Somebody tell me what to do :( brake related.,(pics inside)
Discussion
Changing pads due to mot saying they were low, spotted 1 side is rediculiously lower than the other
new, old wtf, old normal...
noticed on the old wtf side where is doesnt seem to have worn that theres loads of deposits from oil accident i had last summer smashing my sump.. seems the oil has significantly reduced wear this side :/
attempted to have a quick go with white spirt and a tiny bit of wool but doesnt want to budge... decided I'd replace the discs just incase it continues..
Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo I can't seem to undo 2 caliper bolts required to take the bracing off to let the disc off.. Only the piston bolts to change the pads.. (not weak by any means, I've given it some wd40 and my torques yesterday snapped a bolt after the car started lifting up under the pressure)
Just don't know what to do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
can the old disc contaminate the new pads? or am I overreating in the first place by going to buy dics
someone sort my life out, I'm confused as f
k right now
new, old wtf, old normal...
noticed on the old wtf side where is doesnt seem to have worn that theres loads of deposits from oil accident i had last summer smashing my sump.. seems the oil has significantly reduced wear this side :/
attempted to have a quick go with white spirt and a tiny bit of wool but doesnt want to budge... decided I'd replace the discs just incase it continues..
Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo I can't seem to undo 2 caliper bolts required to take the bracing off to let the disc off.. Only the piston bolts to change the pads.. (not weak by any means, I've given it some wd40 and my torques yesterday snapped a bolt after the car started lifting up under the pressure)
Just don't know what to do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
can the old disc contaminate the new pads? or am I overreating in the first place by going to buy dics
someone sort my life out, I'm confused as f
k right now
Was it not pulling under braking at all ?
Could always get the discs skimmed. Or just replace them if cheap enough. You can never spend too much on braking - could save your life at the end of the day.
As a side note - I've got those trainers! Had them for about 11 years, most comfy driving shoes ever!
Could always get the discs skimmed. Or just replace them if cheap enough. You can never spend too much on braking - could save your life at the end of the day.
As a side note - I've got those trainers! Had them for about 11 years, most comfy driving shoes ever!
S1_RS said:
Dont undo bolts with a torquewrench as you'll most likely bugger it. Use a breaker bar. If the caliper bolts are threadlocked you may need some heat and an airgun.
It was actually just with a small spanner, I don't even have a torque wrench 
if you saw how poor my tools are you would laugh
MondeoMan1981 said:
Was it not pulling under braking at all ?
Could always get the discs skimmed. Or just replace them if cheap enough. You can never spend too much on braking - could save your life at the end of the day.
As a side note - I've got those trainers! Had them for about 11 years, most comfy driving shoes ever!
I was going to replace but I just can't get the bolts off..Could always get the discs skimmed. Or just replace them if cheap enough. You can never spend too much on braking - could save your life at the end of the day.
As a side note - I've got those trainers! Had them for about 11 years, most comfy driving shoes ever!
only £30 for a pair!
MondeoMan1981 said:
Was it not pulling under braking at all ?
Could always get the discs skimmed. Or just replace them if cheap enough. You can never spend too much on braking - could save your life at the end of the day.
As a side note - I've got those trainers! Had them for about 11 years, most comfy driving shoes ever!
it was slightly sometimes under very heavy brakingCould always get the discs skimmed. Or just replace them if cheap enough. You can never spend too much on braking - could save your life at the end of the day.
As a side note - I've got those trainers! Had them for about 11 years, most comfy driving shoes ever!
I always wear them for driving too
Fartgalen said:
Sounds like you need a breaker bar.
Got a mate that can lend you one ?
Nope, I live miles from my friends Got a mate that can lend you one ?
and Not too sure how well a breaker bar would get round the back of the discs...as a side note it seems the last person working on the car forgot to put back the two bolts he took off on one side holding the discs in aswell
Looks more like your caliper is sticking and not pulling the pads on evenly. I'd put new discs and pads on and clean the caliper piston(s) to make sure it's all moving smoothly. Get the rust off the slider too where the pads sit.
