replacing upper ball joints
Discussion
Can anyone shed some light on this job? They bolt on (3 bolts total, 2 for the body that sits in the upright and 1 for the joint itself.
I removed the wheel caliper and disc today and although i can see the 2 top bolts (1 doubles to the drop link) the ball joint bolt is inaccessible, there is a seat on the upright with 4 rusted hex head bolts.
Any method to this? Remove top 2 then angle ball joint to get to the 4 hex bolts then fit new one in reverse?!
I removed the wheel caliper and disc today and although i can see the 2 top bolts (1 doubles to the drop link) the ball joint bolt is inaccessible, there is a seat on the upright with 4 rusted hex head bolts.
Any method to this? Remove top 2 then angle ball joint to get to the 4 hex bolts then fit new one in reverse?!
You have to remove the 4 rusted hex head bolts,then remove the ball joint and the collar that the hex head bolts are attached to. There is then a bolt that requires removing bellow the collar which is what holds the ball joint onto the collar.The hex heads just hold the collar to the upright . Cut down an Allan key so it can fit into the hex heads and avoid damaging the ball joint(more important when putting the new ball joint in).
Thanks, the ball joints will be on there soon!
Removing the seats was very easy, I did grind them off (2 come off normally). I made the new bolts fit the same as the 2 that remove properly so shouldn't struggle in future.
Getting the backs done cost me £150 in Moonraker Black and they look better than the bodywork
Removing the seats was very easy, I did grind them off (2 come off normally). I made the new bolts fit the same as the 2 that remove properly so shouldn't struggle in future.
Getting the backs done cost me £150 in Moonraker Black and they look better than the bodywork

Upper Ball Joint - Removal/replacement
Components

To gain access to the upper ball joint the car ideally needs to be on a suitable ramp or jacked and supported, with the front wheels removed.
The brake disc and calliper first need to be removed.

To maintain the camber as close as possible without re-setting; remove the nyloc nut from the outer bolt and measure the gap between the bolt and wishbone slot and note the dimension.

Leave the bolts in place at this stage
Loosen the 4off M8 capscrews on the ball joint mounting plate, but do not remove.
A shortened allen key is useful on re-assembly to avoid damage to the gaiter, as clearance is limited.
Remove the anti-roll bar drop link.
Ensure the knuckles are not allowed to rotate holding with a slim spanner whilst removing the nuts.

Loosen the bottom anti roll bar joint and then spring out.

Then withdraw the drop link.
Carefully remove the front bolt on the ball joint holding the weight of the upright and wheel hub.
Lift the upper top wishbone upwards to release the ball joint and finally remove the 4off M8 capscrews

Remove the plate from the ball joint by holding in a vice or make a suitable tool to hold whilst removing the nut.

G
Components
To gain access to the upper ball joint the car ideally needs to be on a suitable ramp or jacked and supported, with the front wheels removed.
The brake disc and calliper first need to be removed.
To maintain the camber as close as possible without re-setting; remove the nyloc nut from the outer bolt and measure the gap between the bolt and wishbone slot and note the dimension.
Leave the bolts in place at this stage
Loosen the 4off M8 capscrews on the ball joint mounting plate, but do not remove.
A shortened allen key is useful on re-assembly to avoid damage to the gaiter, as clearance is limited.
Remove the anti-roll bar drop link.
Ensure the knuckles are not allowed to rotate holding with a slim spanner whilst removing the nuts.
Loosen the bottom anti roll bar joint and then spring out.
Then withdraw the drop link.
Carefully remove the front bolt on the ball joint holding the weight of the upright and wheel hub.
Lift the upper top wishbone upwards to release the ball joint and finally remove the 4off M8 capscrews
Remove the plate from the ball joint by holding in a vice or make a suitable tool to hold whilst removing the nut.
G
Did the passenger side last night, didn't realise it was 2am when I wandered back into the house 
I need to get some larger locking nuts for the droplink bolt but otherwise a good install. Will try to do drivers side today/tonight.
Thanks for posting that up from your bible? Graham, not something I own but I can imagine it's a great source of information and could save some time! btw, your car is too clean!

I need to get some larger locking nuts for the droplink bolt but otherwise a good install. Will try to do drivers side today/tonight.
Thanks for posting that up from your bible? Graham, not something I own but I can imagine it's a great source of information and could save some time! btw, your car is too clean!
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