Clutch Help
Author
Discussion

huwdm

Original Poster:

640 posts

203 months

Sunday 20th March 2011
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I have a 2010 R400 Duratec and at a recent Pembrey track day I was changing up from 2nd to 3rd and couldnt get into any gear.
Had to pull over and got pushed to the pits.
I still couldnt get it into gear but if I held my foot on the clutch and pushed the gear stick towards 1st the car was creeping forward very slowly. It then clunked into 1st and I limped back to the paddock.
Looking back I think the last few laps the gear change at low gears was getting more notchy.
Big thanks to my Caterham colleagues at the track. They drained a little fluid to check for air blocks (I think) but we werent sure if this helped.
With engine off I can move through all gears and clutch pedal feels normal.
I started the car in gear and drove it home with little problem, although changing into lower gears was very clunky and notchy.
Any thoughts as to what this might be and how to check/fix appreciated.

mic

379 posts

255 months

Sunday 20th March 2011
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I would try adjusting the pedal stop. Remove the pedal box cover and wind the stop (on the clutch push rod) nearer to the pedal.

2slo

1,998 posts

189 months

Monday 21st March 2011
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If your car is not yet a year old could CC not assist? (assuming the fault is something other than wear and tear). One of the questions I asked before ordering was how would they deal with warranty issues in the 1st year (I've a 360 mile round trip to CC Midlands). They stated they would like to discuss any issues by phone first, then they might sanction a local garage to carry out the repair. Worth asking I'd say.

Mark.

Smollet

14,743 posts

212 months

Monday 21st March 2011
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Does the CC warranty cover any damage done on a track day? I have a feeling it doesn't.

7swede

1 posts

179 months

Monday 21st March 2011
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As discribed, it's clutch problem. I suppose you have a hydraulic clutch. In most cases there is a malfunction in the slavecylinder, if you don't run out of brakefluid.

huwdm

Original Poster:

640 posts

203 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
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Update on this. As suggested moved (in fact removed) the pedal stop. I believe there was a slight improvement and was able to drive the car with little problem. First and second are still more notchy than I believe they should be.
Also noticed now that it crunches when changing into reverse. Was always slightly awkward going into reverse but never crunched. So it is ok to drive but I believe there is something still not right. Would a fluid change be worth trying or is this going to be a big investigation job with engine out?

PEGJY

45 posts

181 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2011
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If you remove the pedal stop, you will do too much travel on the master cylinder with the risk that the travel of the slave cylinder will be way too much, the piston in the slave cylinder may be pullet out of it's housing !!!

=> Put back the pedal stop where it was if you do not want tu ruin your slave cylinder

David Long

1,228 posts

201 months

Wednesday 23rd March 2011
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It might be worth checking gearbox and bell-housing bolts are tight. The clutch is self adjusting so it is more likely to be a fault - I think you are looking at an engine out job (hopefully done by Caterham)to investigate it fully.

lawtoma

110 posts

215 months

Friday 8th August 2014
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huwdm, this sounds just like what had happened to mine! What was the problem/fix in the end?

framerateuk

2,851 posts

206 months

Friday 8th August 2014
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I'm a little curious reading this.... my Sigma has a hydraulic clutch, the same as the Duratec and I don't seem to have a pedal stop for it (I have the race stop fitted for the throttle). Do the Duratec/Sigma cars generally have pedal stops on the clutch?

DCL

1,228 posts

201 months

Friday 8th August 2014
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My 2008 R400 came with a clutch stop, but I also I did some checks when I replaced my standard clutch with the Superclutch. I think it would be unlikely that you could exceed the travel of the standard clutch. What I found most useful with the stop was being able to set it up to the minimum required travel. That made changes quicker and more predictable.

Edited by DCL on Friday 8th August 10:22

Dr Slotter

408 posts

168 months

Friday 8th August 2014
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framerateuk said:
I'm a little curious reading this.... my Sigma has a hydraulic clutch, the same as the Duratec and I don't seem to have a pedal stop for it (I have the race stop fitted for the throttle). Do the Duratec/Sigma cars generally have pedal stops on the clutch?
I'm sure this was discussed on here or BC relatively recently and I don't recall any consensus being found. FWIW my 2009 Duratec car has a stop.

BigCol

202 posts

305 months

Friday 8th August 2014
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framerateuk said:
Do the Duratec/Sigma cars generally have pedal stops on the clutch?
My 2013 140 Supersport (Sigma) has a clutch (and throttle) stop.

lawtoma

110 posts

215 months

Friday 8th August 2014
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No pedal stop in mine either. Does anyone know the cause/fix? Is huwdm still around these parts?

IBDAET

1,666 posts

285 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
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PEGJY said:
If you remove the pedal stop, you will do too much travel on the master cylinder with the risk that the travel of the slave cylinder will be way too much, the piston in the slave cylinder may be pullet out of it's housing !!!

=> Put back the pedal stop where it was if you do not want tu ruin your slave cylinder
I think the main reason is that you will over deflect the clutch springs (assuming you have a multiplate clutch where less brearing movement is required)


Also in clyutch hydraulics, you will get less seal problems if you use an older DOT3 fluid. These are more lubricating. Sintered clutch debris wrecks havoc with clutch seals.


framerateuk

2,851 posts

206 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
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Interesting. I might look at fitting one!