Wishbone coatings ?
Discussion
On my last service I was advised that my front wishbone bushes were showing signs of wear so I have purchased some Powerflex poly bushes to re-do the lot but as some of the coating has flaked on the wishbones I would like to know which is the best way to refinish them would it be best to have them re-powder/plastic coated or would it be better to strip them give them several coats of Hammerite then Waxoyl them ?
I was told that when renewing the wishbone bushes it was worth putting washers either side of the bush. Apparently this helps to stop the bush from being pushed out. I've had it done and we will see! Also replaced other parts so saved the repainting but that was under guarantee.
>> Edited by PLA on Friday 10th May 17:47
>> Edited by PLA on Friday 10th May 17:47
quote:
I was told that when renewing the wishbone bushes it was worth putting washers either side of the bush. Apparently this helps to stop the bush from being pushed out. I've had it done and we will see! Also replaced other parts so saved the repainting but that was under guarantee.
>> Edited by PLA on Friday 10th May 17:47
It does - I was getting through top front bushes once a year until I had the whole lot replaced with washers - they've not moved in 2 years.
I wouldn't have thought that a complete strip back, stove enamel, powder coat, kevlar coating would be that necessary on the new wishbones.
The main problem with the wishbones (and the rest of the chassis come to think of it) is a complete lack of underseal. So the first stone that comes along just chips the coating and then water, and salt, and yep, eventually, rust. The chip can happen in the the first mile down the road from the factory - so although age is an indicator, it is not an absolute relationship. I spent a good half an hour recently looking at the chassis on various cars for sale at my local dealer. Almost all of them had some degree of rust and degregation on the chassis body. Some of the 'newer' ones (S, T reg) were not much better than the really old ones (K). The best Chim chassis I have so far seen was MikeyT's which had been treated, probably from new, with what seemed to be a stonechip guard. I should also point out that although Waxoyl is a useful inhibitor, it is no substitute for a proper underseal on a chassis.
Go and buy yourself one can of Underseal (in the Black tin) and one spray can of the same (or find a similar product - there's a few out there). Get some reasonably thick grade sandpaper and gently key the powder coating (there should be no need to expose metal under the coating). Then ignore the instructions on the tin and paint three good thick coats of the black treackly stuff onto the wishbones, leaving a day between each coat. Use the spray to get into the corners inside that you can't reach with a brush.
When the third coat dries you will be left with a thick black rubbery coat which will drive away water and rebound errant stones. Check the coating twice a year and touch up as necessary.
Looks ugly. Works well.
The main problem with the wishbones (and the rest of the chassis come to think of it) is a complete lack of underseal. So the first stone that comes along just chips the coating and then water, and salt, and yep, eventually, rust. The chip can happen in the the first mile down the road from the factory - so although age is an indicator, it is not an absolute relationship. I spent a good half an hour recently looking at the chassis on various cars for sale at my local dealer. Almost all of them had some degree of rust and degregation on the chassis body. Some of the 'newer' ones (S, T reg) were not much better than the really old ones (K). The best Chim chassis I have so far seen was MikeyT's which had been treated, probably from new, with what seemed to be a stonechip guard. I should also point out that although Waxoyl is a useful inhibitor, it is no substitute for a proper underseal on a chassis.
Go and buy yourself one can of Underseal (in the Black tin) and one spray can of the same (or find a similar product - there's a few out there). Get some reasonably thick grade sandpaper and gently key the powder coating (there should be no need to expose metal under the coating). Then ignore the instructions on the tin and paint three good thick coats of the black treackly stuff onto the wishbones, leaving a day between each coat. Use the spray to get into the corners inside that you can't reach with a brush.
When the third coat dries you will be left with a thick black rubbery coat which will drive away water and rebound errant stones. Check the coating twice a year and touch up as necessary.
Looks ugly. Works well.
quote:I was told by one engineer that all my bushes were shagged, but by another that simply adding washers to the existing bushes would show an enormous improvement.
worth putting washers either side of the bush.
I went for the washers and the difference is so marked you'd think it was a new car!
I'd have to check my invoice for a breakdown on cost as I had other work done too (including waxoyling the wishbones), but I'd estimate that the cost of doing just the washers would be around £60 incl. labour with an independant.
MajorClanger
Pretty sure they can. TractorBoy had his done, he has details of a firm who can refinish the chassis whose bread and butter is refinishing off-roader chassis. They can do a range of finishes, up to nylon coating with a 25 year guarantee, and can zinc coat, acid etch, whatever.
I don't have the details, best bet is to look up TractorBoy in the member directory and drop him an email.
Pretty sure they can. TractorBoy had his done, he has details of a firm who can refinish the chassis whose bread and butter is refinishing off-roader chassis. They can do a range of finishes, up to nylon coating with a 25 year guarantee, and can zinc coat, acid etch, whatever.
I don't have the details, best bet is to look up TractorBoy in the member directory and drop him an email.
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