Rear drop links
Rear drop links
Author
Discussion

SILICONE KID

Original Poster:

14,997 posts

262 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
Never had much luck with the rose jointed rear drop links..Any one tried these..

http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...

clive f

7,259 posts

264 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
Can`t see that it will be much different, the rubber boot will keep crap out of the bearing but I`m not so sure that the bearings themselves are up to the job in the long term.

I went back to the standard ones, cheaper and seem to last longer.

SILICONE KID

Original Poster:

14,997 posts

262 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
They have more give than the Rose jointed SH ones and two thick rubbers to trap each side of the mounting plate..What ever i do no matter how i adjust i get cracking noises..May be its the bar which seems to be miles out on the off side.

haircutmike

22,511 posts

235 months

Sunday 24th April 2011
quotequote all
I've had these on for about a year, took my time to set them up and haven't had trouble since, they are the Leven ones!

Golflion

2,782 posts

252 months

Monday 25th April 2011
quotequote all
haircutmike said:
I've had these on for about a year, took my time to set them up and haven't had trouble since, they are the Leven ones!
Just fitted these on mine.

Chimpafrolic

9,637 posts

210 months

Monday 25th April 2011
quotequote all
The first thing I would say is that the original ones used by TVR don't last long.

The vulcanised rubber ball pressed into a ball socket idea is archaic and almost identical to what triumph fitted to their cars in the 1960's & 70's.

They were a rubbish design back then and in my opinion really have no place on a much more modern 150mph sports car.

I replaced my knackered originals for these Leven rose jointed drop links front & rear, after fitting them it gave a noticeable improvement in handling.

Their construction is all stainless & extremely solid, when I spoke to the chap at Leven (before they sold the business) I was told a lot of time was spent finding a quality rose joint that would last, apparently they are German automotive spec.

My Leven drop links have now done over 5,000 on all sorts of roads and are as good as the day they were fitted.

No nasty noises, no play, so definitely a quality product and will give a great improvement over the rather weedy and prehistoric design of the originals.

Probably the easiest and most cost effective way of improving your handling and a vast improvement over the TVR originals.



Edited by Chimpafrolic on Monday 25th April 09:13

shpub

8,507 posts

303 months

Monday 25th April 2011
quotequote all
SILICONE KID said:
They have more give than the Rose jointed SH ones and two thick rubbers to trap each side of the mounting plate..What ever i do no matter how i adjust i get cracking noises..May be its the bar which seems to be miles out on the off side.
The two thick rubbers are the same method that the original design uses. They have to distort to allow the drop link to move which is the same limitation that the original drop links suffered from. It also puts a lot of stress on the mounting plate as the link tries to bend it.

If they are incorrectly fitted they tend to clunk not crack. If you are getting cracking noises then I suspect there maybe something else causing the problem. e.g. broken spring, worn out CV joint, cracked chassis or diff mount.

Try disconnecting the arb by removing a link and see if the cracking is still there. If it is, then the problem is else where.

Have you tried moving the ARB to see if there is any play?





SILICONE KID

Original Poster:

14,997 posts

262 months

Monday 25th April 2011
quotequote all
solid got new anti roll bar poly bushes..

SILICONE KID

Original Poster:

14,997 posts

262 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
quotequote all
Just removed the anti roll bar and drop links ..after driving on rough un made roads taking it on awkward angles and movng my steering wheel from left to right at slow speed there are no creeks,clangs,or clunks..so its got to be the drop links .They were fitted prity straight ,how tight should the bottom bolt be.I have noticed that the TVR shop and any other design have eather poly or rubber washes fitted each side of the cross member ,maybe the design makes it a little harsh in that area.Im surprised know one as found a mass production drop link from another car which fits..Something like these..The standard OE rear drop link lasted less that 12 months so there not very good.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-Civic-MB6-1-8VTi-Diese...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-Terrano-2-FRONT-ANTI-...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/nissan-patrol-y60-drop-link-...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Mondeo-96-98-REAR-STABI...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-Terrano-2-FRONT-ANTI-...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-Terrano-2-FRONT-ANTI-...

shpub

8,507 posts

303 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
quotequote all
The bolts clamp the rose joints in place and so they should be tight. If they are not tight enough then the rose joint moves on the bolt and clunks. The solution as in the fitting instructions is to nip them up.


SILICONE KID

Original Poster:

14,997 posts

262 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
quotequote all
Do i use the split spring washers each side of the rose joint..the off side drop link seems to be a good distance away from the roll bar..should the rose joint be fitted behind or in front of the anti roll bar..

shpub

8,507 posts

303 months

Tuesday 26th April 2011
quotequote all
Yes the split washers improve the articulation and allow the joints to be clamped tight. They can go either side of the ARB as TVR's location tolerance was never the best. If the ARB is shifted to one side, centering it will be a big help.