Rover V8 oil filters
Discussion
I currently have a Unipart oil filter on my car. The oil pressure sometimes takes a couple of seconds to come up when the car is first started in the morning. I am starting to suspect that maybe the Unipart filter doesn't have the internal flap to retain the oil that the LandRover unit does. Does this sound feasible?
If I want to replace the filter with the LandRover ERR3340, can I do so without changing the oil? Will there be a torrent of oil when I remove the filter?
Ian A.
If I want to replace the filter with the LandRover ERR3340, can I do so without changing the oil? Will there be a torrent of oil when I remove the filter?
Ian A.
IPAddis said:
I currently have a Unipart oil filter on my car. The oil pressure sometimes takes a couple of seconds to come up when the car is first started in the morning. I am starting to suspect that maybe the Unipart filter doesn't have the internal flap to retain the oil that the LandRover unit does. Does this sound feasible?
If I want to replace the filter with the LandRover ERR3340, can I do so without changing the oil? Will there be a torrent of oil when I remove the filter?
Ian A.
Difficult, it is quite tricky to get the filter through the chassis quickly I would think you would lose a lot of oil and make a lot of mess, whatever you do make sure the new oilfilter is full to the brim with oil when ou fit it otherwise you could end up bleeding the oil pump.
)? 
Hmm, it definately takes 2-3 seconds for the oil pressure warning light to turn off. The oil pressure gauge goes up to 30psi fairly slowly and then after 5 minutes of driving, it makes it's way to 45psi. When the engine is warm, the oil warning light goes out as soon as the engine catches.
It might be just me being paranoid but I'm sure this behaviour is new since the cam was changed a week ago.
The oil pressure sender is leaking from the connection so it's suspect but that shouldn't affect the warning light.
Any suggestions?
Ian A.
It might be just me being paranoid but I'm sure this behaviour is new since the cam was changed a week ago.
The oil pressure sender is leaking from the connection so it's suspect but that shouldn't affect the warning light.
Any suggestions?
Ian A.
Bob the Planner said:
Ian,
I know of someone else who has just had a cam change and is reporting similar problems in a delay in oil pressure. If I remember I will find out what the outcome is this evening - last time I spoke to him it was thought it could be a lazy lifter.
Bob
Thanks Bob. Can't see how a single lifter could affect oil pressure though. Let me know if you hear anything.
Ian A.
IPAddis said:
Hmm, it definately takes 2-3 seconds for the oil pressure warning light to turn off. The oil pressure gauge goes up to 30psi fairly slowly and then after 5 minutes of driving, it makes it's way to 45psi. When the engine is warm, the oil warning light goes out as soon as the engine catches.
It might be just me being paranoid but I'm sure this behaviour is new since the cam was changed a week ago.
The oil pressure sender is leaking from the connection so it's suspect but that shouldn't affect the warning light.
Any suggestions?
Ian A.
It sounds fairly normal. Obviosly you need to fix the oil pressure sender leak. Oil pressure sould be at a max about 30 secs after start up.
I think that you have two more problems:- firstly, after the cam change you are paying more attention to the oil pressure and noticing more detail; secondly the new cam is now showing wear in the rest of the engine (a classic problem.) I would live with it as long as those are the only symptoms - the only real alternative is a complete engine rebuild so that all of the tolerances match.
The oil pressure light dissapears more quickly when the engine is warm because not all of the oil has had a chance to drain into the sump.
19560 said:
I think that you have two more problems:- firstly, after the cam change you are paying more attention to the oil pressure and noticing more detail; secondly the new cam is now showing wear in the rest of the engine (a classic problem.)
The engine was completely rebuilt 20,000 miles ago. I hope it's not worn out already
I'm sure there is an issue, whether it's with the pump, oil pressure sender(s) or oil presure release valve. I'm positive it didn't take so long before the cam change. Hopefully it will be one of these problems that goes away.
Thanks for the help.
Ian A.
If you have thrashed it from cold or rev it excessively it could be worn out but normally you'd expect triple that mileage... Pump should last at least 150,000 miles; what pressure do you have? Have you got 26psi at 2k revs and 50 at 4k revs? If so then the pump is OK. Leak at the sender is hard to quantify but probably not significant - check it though. Oil pressure release valve has two common problems - dirt causing a jam and wrong spring rate. If the readings at 2 and 4 k are fine then not likely to be that. I am a little curious as well now.
19560 said:
If you have thrashed it from cold or rev it excessively it could be worn out but normally you'd expect triple that mileage... Pump should last at least 150,000 miles; what pressure do you have? Have you got 26psi at 2k revs and 50 at 4k revs? If so then the pump is OK. Leak at the sender is hard to quantify but probably not significant - check it though. Oil pressure release valve has two common problems - dirt causing a jam and wrong spring rate. If the readings at 2 and 4 k are fine then not likely to be that. I am a little curious as well now.
