What clutch and slave cylinder options do I have ?
What clutch and slave cylinder options do I have ?
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Ireland

Original Poster:

3,517 posts

243 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
The clutch in my car is starting to show signs of wear (I have to tickle the car into gear and it feels notchy) and also it has a good 30,000 miles on it so it's time to replace it.

Also there is a weep on the slave cylinder so it's going to be replaced as well.

I remember that there were a couple of options of replacement clutch available some time back and Im wondering which one is the best option.

Also what is the slave cylinder from?

I'm guessing it's probably a Ford item but I looked in the equivalent parts thread and it's not mentioned on there (yet).

Tanguero

4,535 posts

230 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
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The slave isn't from anything, its a bespoke part. The only choices that I know of are a standard slave from TVR Power etc, or a Raceproved aluminium one direct from Raceproved (or may also be retailed by Clever Trevor I think). Alternatively you can by a slave seal set and just replace the seals for about £30. Personally I went with the Raceproved teflon coated aluminium slave after changing seals in the standard cylinder only lasted a few thousinad miles

There were various versions of the clutch and slave fitted depending on year, so it is worth checking the height of whichever replacement you choose, against your original carefully before fitting to ensure you have the correct version.


Tyre Smoke

23,018 posts

290 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
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With regard to the clutch, you have two choices:

AP clutch or reconditioned AP clutch

Happy to be corrected though.

ridds

8,372 posts

273 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
Just get std clutch from whoever and a slave from Raceproved. The revised design with the second seal prevents the piston kicking over and therefore the damage inside the cylinder.

Ireland

Original Poster:

3,517 posts

243 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
So am I correct in thinking I'll have to drop the gearbox to check which clutch and slave I have and then order based on that?

yikes

If so it looks like I'll be doing it over the pit at home rather than taking up my mate's lift for about 2 weeks.

ridds

8,372 posts

273 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
Yep but should be straight forward based on age and previous history.

Only the early 4.2's have a slightly different clutch but this is due to the bellhousing also.

Slave cylinder will be the factory issue one unless you know you've got something different.

Ireland

Original Poster:

3,517 posts

243 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
I've had a search through the (incomplete) bits of history I got with the car and one of the invoices is from TVR for an AJP clutch assembly (twin plate) and it's listed as Part No Q0365

I'm guessing this will probably help identify what's in there at present.

That one was fitted back in January '02 at 23,000 miles.

Nine years later and the car has only 57,500 miles on it and is still very driveable and if pushed the the clutch would probably survive until the end of the year ..... but would frustrate the hell out of me by then.

The paperwork also shows "Fitting correct short bell housing inners" which was listed as Part No. Q0317

The seals were also replaced in the slave cylinder at the same time.

If any of you can shed light on whether this info is helpful or not please feel free to let me know.

smile

ridds

8,372 posts

273 months

Monday 25th April 2011
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What year is it?

Ireland

Original Poster:

3,517 posts

243 months

Monday 25th April 2011
quotequote all
It's a '97 4.2

FarmyardPants

4,372 posts

247 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
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ridds said:
Just get std clutch from whoever and a slave from Raceproved. The revised design with the second seal prevents the piston kicking over and therefore the damage inside the cylinder.
Interesting scratchchin

Has anyone had a raceproved slave fail? ears

ridds

8,372 posts

273 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
quotequote all
Mine's going well.

The first time the original seals failed (melted away) I replaced and refitted. Second time (a year later) I tidied up the edges of the pistons/cylinders as they are not de-burred from the factory.... rolleyes and the inside of the cylinder outside of the piston did not look too clever. It was all tidied up and all scuffs sharp edges removed.

The third time!!! I bought a Race proved one to give it a try as the damage on my std one had returned and I suspected the design was partly to blame.

tbh I think the Raceproved one ideally needs a PTFE backup ring both ends of the piston (to give even more support) but that would mean re-sizing the square section seal.

CER927

193 posts

245 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
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I am probably going to regret saying this, but since fitting a raceproved slave and clutch three years ago, its had track day and sprinting use regulary, the slave and race proved clutch is still working well. ('97 4.2)

Ireland

Original Poster:

3,517 posts

243 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
quotequote all
I bled it yesterday and it's marginally better so that should buy me a wee bit of time.

I'll see if I can bring myself to spend all the extra money on the Raceproved one. smile

hugepiece

724 posts

256 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
quotequote all
FarmyardPants said:
Interesting scratchchin

Has anyone had a raceproved slave fail? ears
I did on my cerb a few years back, it failed only a few 00 miles after fitting. I was told that it was deemed as either a one off manufacturing default or the seals got damaged during the install. But after that it was perfect until the day the car was sold about a year later.