushrod in when you bleed the clutch technique.

[Zoobeef]

jimsayshi said:

Thanks. Ended up guessing that much after I posted it. But do you know how to bleed the clutch slave, ensuring all air bubbles are removed?

Have heard that it's best to push in the pushrod, when bleeding from the nipple on the slave. Is the pushrod on the master or slave cylinder? If on the slave cylinder (because the slave is inside the bell housing, with only the nipple protruding from it) I wont be bothering with the push the pushrod in when you bleed the clutch technique.

Push the clutch pedal. Open the bleed nipple on the bell housing. Let the fluid come out then close it. Release the clutch pedal.

Repeat this as many times as necessary to flush the old fluid out. Dont forget the top up the header tank otherwise you will start pushing air into the system. If you do put air in just top it up and keep doing the procedure above

[jimsayshi]

Zoobeef said:

Push the clutch pedal. Open the bleed nipple on the bell housing. Let the fluid come out then close it. Release the clutch pedal.

Repeat this as many times as necessary to flush the old fluid out. Dont forget the top up the header tank otherwise you will start pushing air into the system. If you do put air in just top it up and keep doing the procedure above

Or use Eezibleed?

[Zoobeef]

Yeah my way is the old fashioned one.

Could connect the one man bleed then open the nipple and pump the pedal for as long as you need then close the nipple.

Or connect a pressure bleeder, open the nipple for a bit then close it