Essex Dipstick Tube?
Discussion
Been sorting the exhaust manifold on the 3000M and spotted the dipstick tube is pretty loose.
On closer inspection I suspect it's been replaced as it's 12mm and I presume it should be 1/2"?
Which also made me think - is it the right length? It's got a slight curve to it but it's about 8 3/4". With the dip stick pushed into it about 4 3/8" pokes out. Is that correct?
Any suggestions on where to hunt down a replacement? I'd make one up but not sure how easy thin walled 1/2" tube is to find?
Thanks for any help,
Gary
On closer inspection I suspect it's been replaced as it's 12mm and I presume it should be 1/2"?
Which also made me think - is it the right length? It's got a slight curve to it but it's about 8 3/4". With the dip stick pushed into it about 4 3/8" pokes out. Is that correct?
Any suggestions on where to hunt down a replacement? I'd make one up but not sure how easy thin walled 1/2" tube is to find?
Thanks for any help,
Gary
That is the correct measurements, you need to work with that ..OR replace as you say, it is thin wall tube and corrupts quite easily work at getting a good fit clean/prep and bond it into position. There is a later version that has a brazed on shoulder that allows a better seal, but no other sealing apart from push fit.
Adrian@
Adrian@
Given that you have a splash tray internally in the sump...I would do nothing other than flare (cleanly for about 20 mm) the end of your current tube to bring it back to size and liquid metal this into the block (you could make it into the later version by brazing a washer on of some kind (you will see the ring left by the top of the block on the tube) to spread the load point and help it adhere.
The car would have to be running at 7000 rpm and geared at 3.45 to generate enough crank spray along with some kind of either ring issue of forced induction (one of my old turbo's would do this on over-run if I was abusing it) to push oil to the bottom of the dipstick tube let alone out of the top....unless this is running as a race car, then additional sump baffles are required along with a sprung held dipstick (or even a totally different tube design TBH)
Adrian@
The car would have to be running at 7000 rpm and geared at 3.45 to generate enough crank spray along with some kind of either ring issue of forced induction (one of my old turbo's would do this on over-run if I was abusing it) to push oil to the bottom of the dipstick tube let alone out of the top....unless this is running as a race car, then additional sump baffles are required along with a sprung held dipstick (or even a totally different tube design TBH)
Adrian@
Don't have a flaring tool and, other than the brake pipe type, they don't seem to be easily available so resorted to a bit of old fashioned engineering.
Put a nice bit of flare in the pipe with a 6mm rawlbolt. Now fits quite snugly even with without any sealant but will add some as I suspect it might work loose.
Adrian - your words of wisdom much appreciated.
Thanks,
Gary
Put a nice bit of flare in the pipe with a 6mm rawlbolt. Now fits quite snugly even with without any sealant but will add some as I suspect it might work loose.
Adrian - your words of wisdom much appreciated.
Thanks,
Gary
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