Clay bar

[Dan7357]

Hi Guys,

I am going to Clay my car tomorrow, I have never done it before, anything I should be careful of?

Thanks,

Dan

[paddyhasneeds]

Be very careful if it's a hot day - you want things really seriously slippy, you don't want the clay dragging across dry hot panels.

[Stedman]

Not really, it's very easy and not daunting. Just make sure the panel is very slippy.

[macp]

Stedman said:

Not really, it's very easy and not daunting. Just make sure the panel is very slippy.

This

Dont worry if it feels a bit like you are scratching the paint that is the contaminants being removed.As long as the car is clean and free of dust & dirt you will be fine.Bodywork feels amazing after.

[Stedman]

macp said:

This

Dont worry if it feels a bit like you are scratching the paint that is the contaminants being removed.As long as the car is clean and free of dust & dirt you will be fine.Bodywork feels amazing after.

Mac daddy, do you look atyour emails through PH. I hvea VERY fruity exhaust fitted to a certain V70R that you'll LOVE the sound of...

[macp]

Stedman said:

Mac daddy, do you look atyour emails through PH. I hvea VERY fruity exhaust fitted to a certain V70R that you'll LOVE the sound of...

Sorry bud just looked but nothing there.So you been spending ?

[Stedman]

macp said:

Sorry bud just looked but nothing there.So you been spending ?

YHM now

[wackojacko]

as said above, like most things in life it's best to keep it slippery and very wet.

Feels extraordinary afterwards.

Well worth doing....

[Stedman]

I'd really recommend an IPA wipe down after the claying.

[domster]

Stedman said:

I'd really recommend an IPA wipe down after the claying.

Why, out of curiosity? Not being picky, just genuinely interested why you'd recommend it.

[PJ S]

Presumably to remove the lube in readiness for the wax/sealant, rather than wash/dry then LSP.
Of course, it presumes no marring has been introduced with the process, meaning localised light polishing to remove that first.

[Reflectology]

macp said:

This

Dont worry if it feels a bit like you are scratching the paint that is the contaminants being removed.As long as the car is clean and free of dust & dirt you will be fine.Bodywork feels amazing after.

it shouldnt feel like its scratching at all, if it is then it has more than likely picked a larger piece of contaminant up and dragging this across the paintwork will inevitably cause marring, in this case just keep kneading the clay until you find a fresh face to work from, do this on a regular basis and you will come good with a nice smooth surface....plenty of lube is needed though, as for an ipa wipedown that someone has given an answer to there is no need, that is merely used to remove polishing oils after a machine polish, what you will need to do though is rewash if there is plenty of clay residue and pre clean the paint work with a paint cleanser....something like Lime Prime from Dodo Juice...that will then prep the paint for wax or sealant....

[domster]

PJ S said:

Presumably to remove the lube in readiness for the wax/sealant, rather than wash/dry then LSP.
Of course, it presumes no marring has been introduced with the process, meaning localised light polishing to remove that first.

But you'd normally polish before LSP and most lubes will wash off nicely anyway.

The only reasons I can think of are 1) checking to see if there's any clay marring if the paint is very soft if a silicone based QD wax used as a clay lube; or 2) because a nano sealant is to be applied straight after (so a polish wouldn't be quite as necessary)

Generally, IPA wipedown after clay is over the top and unnecessary - simple rinse or wash with water suffices.

IPA wipedown after machine polishing is quite another matter and essential if a true indication of correction is desired.

[PJ S]

Agreed Dom, but I could see the use of IPA as described, to get to a clean paintwork point quicker than a second wash/rinse & dry step which most clay lubes require.
Everyone's different, and what works for someone may go against the grain of conventional process for the majority.

[domster]

Good point, Phil. IPA is just a bit nasty to use really, and best avoided if possible. So I can see the use but it perhaps wouldn't be my first choice.

[brumma]

domster said:

IPA is just a bit nasty to use really, and best avoided if possible. So I can see the use but it perhaps wouldn't be my first choice.

I have been detailing my own cars for a few years now, but have never used an IPA wipedown. Why do you consider it nasty to use?

For the OP, I just had my entire car machine polished (3-step) for around US$800--it can be even more expensive dependent on the condition of the paint. In my case there were quite a few swirls from poor washing technique (previous owner), but the car only has 5K miles.

[domster]

It's just a reasonably strong solvent - it needs to be used at 50-70% to do much (diluted with water) and whilst it can be very useful I don't like using it unnecessarily. Water based products are more pleasant to use (water can be inhaled and smells OK, IPA can't and doesn't!).

There really isn't much need after claying if the right clay lube is used. But there IS a need after machining if you want to see true cut, due to the high incidence of 'filling' that goes on with compounds. If you just want a finish, rather than the 'true' finish, don't worry about a panel wipe. It is really something pro detailers should do if they are promising 'correction' rather than 'enhancement' of the paint.