Which ISO mode?
Discussion
I have been mainly using manual mode on my 550D so that I can force myself to learn the ins and outs of photography.
I have always had my ISO set to 100 for the best image quality and adjusted my aperture and speed to suit. However whilst out at California country park, I decided to set the ISO to auto.
I found it much easier and quicker to setup and take images.
Am I right in saying that as long as the ISO doesn't go much higher than about 400 I should have good quality pics when outside?
I shhot in RAW so the images can take a bit of cleaning.
What do you guys use? Auto or preset?
I have always had my ISO set to 100 for the best image quality and adjusted my aperture and speed to suit. However whilst out at California country park, I decided to set the ISO to auto.
I found it much easier and quicker to setup and take images.
Am I right in saying that as long as the ISO doesn't go much higher than about 400 I should have good quality pics when outside?
I shhot in RAW so the images can take a bit of cleaning.
What do you guys use? Auto or preset?
Zaxxon said:
I have been mainly using manual mode on my 550D so that I can force myself to learn the ins and outs of photography.
I have always had my ISO set to 100 for the best image quality and adjusted my aperture and speed to suit. However whilst out at California country park, I decided to set the ISO to auto.
I found it much easier and quicker to setup and take images.
Am I right in saying that as long as the ISO doesn't go much higher than about 400 I should have good quality pics when outside?
I shhot in RAW so the images can take a bit of cleaning.
What do you guys use? Auto or preset?
I tend to use preset ISO's of anywhere between 100-400 (after that I don't like the noise created). I don't think I've ever used auto iso.I have always had my ISO set to 100 for the best image quality and adjusted my aperture and speed to suit. However whilst out at California country park, I decided to set the ISO to auto.
I found it much easier and quicker to setup and take images.
Am I right in saying that as long as the ISO doesn't go much higher than about 400 I should have good quality pics when outside?
I shhot in RAW so the images can take a bit of cleaning.
What do you guys use? Auto or preset?
However, sometimes using manual mode is counter productice as you spend so much time mucking about you can miss 'that' shot. Far better to use AV/TV modes most of the time and switch to manual when you actually have time to sit and set up the shot. Using the AV/TV modes also lets you see what sort of shutter and aperture settings you need for when you do switch to manual.
14-7 said:
I tend to use preset ISO's of anywhere between 100-400 (after that I don't like the noise created). I don't think I've ever used auto iso.
However, sometimes using manual mode is counter productice as you spend so much time mucking about you can miss 'that' shot. Far better to use AV/TV modes most of the time and switch to manual when you actually have time to sit and set up the shot. Using the AV/TV modes also lets you see what sort of shutter and aperture settings you need for when you do switch to manual.
Thanks for the advice, I have never touched Av or Tv, will have a dabble.However, sometimes using manual mode is counter productice as you spend so much time mucking about you can miss 'that' shot. Far better to use AV/TV modes most of the time and switch to manual when you actually have time to sit and set up the shot. Using the AV/TV modes also lets you see what sort of shutter and aperture settings you need for when you do switch to manual.
I don't subscribe to the 'real men shoot manual' thing. Sometimes it is required, most times not. You can easily understand how aperture and shutter speed interact without shooting manual. The point of shooting manual is so that you have absolute control of the camera - so letting it make up the ISO as it goes along is counter-productive.
To answer your question though - I almost always use aperture-priority exposure, usually with c/w metering but sometimes spot, and set ISO for the task - eg 100 for studio but 320+ for weddings. But as they say 'your mileage may vary' - set it up and use it the way you get the results you want.
To answer your question though - I almost always use aperture-priority exposure, usually with c/w metering but sometimes spot, and set ISO for the task - eg 100 for studio but 320+ for weddings. But as they say 'your mileage may vary' - set it up and use it the way you get the results you want.
14-7 said:
However, sometimes using manual mode is counter productice as you spend so much time mucking about you can miss 'that' shot. Far better to use AV/TV modes most of the time and switch to manual when you actually have time to sit and set up the shot. Using the AV/TV modes also lets you see what sort of shutter and aperture settings you need for when you do switch to manual.
Does the lighting condition change when you have time to sit and compose the shot manually?
As for program mode, the top wheel on Canon (and Nikon?) will change the balance between shutter and aperture. It should even keep the bias programmed for the next shot as well.
So for instance, if you half press for exposure you can then twiddle the wheel to f22 and take the picture.
The next shot, although the camera can be pointing in another direction with a different EV, should retain f22, despite being in program mode.
Simpo Two said:
I don't subscribe to the 'real men shoot manual' thing. Sometimes it is required, most times not. You can easily understand how aperture and shutter speed interact without shooting manual. The point of shooting manual is so that you have absolute control of the camera - so letting it make up the ISO as it goes along is counter-productive.
To answer your question though - I almost always use aperture-priority exposure, usually with c/w metering but sometimes spot, and set ISO for the task - eg 100 for studio but 320+ for weddings. But as they say 'your mileage may vary' - set it up and use it the way you get the results you want.
