What clutch and slave cylinder options do I have ?
Discussion
The clutch in my car is starting to show signs of wear (I have to tickle the car into gear and it feels notchy) and also it has a good 30,000 miles on it so it's time to replace it.
Also there is a weep on the slave cylinder so it's going to be replaced as well.
I remember that there were a couple of options of replacement clutch available some time back and Im wondering which one is the best option.
Also what is the slave cylinder from?
I'm guessing it's probably a Ford item but I looked in the equivalent parts thread and it's not mentioned on there (yet).
Also there is a weep on the slave cylinder so it's going to be replaced as well.
I remember that there were a couple of options of replacement clutch available some time back and Im wondering which one is the best option.
Also what is the slave cylinder from?
I'm guessing it's probably a Ford item but I looked in the equivalent parts thread and it's not mentioned on there (yet).
The slave isn't from anything, its a bespoke part. The only choices that I know of are a standard slave from TVR Power etc, or a Raceproved aluminium one direct from Raceproved (or may also be retailed by Clever Trevor I think). Alternatively you can by a slave seal set and just replace the seals for about £30. Personally I went with the Raceproved teflon coated aluminium slave after changing seals in the standard cylinder only lasted a few thousinad miles
There were various versions of the clutch and slave fitted depending on year, so it is worth checking the height of whichever replacement you choose, against your original carefully before fitting to ensure you have the correct version.
There were various versions of the clutch and slave fitted depending on year, so it is worth checking the height of whichever replacement you choose, against your original carefully before fitting to ensure you have the correct version.
I've had a search through the (incomplete) bits of history I got with the car and one of the invoices is from TVR for an AJP clutch assembly (twin plate) and it's listed as Part No Q0365
I'm guessing this will probably help identify what's in there at present.
That one was fitted back in January '02 at 23,000 miles.
Nine years later and the car has only 57,500 miles on it and is still very driveable and if pushed the the clutch would probably survive until the end of the year ..... but would frustrate the hell out of me by then.
The paperwork also shows "Fitting correct short bell housing inners" which was listed as Part No. Q0317
The seals were also replaced in the slave cylinder at the same time.
If any of you can shed light on whether this info is helpful or not please feel free to let me know.

I'm guessing this will probably help identify what's in there at present.
That one was fitted back in January '02 at 23,000 miles.
Nine years later and the car has only 57,500 miles on it and is still very driveable and if pushed the the clutch would probably survive until the end of the year ..... but would frustrate the hell out of me by then.
The paperwork also shows "Fitting correct short bell housing inners" which was listed as Part No. Q0317
The seals were also replaced in the slave cylinder at the same time.
If any of you can shed light on whether this info is helpful or not please feel free to let me know.

Mine's going well.
The first time the original seals failed (melted away) I replaced and refitted. Second time (a year later) I tidied up the edges of the pistons/cylinders as they are not de-burred from the factory....
and the inside of the cylinder outside of the piston did not look too clever. It was all tidied up and all scuffs sharp edges removed.
The third time!!! I bought a Race proved one to give it a try as the damage on my std one had returned and I suspected the design was partly to blame.
tbh I think the Raceproved one ideally needs a PTFE backup ring both ends of the piston (to give even more support) but that would mean re-sizing the square section seal.
The first time the original seals failed (melted away) I replaced and refitted. Second time (a year later) I tidied up the edges of the pistons/cylinders as they are not de-burred from the factory....
and the inside of the cylinder outside of the piston did not look too clever. It was all tidied up and all scuffs sharp edges removed.The third time!!! I bought a Race proved one to give it a try as the damage on my std one had returned and I suspected the design was partly to blame.
tbh I think the Raceproved one ideally needs a PTFE backup ring both ends of the piston (to give even more support) but that would mean re-sizing the square section seal.
FarmyardPants said:
Interesting 
Has anyone had a raceproved slave fail?
I did on my cerb a few years back, it failed only a few 00 miles after fitting. I was told that it was deemed as either a one off manufacturing default or the seals got damaged during the install. But after that it was perfect until the day the car was sold about a year later.
Has anyone had a raceproved slave fail?

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