Refinishing Carbon Fibre?
Discussion
OK, you need to determine if the blistering is actually of the carbon fibre or if it is just clear lacquer (more likely)... from a friend who used to produce quality CF stuff for Caterhams:
[quote]If it is laquer, it can be removed - but carefully. If it is the resin that is scratched, you are a bit bu$$ered really. In this case, if it does need attention, then I would treat it to a little 1200 or 1500 wet and dry (put a couple of drops of washing up liquid in the water) to flat it and then get them laquered with a good quality, 2-pack laquer.
Unfortunately, once the c/f resin has lost its natural shine and depth, there's not a huge amount you can do to bring it back.
One tip, even the best quality c/f components will have some tiny pinholes in the resin, so whatever you do, if you are thinking of polishing the part, DO NOT use a wax/polish that has a white residue. It will fill the pinholes and you will have the devils own job to get rid of all the resulting white specs. If you do want use something that has a very fine abrasive, use black T-Cut. This can work quite well on mildly marked/flat components.
[/quote]
[quote]If it is laquer, it can be removed - but carefully. If it is the resin that is scratched, you are a bit bu$$ered really. In this case, if it does need attention, then I would treat it to a little 1200 or 1500 wet and dry (put a couple of drops of washing up liquid in the water) to flat it and then get them laquered with a good quality, 2-pack laquer.
Unfortunately, once the c/f resin has lost its natural shine and depth, there's not a huge amount you can do to bring it back.
One tip, even the best quality c/f components will have some tiny pinholes in the resin, so whatever you do, if you are thinking of polishing the part, DO NOT use a wax/polish that has a white residue. It will fill the pinholes and you will have the devils own job to get rid of all the resulting white specs. If you do want use something that has a very fine abrasive, use black T-Cut. This can work quite well on mildly marked/flat components.
[/quote]
To fill the pin holes, and leave a glossy finish - poor Boys Black Hole is perfect, then add a seal.
But using a dual action polisher with a light abrasive will give good results on the clear coat.
If the coating is all but gone, a good prep shop can re laquer it and then polish away.
But using a dual action polisher with a light abrasive will give good results on the clear coat.
If the coating is all but gone, a good prep shop can re laquer it and then polish away.
spatz said:
you are such pussies, is the carbon shine all you interested in ?????????????
Carbon shine or carbon matt. Not bothered. Just not carbon like the Singing Detective!!See here:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yKAxZm9Y_wg/SgbxaCGR9EI/...
Fill serious pinholes with resin and syringe, flat back (1200 W-D and strong soap mix to help remove release agents/silicone waxes), apply a matt or gloss 2k lacquer with a good quality plasticizer additive(rubberizes the finish).... end product more absorbant to road/track rash !
G Luck.
G Luck.
Spent thia week up at AW Tracksport. First time I'd been up there since getting teh car dropped off in March.....more of that to come...eh Ditto? 
But to finish off this thread, this is what greeted us on Monday from the very nice people at Reverie:
Perfect gloss finish to the rear spoiler, end plates and scoop. Matching Steve Smiths beautiful side and front splitters......
The car will be black on black.....with carbon everywhere!!!!!
Pleased? Not half!!!!
Lucky
But to finish off this thread, this is what greeted us on Monday from the very nice people at Reverie:
Perfect gloss finish to the rear spoiler, end plates and scoop. Matching Steve Smiths beautiful side and front splitters......
The car will be black on black.....with carbon everywhere!!!!!
Pleased? Not half!!!!
Lucky
!Hmmm..
Some technique that might be useful here!
I took a leap of faith and ordered the carbon airbox and coil covers from GD a while back, and it wern't cheap!
Let's just say, I wont be using them again!
The gel coat is not great, holes and fish-eyes in many places, pretty bad on the coil covers. I did raise this when they arrived, but they had my money by then....got short shrift, them saying that is normal... Normal my eye! Am I being too picky?
So, I will be looking for a way for fixing all these... any one good at this?
Some technique that might be useful here!
I took a leap of faith and ordered the carbon airbox and coil covers from GD a while back, and it wern't cheap!
Let's just say, I wont be using them again!
The gel coat is not great, holes and fish-eyes in many places, pretty bad on the coil covers. I did raise this when they arrived, but they had my money by then....got short shrift, them saying that is normal... Normal my eye! Am I being too picky?
So, I will be looking for a way for fixing all these... any one good at this?
Edited by V8 Vum on Friday 14th October 10:19
Thats a Seriously nice finish on the parts, although that does seem a heck of a lot if it's just lacquering.
On that point, If anyone has a matt finish on their wing ( which sounds like it may be quite common) then I have some advice, firstly it can be lacquered by any competent paint shop, but do not let them near it with heavy grade sand papers, only let them sand the surface to key it with 1000 to 2000 grit wet and dry. The reason is that it is very easy to cut into the weave thus destroying the pattern and look of the part. It won't weaken it but it can end up looking awful and there's nothing you can do to sort it.
Secondly, if the painter has problems with pooling or "fish eyes", this is common due to the transfer of semi permanent release agents that are used on the carbon molds. The only way around this is to lacqurer then cut back before re-lacquering and repeat as many times as needed until a nice even finish is obtained. Unfortunately there's no miracle cure for pooling problems although the initial sanding does help to reduce the problem.
I had a local painter who lacquered hundreds of prepreg carbon parts for me, he hated It I think, but they all turned out as nice as the parts In LuckP's post and even with all the work involved, a part the size of a wing would only cost around £100 to £150 depending how many coats it had to have ( sometimes it was as many as 9 or 10 coats)
If anyone ever has any carbon issues or problems, get in touch as it is my field of expertise and I'm only too glad to offer up any advice I can.
Pete
On that point, If anyone has a matt finish on their wing ( which sounds like it may be quite common) then I have some advice, firstly it can be lacquered by any competent paint shop, but do not let them near it with heavy grade sand papers, only let them sand the surface to key it with 1000 to 2000 grit wet and dry. The reason is that it is very easy to cut into the weave thus destroying the pattern and look of the part. It won't weaken it but it can end up looking awful and there's nothing you can do to sort it.
Secondly, if the painter has problems with pooling or "fish eyes", this is common due to the transfer of semi permanent release agents that are used on the carbon molds. The only way around this is to lacqurer then cut back before re-lacquering and repeat as many times as needed until a nice even finish is obtained. Unfortunately there's no miracle cure for pooling problems although the initial sanding does help to reduce the problem.
I had a local painter who lacquered hundreds of prepreg carbon parts for me, he hated It I think, but they all turned out as nice as the parts In LuckP's post and even with all the work involved, a part the size of a wing would only cost around £100 to £150 depending how many coats it had to have ( sometimes it was as many as 9 or 10 coats)
If anyone ever has any carbon issues or problems, get in touch as it is my field of expertise and I'm only too glad to offer up any advice I can.
Pete
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