Get your brake parts here: http://www.brakesint.co.uk/
Excellent service, fast delivery, the best prices for OEM quality parts, I use them for all my standard brake parts.
Get your brake parts here: http://www.brakesint.co.uk/
Excellent service, fast delivery, the best prices for OEM quality parts, I use them for all my standard brake parts.
Get a breaker bar for what they cost. And a decent socket the right size (impact type probably).
Caliper bolts maybe 250Nm or more....
Uneven pad wear is norml on non "sports" cars, ie those without opposed piston calipers, as the force from the piston applies one side first, this compounds any non centring. Make sure your sliders are not corroded also.
Caliper bolts maybe 250Nm or more....
Uneven pad wear is norml on non "sports" cars, ie those without opposed piston calipers, as the force from the piston applies one side first, this compounds any non centring. Make sure your sliders are not corroded also.
gareth.e said:
it seems the last person working on the car forgot to put back the two bolts he took off on one side holding the discs in aswell
Discs are generally only held in by one bolt; the main 'holding' is done by the wheel studs. Those little bolts are really only to prevent it flopping around when the caliper's off and to make sure the holes line up properly.If they're combo spanners, you could hook 2 of them together. Put the ring end on the bolt, then get the next size up, and hook that ring end on the open end of the one thats on the bolt. If that makes sense.
Make sure your piston pushes back alright, use a big pair of water pump pliers, or a pair for big screwdrivers or lever bars. If it pushes back, then it's not seized, and the brake hose hasn't collapsed. If it doesn't push back, then it's seized, or the hose has collapsed. Carefully undo the bleed nipple and clamp the hose. If it goes back then, then you know the hose has collapsed. If it still doesn't, then you'll need to pump the piston out, but that's another story for another day.
If they're floating calipers, which I expect they are, then you need to make sure your sliders are free. The sliders are what the actual caliper bolts into on the carrier, with the rubber boot around them. Just make sure they move in and out of the carrier. If not, you need to get them out, clean them up, grease them with copper slip, and slap em back in.
Don't forget to clean up the carrier itself where the pads will sit, and grease up the pads with copper slip. Luckily, from the looks of it, you've got Lucas or TRW calipers, rather than the bosch ones, which are a right tt to clean up.
I'd of said those discs would last another set of pads, but in all honesty, pictures can be misleading.
If you're not sure, just stick them back together, and take it to a garage, or a friend who knows what they're doing.
Make sure your piston pushes back alright, use a big pair of water pump pliers, or a pair for big screwdrivers or lever bars. If it pushes back, then it's not seized, and the brake hose hasn't collapsed. If it doesn't push back, then it's seized, or the hose has collapsed. Carefully undo the bleed nipple and clamp the hose. If it goes back then, then you know the hose has collapsed. If it still doesn't, then you'll need to pump the piston out, but that's another story for another day.
If they're floating calipers, which I expect they are, then you need to make sure your sliders are free. The sliders are what the actual caliper bolts into on the carrier, with the rubber boot around them. Just make sure they move in and out of the carrier. If not, you need to get them out, clean them up, grease them with copper slip, and slap em back in.
Don't forget to clean up the carrier itself where the pads will sit, and grease up the pads with copper slip. Luckily, from the looks of it, you've got Lucas or TRW calipers, rather than the bosch ones, which are a right t
t to clean up. I'd of said those discs would last another set of pads, but in all honesty, pictures can be misleading.
If you're not sure, just stick them back together, and take it to a garage, or a friend who knows what they're doing.
All I can say is thankyou for the encouragement, I decided to look for tools and make a contraption, found a socket that would fit and an old ez curl bar that i had previously bent trying to lift heavy azz weights with.. jacked the car up a tiny bit more an managed to get it under somehow happy days
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