OK, started it after work last night. Oil light stayed on for 3 solid seconds, then went out, then came back on, then went out again. Oil pressure slowly went up to 30psi. Drove for 5 minutes. Oil gradually made it's way up to 45psi (normal with thick oil). Stays at 45psi at all revs when running (again normal with thick oil). Drops to just under 40psi solid when very hot.
When it's running, there is no problem. It's just the cold start that's a problem. I am wondering if the oil pressure relief spring could be sticking? When the engine's cold, the spring is moved to release some of the pressure. It then sticks open slightly, causing a delay in the oil pressure coming up. When it unsticks and moves back to it's normal position, all is fine. Does this sound a reasonable possibility?
I'm wondering if something could have got stuck, dirty or damaged when it ran out of oil briefly (seperate thread).
Leak at sender seems to have actually been a loose sump bolt.
Ian A.
I have had problems with the oil pressure relief valve plunger sticking on Rover V8. I am familiar with the 3.5 or 3.9 front end only though (the rally Bowler has a 4.6 with 3.9 front end and Crane H218? cam). I polish the plunger with 1600 grit wet and dry, then brasso. Clean it with diesel then check that it is a good sliding fit in the oil pump cover by popping it in, refitting the end cap and giving it a rattle. Obviously I had to remove the oil pump cover to do this but have made this modification to three engines and experienced no further problems. John Eales can supply a tadpole shaped plunger if you prefer...
MJR
MJR
No oil pressure gauge but found sticking plunger when I had the heads skimmed on the 3.9 in my Bowler - just reassembled and run then found there was poor oil supply to the rocker gear so I pulled the pump cover off and cleaned up the plunger - in a nut shell, similar symptoms.
I use a filter off a Mini (proper Mini, not jelly mould) as standard Range Rover filter touches steering hooke joint on my Bowler. The valve gear rattles a bit on start up after having been left for a while (over a day or if it's been run hard). Let the engine idle until oil pressure builds up and all is fine (I hope!).
Hope this helps...
I use a filter off a Mini (proper Mini, not jelly mould) as standard Range Rover filter touches steering hooke joint on my Bowler. The valve gear rattles a bit on start up after having been left for a while (over a day or if it's been run hard). Let the engine idle until oil pressure builds up and all is fine (I hope!).
Hope this helps...
Took the car for a run yesterday. Dropped to 30psi hot regardless of revs and 15psi for a couple of seconds at 3000rpm. Water temperature 5 degrees higher than normal. Something definitely wrong! Cruised home with fan override on.
I'm trying to book the car into the local dealer to get it looked at but they are very busy. How difficult is it to remove and clean the oil pressure relief valve? It's a serpentine engine.
Ian A.
I'm trying to book the car into the local dealer to get it looked at but they are very busy. How difficult is it to remove and clean the oil pressure relief valve? It's a serpentine engine.
Ian A.
On the non-serpentine front end the oil pressure relief valve is retained by a hexagon headed plug of I think 7/8" A/F. Not familiar with the serpentine front end but if your engine is a 3.9 / 4.2 or derivative of those with a distributor I would have thought that the pump cover would be the same. Unscrew the plug and the spring and plunger should fall out. If no plunger escapes it is time to remove the cover too - on my engine the bolts have 8mm A/F 12-pointed heads so you will need to get either a ring spanner or 12 pointed socket on them. Not sure I have seen a 12-pointed socket so if access is tight you will be busy for a while!
I believe that the 4.0 and 4.6 blocks (4.0 is still 3947cc) have a rotor type oil pump instead of the previous gear type - can someone confirm or refute this?
MJR
I believe that the 4.0 and 4.6 blocks (4.0 is still 3947cc) have a rotor type oil pump instead of the previous gear type - can someone confirm or refute this?
MJR
The serpentine has a circlip holding in the spring and plunger. If I remove this (if I can get to it without a ramp), I'm presuming only a small amount of oil will drain out?
What's the best method to clean / unstick it? I've heard reports of cleaning the plunger with wet and dry (I assume metal polish would be good). What about the channel the plunger runs in, does that need to be de-fuzzed?
Many thanks,
Ian A.
What's the best method to clean / unstick it? I've heard reports of cleaning the plunger with wet and dry (I assume metal polish would be good). What about the channel the plunger runs in, does that need to be de-fuzzed?
Many thanks,
Ian A.
shpub said:
Serpentine engines have a totally different oil pump. Rotary driven from the crank and it has a totally different pressure spring BTW. Do not fit the one used on the pre-serp engines.
If the pump is knackered, then it is a whole new front cover i.e. very expensive.
I wasn't going to change the spring, just clean the relief valve and housing.
How expensive exactly is a new front cover?Gassing Station | General TVR Stuff & Gossip | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff