Help! Car won't start, now no starter motor
Discussion
I've been fiddling around with relocating the coil and tried to start the car yesterday, but it wouldn't fire. Decided that the coil needed an earth on its mounting (am I right?) so earthed it but still no good. decided I'd probably flooded it, so I left it charging overnight and tried again this evening. Still no go, so I removed the plugs, dried and cleaned them and put them back in. Still no good.
It's definitely firing as it occaisionally catches, (but if I remove the HT lead from the coil, no catching at all,) so I'm confident the coil is doing what it should.
However, now the starter motor appears to have seized, although there is no voltage drop when I try and start the car, and no clicks. (I have been trying for an hour or so to start it.) Is there a main fuse somewhere for the starter motor (Griff 500).
Help desparately needed tonight, as my other car is being sold tonight, so I'm relying on the Griff for my only transport for a week or so.
It's definitely firing as it occaisionally catches, (but if I remove the HT lead from the coil, no catching at all,) so I'm confident the coil is doing what it should.
However, now the starter motor appears to have seized, although there is no voltage drop when I try and start the car, and no clicks. (I have been trying for an hour or so to start it.) Is there a main fuse somewhere for the starter motor (Griff 500).
Help desparately needed tonight, as my other car is being sold tonight, so I'm relying on the Griff for my only transport for a week or so.
If there's no clicks and no voltage drop, could be the solenoid sticking 
Don't know about the original non-starting problem, but I do know the ignition system is susceptible to interference (which caused probs with idle and misfiring on mine) - if it was me, I'd put the coil back where it came from, and see if it helps.
Good luck!
Edited to add, there is this big huge fuse under the car somewhere (not on my early one tho'), a hairline crack in it could maybe stop the high-current stuff like the starter working, but leave everything else apparently OK?
>> Edited by andy43 on Friday 14th May 19:12
Don't know about the original non-starting problem, but I do know the ignition system is susceptible to interference (which caused probs with idle and misfiring on mine) - if it was me, I'd put the coil back where it came from, and see if it helps.
Good luck!
Edited to add, there is this big huge fuse under the car somewhere (not on my early one tho'), a hairline crack in it could maybe stop the high-current stuff like the starter working, but leave everything else apparently OK?
>> Edited by andy43 on Friday 14th May 19:12
Have you tried putting the other coil back on?or just wire it back up again and trying it.
The 40A fuse is usually onthe underside of the shassis just behind the drivers side wheel. Or if not there in teh footwell somewhere.
Have you tried hitting the starter while trying to start it.
BB
The 40A fuse is usually onthe underside of the shassis just behind the drivers side wheel. Or if not there in teh footwell somewhere.
Have you tried hitting the starter while trying to start it.
BB
There is no fuse between the battery and starter, the fuse is between the alternator and the starter(battery). The starter failing to engage will probably be the "wont start when hot" which is because you have heated the solenoid with all the cranking. I bet it turns over if you crawl underneath and short between the big red cable and the solenoid positive, or just wait for it to cool. As for the wont fire up, it will loose the codes but as a get you going idea, disconnect the ecu for 20 secs, mine did this just a week ago.
Thanks for all the advice. I am hoping the starter has just overheated and will cool (although I tried it after about 20 mins but still with no success). Is the solenoid near the starter or in the passenger footwell?
I think I've just badly fouled the plugs and I'm hoping a bump start which should turn the engine over faster that the starter will cur it!
I'll let you know!
I think I've just badly fouled the plugs and I'm hoping a bump start which should turn the engine over faster that the starter will cur it!
I'll let you know!
Right, thanks to Mr Friendly RAC man, I got the car tow started. After coughing and spluttering for a few minutes (and refitting 2 HT leads, 1 spark plug extender and tightening another spark plug) it's running fine.
However, the starter motor solenoid has gone south (power getting to it, but not switching).
Mr. Friendly RAC man says that you can't buy the solenoid on its own. I'm on a run with the East Midlands region on Sunday to the Bristol and Wiltshire regions and I'm desperate to go.
Can anyone tell me where I can get either:
a) a replacement solenoid, or
b) a second hand starter motor to pull the solenoid off of, or
c) a second hand starter motor I can fit (is it standard land rover), or
d) as a last resport a new starter motor.
Bearing in mind tomorrow is a Saturday.
P.S., I live in Atherstone, Warwickshire.
However, the starter motor solenoid has gone south (power getting to it, but not switching).
Mr. Friendly RAC man says that you can't buy the solenoid on its own. I'm on a run with the East Midlands region on Sunday to the Bristol and Wiltshire regions and I'm desperate to go.
Can anyone tell me where I can get either:
a) a replacement solenoid, or
b) a second hand starter motor to pull the solenoid off of, or
c) a second hand starter motor I can fit (is it standard land rover), or
d) as a last resport a new starter motor.
Bearing in mind tomorrow is a Saturday.
P.S., I live in Atherstone, Warwickshire.
bummer andy, just seen this thread.
starter motor is the only option here.
any rover 3.5 will do, don't think there's a big one for 5.0's over 3.5's.
if you've driven the car and its idling ok etc, it shouldn't be stuck in and therefore burnt out. try giving it a smack to free it. a rubber hammer (yes really) is best, if not a lump of wood will impact but not damage the case/insides.
you MIGHT be lucky but if its stuck once it will again...so change it asap
see you sunday, i hope
starter motor is the only option here.
any rover 3.5 will do, don't think there's a big one for 5.0's over 3.5's.
if you've driven the car and its idling ok etc, it shouldn't be stuck in and therefore burnt out. try giving it a smack to free it. a rubber hammer (yes really) is best, if not a lump of wood will impact but not damage the case/insides.
you MIGHT be lucky but if its stuck once it will again...so change it asap
see you sunday, i hope
Contacted JE Engineering in Coventry who were prepared to pull a new motor off an engine, but whilst I was driving over to them they rang back to say their supplier had a recon unit on the shelf and were also in Coventry.
So I've been to collect it (£82 + VAT) and am now about to fit it.
Many thanks to JE for all their assistance, despite the fact they didn't make a sale and the guy needed to get off for a wedding!
So I've been to collect it (£82 + VAT) and am now about to fit it.
Many thanks to JE for all their assistance, despite the fact they didn't make a sale and the guy needed to get off for a wedding!
Just going through the same myself... a belt on the solonoid with a socket ext bar does the trick, new starter arriving tomorrow from here www.brookwell.co.uk/acatalog/Range_Rover_Classic.html (gone for the cheap option after reading a few other threads on here, will let you know how I get on...
Am getting local friend (mechanic) to fit as he has ramps etc...
Am getting local friend (mechanic) to fit as he has ramps etc...
Let's hope it's up to the job!
It wasn't too difficult to fit (thanks to the Bible) but I am always nervous getting under a car that low, supported on axle stands. You would have no chance if it fell off.
The top allen bolt is a bit of a pig - you still have to do it frun underneath the car, but really you need an allen key longer than the starter motor to be able to turn it.
Don't forget to disconnect either the positive or negative on the battery first!
It wasn't too difficult to fit (thanks to the Bible) but I am always nervous getting under a car that low, supported on axle stands. You would have no chance if it fell off.
The top allen bolt is a bit of a pig - you still have to do it frun underneath the car, but really you need an allen key longer than the starter motor to be able to turn it.
Don't forget to disconnect either the positive or negative on the battery first!
So, starter was £70 inc. vat, fitting was £40 at local garage who asked "don't come back for another one fitting in a long time" :-)
Does sound different starting as cranking seems quicker and starter itself high pitched.
As you say, let's hope it is upto the job! It did at least start this afternoon after a red hot run in traffic.....
Does sound different starting as cranking seems quicker and starter itself high pitched.
As you say, let's hope it is upto the job! It did at least start this afternoon after a red hot run in traffic.....
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