Adjusting the bonnet on S3
Adjusting the bonnet on S3
Author
Discussion

Jonsimmo

Original Poster:

9 posts

185 months

Friday 29th April 2011
quotequote all
Hi All

Just bought my first TVR, 1991 S3.
I'm very pleased!!!!

Enjoyed a side by side blast with Davewelly in his S2 along the Severn bridge yesterday which sounded awesome, can't believe I nearly bought a VX220 instead!!!!

Anyway I'm looking for a bit of advice, tried the search facility but can't find what I am looking for. My bonnet is slightly out of line and I need to adjust it. Any tips??

Cheers
Jon

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Friday 29th April 2011
quotequote all
Jonsimmo said:
Any tips??

Cheers
Jon
Don't get it too far out of alignment or I believe they can jam shut and be a right PITA to get open again!

When I changed my hinges I did it with the bonnet shut, from underneath. Supported the bonnet ehere it should "sit" and adjusted hinges to line up with holes. A quick test, a little fine tuning and all has worked well ever since.

Davewelly

220 posts

193 months

Friday 29th April 2011
quotequote all
Jonsimmo said:
Hi All

Just bought my first TVR, 1991 S3.
I'm very pleased!!!!

Enjoyed a side by side blast with Davewelly in his S2 along the Severn bridge yesterday which sounded awesome, can't believe I nearly bought a VX220 instead!!!!

Anyway I'm looking for a bit of advice, tried the search facility but can't find what I am looking for. My bonnet is slightly out of line and I need to adjust it. Any tips??

Cheers
Jon
Welcome to the wonderful world of TVR ownership.
We did look awesome yesterday, TVR's in stereo --- sweet biggrin.
I'm sure someone will have some advice on your bonnet, they are very helpful on here.

mep12345

2,061 posts

230 months

Friday 29th April 2011
quotequote all
hopefully THIS will help

Mark

Bobhon

1,059 posts

208 months

Friday 29th April 2011
quotequote all
mep12345 said:
hopefully THIS will help

Mark
+1 for putting masking tape over the bonnet catch holes to telltale where the bonnet pins are aligned to, BEFORE you push the bonnet closed.

I foolishly shut my bonnet before finishing the adjustments and 'locked' the bonnet in place, i.e. it wouldn't spring open again when the release lever was pulled. If you get into this situation then a bit of brute force and ignorance will be your friend.
With your charming assistant (find one from somewhere) pulling on the release lever you will have to push and shove and generally force the bonnet around until it does spring open. It is brutal, but it works.

HTH

Bob

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Friday 29th April 2011
quotequote all
mep12345 said:
hopefully THIS will help

Mark
Happy to help if you get stuck - drop me a PM

Norman

Jonsimmo

Original Poster:

9 posts

185 months

Friday 29th April 2011
quotequote all
mep12345 said:
hopefully THIS will help

Mark
Thats perfect!!

Cheers guys

Jonsimmo

Original Poster:

9 posts

185 months

Saturday 30th April 2011
quotequote all
Well I've found the problem:
Whoever resprayed the car didnt put the bonnet hinges back correctly, the drivers side has the adjustment bolt on the bottom not the top.
Wouldnt be a problem except I cant release the bolt due to overspray and corrosion. Any ideas other than WD40???

Cheers
Jon

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Saturday 30th April 2011
quotequote all


WD 40 is not a good penetrating oil (imho) better off with "plus gas" or even a drop of plain old diesel works well.

Alternatively there is a product called "freeze shock" that, as its name implies, freezes the bolt when you spray it on thereby cracking the rust. I was very dubious but it worked a treat on my siezed seatbelt to outrigger bolts that by there location would have been very difficult to drill out or heat up.

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Sunday 1st May 2011
quotequote all
Jonsimmo said:
Well I've found the problem:
Whoever resprayed the car didnt put the bonnet hinges back correctly, the drivers side has the adjustment bolt on the bottom not the top.
Wouldnt be a problem except I cant release the bolt due to overspray and corrosion. Any ideas other than WD40???

Cheers
Jon
That is a sodding big bolt and you should have good access to it. All you should need is a socket that fits it properly, and a breaker bar. If you're giving it a lot of welly and it still isn't moving, make sure you're using a hex socket not the more common bi-hex. If things still won't move, then before you start stripping the corners off the bolt or snapping things, get a tin of penetrating oil and apply liberally then leave it to soak for a day or two, repeat as many times as necessary.

(WD40 isn't penetrating oil.)

Jonsimmo

Original Poster:

9 posts

185 months

Sunday 1st May 2011
quotequote all
Finally did it!!!
I have no skin left on my knuckles but at least the bonnet is straight, thanks for the tips all!!thumbup