350i Clutch problem ...

[Jack Valiant]

Hi guys

I know this may have been covered elsewhere but a bit of advice would be appreciated.

Got in the car today and the clutch went to the floor. No fluid loss anywhere.
Immediatly suspected the slave cylinder so took it off, the rubber piston looked a bit worn and the bore looks tired so decided to change the whole unit. All fitted and bled same issue.

So looks like the master cylinder is next, if anyone has done this recently? How do you disconnect the rod from the pedal, as I cannot see any circlip but just an adjuster nut and what looks like a rivet? Took the steering wheel off for more room but its quite tight down there!

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks in advance

Chris

[Desiato]

Hello mate, I don't think from memory that you need to disconnect it from the pedal, it is very similar to the slave and just passes through the rubber dust shield of the master cylinder, so just unbolt the cylinder and pull it away (stand ready to be corrected).
At the pedal end it is a fork with a clevis pin and a solit pin to stop it falling out. You need some triple jointed fingers whilst being inverted in the footwell to get at it, alternatively shove a small child in there with detailed instructions ;-)

[wild rover]

Just done the cylinder,I released the lock nut at the pedal and then unscrewed the shaft from the pedal clip. On tightening just a matter of running it up to the same point. Nearest to limbo dancing so far.By the way i got my new cylinder from DLS.co.uk £32 approx. I have the part no if you require it. Well it fits my 390se 1988 model. Best of luck

[Jack Valiant]

Hi Alex ... thanks for the information if you could let me have the part number that would be great

[Campbell]

Could be the cluch release arm, it could be punched out at the pivot point, that happeded to me after i installed a new cluch, if you can get under the car take of the bottol plate and put a torch in there and have a look around.

Cambelt

[Jack Valiant]

Well spent the afternoon removing the old master cylinder and after removal looks like it is well goosed. Looking through the pipe hole the internal springs look broken no proper movement of the piston iether. Anyway all prepared for the new one when it arrives. Pig of a job to get out and I anticipate similar going back in hey ho!

[Jack Valiant]

Well good news the new master cylinder arrived today so put her in and all back to normal! After bleeding I was a little concerned as there seemed a lot of play but when I adjusted the pedal travel with said adjuster all returned to normal - result!

Chris

[Campbell]

Nice one Jqck, glad it wasnt any thing else lile the clutck or release arm.
Just need a nice weekend and ill be out wedging my self.

Cambelt

[ROOODBOY]

Campbell said:

ill be out wedging my self.

What, like this...?

[wild rover]

Sorry for not getting back to you i have just checked the forum.

[Campbell]

ROOODBOY said:

Campbell said:

ill be out wedging my self.

What, like this...?

Just like that brill

[GV]

Go for the Rover SD1 master cylinder - the piston rod will need to be changed over to your existing one as it screws into the clutch pedal - it is not held in place by a clevis pin (unless of course the factory decided to do it that way at the time). The piston rod is held in place by a circlip which can be easily removed and replaced with long nosed pliers if you don't have circlip pliers.

Getting the cyliner off and is a one man job but will take no time with some assistance...