Changed U joints but issue persists

[benebob]

Changed out my inner and outter u joints because of a clunk and what appeared to be a bind or tight spot during the rotation. Put everything back together tonight and the tight spot remains. The old outer uj was toasted. It was lacking any roller bearings on the one side. Problem is when you rotate the wheel on the jack stand it gets pretty tight and then "hops" past a tight spot where the whole hub assemble kind of moves. The wheel bearing was replaced last year on this side. Doesn't appear to be an issue with the inner side as the brake rotor doesn't move. it does it at the same point in the turn each time. Any ideas?

[jeff m]

I'm not sure if I fully understood, but I'll have a guess...
If it were just binding in one place I would say seized caliper on a buckled disc.
(heat has caused a slight buckle in the disc)
Seized caliper can either be from winter storage or an inner "chunk" of the rear brake line has got pushed into a caliper.

I assume the hub carrier is moving in and out, not back and forth, either way that isn't good. The drive shaft is part of the geometry and takes the place of an upper wishbone.
Try laying behind the car and get someone to rotate the wheel. Maybe put some white cardboard as a background so you can see if the drive shaft is "pushing" the hub carrier.
That would have to be a really bad buckle to affect the geometry.

Did you undo the four bolts at the diff end? You could have dropped a shim from one side. That would do it.

ETA I assume you have your axle stands on the crossmember bling arm link.
Put a bottle jack undr the hub carrier to bring the wheel into its working range. If your wheel is very low the zerc fitting could hit the yoke.

Edited by jeff m on Friday 1st April 14:29

[Old Git]

I presume the you have assembled the two halves of the drive shaft so the UJ's are in alignment, If they aren't that would give the tight effect you referred to. Don't ask me how I know this............

[mrzigazaga]

Have you checked the prop and bearings..Mine was making a clunking noise when releasing the clutch and on de-acceleration and it went on and off for months until the prop broke.

[benebob]

Hub carrier is moving up and forward then down. Took the caliper out of the question by removing the pads and loosening the pads for the handbrake. It isn't rubbing a zerk as the zerks are in the caps

As for aligning the joints? Not sure what you mean.

Will try putting a jack under the hub carrier to raise it up a bit to see if the joints are just binding at the most extended area but the other side turns great just as high in the air.

[adam quantrill]

Before rotating the joint, jack it up so the driveshaft is near level with what it would be when the car is on its wheels, or you'll get this effect anyway.

Centering the yokes is a doddle - if all the circlips are back in, you hit the driveshaft with a mallet to drive each bearing cup back towards its circlip. (Do this 4 times at each end of course).

Then if the binding still happens:

When you put the joint back together are you absolutely sure that none of the pins fell out and got trapped between the end of the yoke and the bearing cap. This would cause the symptoms you have.

[benebob]

Thanks Adam,
Jacked it up and then put a bottle jack under the hub to lower it a bit. Worked like a champ. The other side turns just fine at full extension so I figured this one would to. Oh well, time to bring her down and drive in the rain for the next week!

[adam quantrill]

Job done - it's a good'un!

[shoggyraminator]

benebob said:

Thanks Adam,
Jacked it up and then put a bottle jack under the hub to lower it a bit. Worked like a champ. The other side turns just fine at full extension so I figured this one would to. Oh well, time to bring her down and drive in the rain for the next week!

Hello Ben, So just to be clear, there was nothing wrong or needing to be adjusted. The binding was only due to the angle of the half shaft caused by the car being jacked up? Regards Andy.