I pretty much agree with this.To answer your question though - I almost always use aperture-priority exposure, usually with c/w metering but sometimes spot, and set ISO for the task - eg 100 for studio but 320+ for weddings. But as they say 'your mileage may vary' - set it up and use it the way you get the results you want.
The only point in manual is when you want to ignore the exposure meter. In auto/aperture/shutter modes you are depending on the camera's exposure meter to select the 'right' settings. You have the basic control of the depth of field or motion capture and the camera does the rest, on the understanding that it knows best with regard to exposure.
Most of the time it does a fine job, but sometimes you want an exposure which isn't what the camera wants to give you.
TooLateForAName said:
Simpo Two said:
I don't subscribe to the 'real men shoot manual' thing. Sometimes it is required, most times not. You can easily understand how aperture and shutter speed interact without shooting manual. The point of shooting manual is so that you have absolute control of the camera - so letting it make up the ISO as it goes along is counter-productive.
To answer your question though - I almost always use aperture-priority exposure, usually with c/w metering but sometimes spot, and set ISO for the task - eg 100 for studio but 320+ for weddings. But as they say 'your mileage may vary' - set it up and use it the way you get the results you want.
I pretty much agree with this.To answer your question though - I almost always use aperture-priority exposure, usually with c/w metering but sometimes spot, and set ISO for the task - eg 100 for studio but 320+ for weddings. But as they say 'your mileage may vary' - set it up and use it the way you get the results you want.
The only point in manual is when you want to ignore the exposure meter. In auto/aperture/shutter modes you are depending on the camera's exposure meter to select the 'right' settings. You have the basic control of the depth of field or motion capture and the camera does the rest, on the understanding that it knows best with regard to exposure.
Most of the time it does a fine job, but sometimes you want an exposure which isn't what the camera wants to give you.
Though it's all completely changed if you use a D3/D700 - rule book >>> out window. (But not of interest to the OP so I'll shut up).
D3 and D700 have big FF sensors with not huge amounts of pixels. This means one can bump up ISO to 3200 without nasty noise. I now keep my D3 set to 800 and don't think twice about 1600 or even 2500.
It means I can walk about with my DSLR and not take my tripod for most days. I can still get serious DOF handheld, by 'upping' the ISO and getiing a few free stops. Also... what's a flash?
D3 is why SO many pros jumped from Canon to Nikon a few years back. D700 is 'prosumer' version.
It means I can walk about with my DSLR and not take my tripod for most days. I can still get serious DOF handheld, by 'upping' the ISO and getiing a few free stops. Also... what's a flash?
D3 is why SO many pros jumped from Canon to Nikon a few years back. D700 is 'prosumer' version.
Elderly said:
The Dynamic Range on some digital cameras is greater at ISO 200 than at their ISO 100 setting.
Tho not on canons.Typically you loose a stop of DR each time you bump ISO, + some noise.
(actually on modern sensors such as the D7000's you can just shoot at base ISO, underexpose and push in post and it works out better than ever touching the ISO dial).
ISO makes the 3rd point of the exposure triangle. You should keep it as low as possible whilst having the required aperture and shutter speed that is fast enough for your use (hand held = 1/focal length or more).
Elderly said:
The Dynamic Range on some digital cameras is greater at ISO 200 than at their ISO 100 setting.
It can be, though whether this is noticeable in real life or just an 'oscilloscope job' I'm not sure.I saw this as an issue of grain/noise rather than DR as the word used was 'detail'.
I agree with everyone else. If you are wanting to not miss "the shot" then go with AV and tune based on DoF needs and get experienced in judging when to use exposure compensation to get it right first time as often as possible.
I usually stick to ISO 100 but use ISO 50 when doing landscapes or long exposures (when I remember to set it!). Saying that I have used auto ISO once or twice when in variable lighting situations as it makes it one less thing to think about.
Get out of manual exposure, go manual for ISO setting based on the lighting so that the camera is selecting shutter speeds of at least 1/focal length (i.e. at least 1/50s for a 50mm lens, 1/200s for a 200mm lens). Consider dialling in aperture before ISO unless the DoF of the image is key.
Personally I would prefer (and I am sure most other would too) a sharp picture with some noise rather than an ISO100 image that is blurred due to too slow a shutter speed.
I usually stick to ISO 100 but use ISO 50 when doing landscapes or long exposures (when I remember to set it!). Saying that I have used auto ISO once or twice when in variable lighting situations as it makes it one less thing to think about.
Get out of manual exposure, go manual for ISO setting based on the lighting so that the camera is selecting shutter speeds of at least 1/focal length (i.e. at least 1/50s for a 50mm lens, 1/200s for a 200mm lens). Consider dialling in aperture before ISO unless the DoF of the image is key.
Personally I would prefer (and I am sure most other would too) a sharp picture with some noise rather than an ISO100 image that is blurred due to too slow a shutter speed.
Simpo Two said:
I saw this as an issue of grain/noise rather than DR as the word used was 'detail'.
If you have a greater dynamic range you should get more detail in the shadows and/or more detail in the highlights. And if the highlights have clipped (due to a lack of DR) there will be no detail in those areas at all.
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