Thermostat replacement
Discussion
I normally syphon out the header tank, then suck as much as I can from the swan neck outlet before undoing and removing the hose at the thermostat housing end only (shouldn't need to disconnect the other end). Undo the 2 securing bolts and be prepared for some spillage - about 1/3 of a pint. Use a new gasket, especially if the old one is in poor condition. Remember which way round the stat goes, and fit the jiggle pin to the top (unless the stat indicates otherwise). I use blue hylomar to seal the bolts (nothing on the gasket) and have never had a problem. You have to be careful when refitting the housing to make sure that you don't dislodge the stat. Obviously don't overtighten the bolts into the alloy. One all reconnected, I top up the coolant by adding to the swan neck, gently squeezing the top and bottom hoses to force air out. When full replace the swan neck cap. Add a little to the header (around an inch or so visible level) and warm up the car with the header tank cap off until the coolant rises close to the top. Quickly replace cap and continue running the engine until the fan(s) cut in - keep the revs moving to push the coolant around. Check for leaks. Allow to cool and top-up header as required. Good luck.
ETA - use a large syringe for sucking - coolant is not nice stuff to drink!)
ETA - use a large syringe for sucking - coolant is not nice stuff to drink!)
One trick I use: get a piece of fine wet'n'dry and lay it on a hard FLAT surface. Rub the mating face of the 'stat housing firmly across the paper, you'll probably find it's bowed (you'll see the rubbing marks around the bolt holes first but not evenly across the surface). If it is, keep rubbing until you have an even abraded finish, that way the mating face will be nearer flat and there's more chance of the gasket sealing first go.
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