Engine rebuild time!
Discussion
I had a slight mishap in Spain that lead to this:
Clearly I need a new crank, but what else might have been damaged? I presume the bearings will be toast due to the vibration as the crank flexed, possible the rods too, what else needs to be inspected?
Some random thoughts (excuse the total lack of structure):
How would people recommend going about the rebuild? Although I'm not practical enough to do it myself my father - who was driving the day it went pop - has done full engine rebuilds in the past and has a very comprehensive work shop.
Which components from the V8 are specific to: a) TVR and b) the 5-litre engine?
Would you recommend a short block type kit or inspecting/replacing individual components?
Are there any other upgrades or pieces of preventative maintenance that people would recommend while the engine was out? The clutch pedal was fairly high so now would seem like a good time to change the clutch. I also wonder if the cam was a little worn as the power seemed to tail off a bit at the top end, so it might be worth at least inspecting it and maybe contemplating a replacement or upgrade.
Basically I'm all ears.
Clearly I need a new crank, but what else might have been damaged? I presume the bearings will be toast due to the vibration as the crank flexed, possible the rods too, what else needs to be inspected?
Some random thoughts (excuse the total lack of structure):
How would people recommend going about the rebuild? Although I'm not practical enough to do it myself my father - who was driving the day it went pop - has done full engine rebuilds in the past and has a very comprehensive work shop.
Which components from the V8 are specific to: a) TVR and b) the 5-litre engine?
Would you recommend a short block type kit or inspecting/replacing individual components?
Are there any other upgrades or pieces of preventative maintenance that people would recommend while the engine was out? The clutch pedal was fairly high so now would seem like a good time to change the clutch. I also wonder if the cam was a little worn as the power seemed to tail off a bit at the top end, so it might be worth at least inspecting it and maybe contemplating a replacement or upgrade.
Basically I'm all ears.
Upgrade time!!Nice high quality bottom end that'll rev to 6.5k, solid lifters with cam to suit, ditch distributor for mappable spark & fuel. The heads & inlet manifold should be BV & 45mm already just top it off with a large plenum.
That's my plan anyway.
Edited by pwd95 on Tuesday 12th April 11:33
pwd95 said:
Upgrade time!!Nice high quality bottom end that'll rev to 6.5k, solid lifters with cam to suit, ditch distributor for mappable spark & fuel. The heads & inlet manifold should be BV & 45mm already just top it off with a large plenum.
neal1980 said:
any more pics??
Will take a look. I think that's the best shot, though, from memory. It was taken from underneath a ramp with the engine still in-car and the sump off. Quite alarmingly, we could actually see the crack open up if the mechanic levered the end of the flywheel!Either way it's time to get the wallet out.
I dont think i am a proper TVR owner, i have no idea what that photo shows, what drilling, balance what?
How do so many of you guys know what to do? my finest moment came yesterday when i put an override switch on the otter, it actually worked and i managed to get a light come on on the switch. so i now offer my services to anyone who needs their otter switch overridden
Lester
How do so many of you guys know what to do? my finest moment came yesterday when i put an override switch on the otter, it actually worked and i managed to get a light come on on the switch. so i now offer my services to anyone who needs their otter switch overridden
Lester
lestershaw said:
I dont think i am a proper TVR owner, i have no idea what that photo shows, what drilling, balance what?
How do so many of you guys know what to do? my finest moment came yesterday when i put an override switch on the otter, it actually worked and i managed to get a light come on on the switch. so i now offer my services to anyone who needs their otter switch overridden
Lester
How do so many of you guys know what to do? my finest moment came yesterday when i put an override switch on the otter, it actually worked and i managed to get a light come on on the switch. so i now offer my services to anyone who needs their otter switch overridden
Lester
Most people on here just make it all up. Dont they Spend?
We only spent a minute stairing at it as we had a hire car to pick up in order to catch the rest of the group at the next stop - even before the sump came off we knew the car wouldn't be continuing - but from memory it's well towards the rear of the engine. Apparently this is very unusual. Had a chat with Sean at V8D who was very helpful and seems to really know his stuff. He mentioned that most of them go at the front due to problems with the external balancing, so a failure at the rear (and the oil consumption we observed) suggests a more fundamental problem.
I guess the first step is to get the car back to the UK, but journal problems (potentially requiring a new block) seem likely and we could even need a new head or two if a broken piston turns out to be the root cause. The upside is that the cost of the upgrades I'd been thinking of before this happened aren't actually too bad. While the engine's out it won't cost that much to change the cams for something a bit more exciting, and stronger internals for track use wouldn't cost that much more than a short engine with the standard kit...
I guess the first step is to get the car back to the UK, but journal problems (potentially requiring a new block) seem likely and we could even need a new head or two if a broken piston turns out to be the root cause. The upside is that the cost of the upgrades I'd been thinking of before this happened aren't actually too bad. While the engine's out it won't cost that much to change the cams for something a bit more exciting, and stronger internals for track use wouldn't cost that much more than a short engine with the standard kit...
Edited by Chris71 on Tuesday 12th April 13:46
Didn't realise that Senior was driving at the moment the Crank went Pop. Does that mean that parental contribution is obligatory?
Alternatively you could try a major mod and talk to Richard about the costs of a small block Chevy. A 400BHP Crate engine comes in at under £4K plus shipping.......
Alternatively you could try a major mod and talk to Richard about the costs of a small block Chevy. A 400BHP Crate engine comes in at under £4K plus shipping.......
Alexdaredevilz said:
Chevy ls engine would be the best solution IMO
Um, would you need a cost breakdown of that from Jon Ellison? It might be financially viable in a Cerb, but for a multitude of reasons it's different for the Griff/Chim...The engine is cheap, engineering the installation in a non-Blue Peter way is another matter.
Personally if the heads are unaffected I'd be tempted to replace with a near-standard 4.6 bottom end + supercharger - which would be a lot more cost-effective.
That, and if I was hellbent on spending £20K on a Chim the engine would be a distant last on my list...
Edited by 900T-R on Tuesday 12th April 14:54
900T-R said:
dbv8 said:
900T-R said:
Chris71 said:
While the engine's out it won't cost that much to change the cams for something a bit more exciting,
Indeed, you only need one for starters... 
Still two banks regardless...
Or am I missing something altogether. Time for that parrot shot, maybe?
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