S**T..I forgot about my MOT
Discussion
Hi peeps..just remembered and after checking on DVLA cos i couldnt find me old certificate its run out today..Thing is ive got a faulty light pod motor..No full beam for some strange reason..With no full beam light on dash coming on either..Brakes pull to the right if i brake hard..Got a feeling its gonna fail..S**T..
The pulling right may be the sussy bushes rather than the brakes themselves, in which case it wouldn't fail on braking but might fail on bushes if they're bad enough.
Top and bottom wishbone bushes and the tierod bushes are standard Cortina, the drop-link bushes may be of several types depending on which diameter antiroll bar and what bit of Meccano ties it to the bottom arm.
Easy enough to do; spring compressor, spanners, vice, swearing
Top and bottom wishbone bushes and the tierod bushes are standard Cortina, the drop-link bushes may be of several types depending on which diameter antiroll bar and what bit of Meccano ties it to the bottom arm.
Easy enough to do; spring compressor, spanners, vice, swearing
Wedg1e said:
The pulling right may be the sussy bushes rather than the brakes themselves, in which case it wouldn't fail on braking but might fail on bushes if they're bad enough.
Top and bottom wishbone bushes and the tierod bushes are standard Cortina, the drop-link bushes may be of several types depending on which diameter antiroll bar and what bit of Meccano ties it to the bottom arm.
Easy enough to do; spring compressor, spanners, vice, swearing
Dont forget the BIG hammer and some elastoplasts too! Top and bottom wishbone bushes and the tierod bushes are standard Cortina, the drop-link bushes may be of several types depending on which diameter antiroll bar and what bit of Meccano ties it to the bottom arm.
Easy enough to do; spring compressor, spanners, vice, swearing
Chedder
heheheheheheheRight not so bad as i thought but a fail is a fail....There was a grey W reg taimar for sale in the MOT garage..I think he would take just under 2k..It needs shocks done which they have..exhaust welded..indicators changed..supplied..It started first time and doesnt look too grim..I might hold off on my interior for now and get something for a track toy..The engine bay is massive compared to mine so a ford 302 would definitely go in..Just need a garage..I will go back and take some pics soon..
Heres my failure sheets..
Heres my failure sheets..
dangerous my arse, you could drain all the fluid and the rack would still work, they're designed that way), just leaves the emissions 
Cheers chaps..
Well the good news is that i sorted the door problem with some good old WD40..Had the emissions checked and brought down to legal levels but only on one side?..The passenger side emissions are non-exsistent..0.789..Suggested that i have my valves checked?..Bad news..When i was there the light pod that was working has suddenly decided to stop and stays up..The alternator isnt charging at all..the guy said that if the bulb on the dash has blown it wont allow the alternator to charge..Dont look like im going to be able to get it done for the re-test..Its starting to pee me off again..Now i need the electrics sorted before anything else..It needs the dash took out..I got a mirror and checked under the dash there are wires that are bare and not connected to anything..One is a white wire..one is black with small white line on it..one is thick black n white..also a blue n white bullet connected wire out in the headlight control stalk but i cant see where it should be..AAaarrrggghhh..
Well the good news is that i sorted the door problem with some good old WD40..Had the emissions checked and brought down to legal levels but only on one side?..The passenger side emissions are non-exsistent..0.789..Suggested that i have my valves checked?..Bad news..When i was there the light pod that was working has suddenly decided to stop and stays up..The alternator isnt charging at all..the guy said that if the bulb on the dash has blown it wont allow the alternator to charge..Dont look like im going to be able to get it done for the re-test..Its starting to pee me off again..Now i need the electrics sorted before anything else..It needs the dash took out..I got a mirror and checked under the dash there are wires that are bare and not connected to anything..One is a white wire..one is black with small white line on it..one is thick black n white..also a blue n white bullet connected wire out in the headlight control stalk but i cant see where it should be..AAaarrrggghhh..
dixiebabes said:
Wires with coloured lines running horizontaly along them are usually speaker wires Zig. Hope this helps mate.
Dix
Oo, I wouldn't be too certain of that Dix
The thin line is called a 'tracer' and is often used to indicate a subdivision of a circuit, e.g. if blue was the main beam, blue with a white tracer (i.e. blue/white) could be dipped beam.The point of using tracers on speaker leads is so that you connect all the speakers with the correct polarity (all tracers to the '-' terminals, for example). That way the speakers all move in and out at the same time (in phase); if you reversed any of them they'd be in antiphase and the bass notes would cancel each other out... or the stereo imaging would be crap, and a whole load of other pseudo-scientific ballcocks that basically makes Madonna sound worse than she already does
Wedg1e said:
Oo, I wouldn't be too certain of that The thin line is called a 'tracer' and is often used to indicate a subdivision of a circuit, e.g. if blue was the main beam, blue with a white tracer (i.e. blue/white) could be dipped beam.
The point of using tracers on speaker leads is so that you connect all the speakers with the correct polarity (all tracers to the '-' terminals, for example). That way the speakers all move in and out at the same time (in phase); if you reversed any of them they'd be in antiphase and the bass notes would cancel each other out... or the stereo imaging would be crap, and a whole load of other pseudo-scientific ballcocks that basically makes Madonna sound worse than she already does
I appreciate that Ian and theres my hand slap it please! The thin line is called a 'tracer' and is often used to indicate a subdivision of a circuit, e.g. if blue was the main beam, blue with a white tracer (i.e. blue/white) could be dipped beam.The point of using tracers on speaker leads is so that you connect all the speakers with the correct polarity (all tracers to the '-' terminals, for example). That way the speakers all move in and out at the same time (in phase); if you reversed any of them they'd be in antiphase and the bass notes would cancel each other out... or the stereo imaging would be crap, and a whole load of other pseudo-scientific ballcocks that basically makes Madonna sound worse than she already does
Dix
Dont worry dix only messing with ya..every little helps..Well thanks for asking the TVR gods seems to of done the trick..Put the switch back with the wire connected thanks to wedg1e for wiring lesson..and i now have high beam and it flashes when you pull the stalk back..The pod has a loose wire which stopped it retracting..Just need to sort n/s pod, tweek a nut on the power steering feed and bobs your uncle..fannies your aunt and roberts your sisters brother..YES..YES..YEEEESSSS..
Oh no only 13 weeks to go..Better get me skates on..lol..Went back to the garage to take some pics of the S1 (i think) and not a taimar..Chassis looks a bit rough so im not sure yet..Got to find out if my mate can sorn it off his drive for a while..Not worried about the engine (spares for mine) as ill be getting a Ford 302 in it which will definately fit...Dont worry im not letting my wedge go..Its just something to RWYB in..
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