Fuel line from Pump to filter?? (rear wheel arch)
Discussion
Hi guys,
It seems our Cerb has realised it has been sold and is throwing a hissy fit.. does anyone have any photos of this area/ know what the access is like and or if there are any special fittings to the hose either end?? If it is just jubilee clips and normal fuel hose (matched diameters and such) I am wondering if this may not be too hard to DIY fix to get to a specialist to have a proper look at it/ confirm its ok??
It appears to have split from what I can gather if that makes any difference??
Thanks in advance,
BCA
It seems our Cerb has realised it has been sold and is throwing a hissy fit.. does anyone have any photos of this area/ know what the access is like and or if there are any special fittings to the hose either end?? If it is just jubilee clips and normal fuel hose (matched diameters and such) I am wondering if this may not be too hard to DIY fix to get to a specialist to have a proper look at it/ confirm its ok??
It appears to have split from what I can gather if that makes any difference?? Thanks in advance,
BCA
Hi everyone....
Day 1....
Issue 1....
Quite an unnerving time seeing a pool of petrol under a quite warm exhaust after a quick drive out to get used to her....South London not agreeing with her yet!!
Anyway, as Ben says, seems like the fuel line from filter to pump has split, and possibly the pump itself has dropped a touch, as its angled forward and not level. This will be my first TVR DIY fix, so all help and advice appreciated, especially with regard to not leaking fuel as I change the pipe.....
Day 1....
Issue 1....
Quite an unnerving time seeing a pool of petrol under a quite warm exhaust after a quick drive out to get used to her....South London not agreeing with her yet!!
Anyway, as Ben says, seems like the fuel line from filter to pump has split, and possibly the pump itself has dropped a touch, as its angled forward and not level. This will be my first TVR DIY fix, so all help and advice appreciated, especially with regard to not leaking fuel as I change the pipe.....
Just pop the hose and fittings off the pump and filter and pop to you local Pirtek. Make sure you get proper petrol hose or Nitrile lined stuff. They can sake Tue new hose to your old fittings.
While your at it do the engine bay ones also.
When mine failed I had a 4ft diameter puddle on my garage floor after idling for a few minutes.
While your at it do the engine bay ones also.
When mine failed I had a 4ft diameter puddle on my garage floor after idling for a few minutes.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... About half way down the page has the photos from MarkH's rebuild.
The front hose has been done in the past couple of years ridds, and heavily re-routed and heatshielded, as has the centre line all the way back to the filter IIRC, so it should be fine. I cannot remember the fuel pump to the filter being replaced however... I presume it must come off for services when replacing the fuel filter? So I'd only worry about that for the moment and get it all fully looked over at service time.
The front hose has been done in the past couple of years ridds, and heavily re-routed and heatshielded, as has the centre line all the way back to the filter IIRC, so it should be fine. I cannot remember the fuel pump to the filter being replaced however... I presume it must come off for services when replacing the fuel filter? So I'd only worry about that for the moment and get it all fully looked over at service time.
Edited by BCA on Sunday 1st May 20:22
Have a measure of your hose. I got one last year from RG but it was the wrong size, the one I've got is about half a metre if you're interested.
As far as I'm aware, the pump doesn't have to come off when doing the filter, or at least it didn't when I replaced my filter a few months back. But then my filter is high up in the arch, and I know the configuration is different on later cars.
As far as I'm aware, the pump doesn't have to come off when doing the filter, or at least it didn't when I replaced my filter a few months back. But then my filter is high up in the arch, and I know the configuration is different on later cars.
jammy_basturd said:
Have a measure of your hose. I got one last year from RG but it was the wrong size, the one I've got is about half a metre if you're interested.
As far as I'm aware, the pump doesn't have to come off when doing the filter, or at least it didn't when I replaced my filter a few months back. But then my filter is high up in the arch, and I know the configuration is different on later cars.
I meant the filter comes off at certain service points, not the pump... I am pretty sure that stays put unless being replaced. It is a late 1997 car, first of the 4.5's. As far as I'm aware, the pump doesn't have to come off when doing the filter, or at least it didn't when I replaced my filter a few months back. But then my filter is high up in the arch, and I know the configuration is different on later cars.
Surely there are some of the recent body-off rebuild guys that have this written down?? I've had a look on our T350 and the Sagaris Workshop Manual (invaluable) - but they use a different pump set up within the tank?
I don't think Steve is currently able to get under the car properly, so hopefully someone will know what is needed. 
Can't quite work out where your filter is situated, but with mine, it was a pain, but not too difficult. I think both fittings are 17mm banjos. On the filter there should be a hexagonal stem that you can lock a spanner on to and use a second spanner to undo the banjo bolt. For mine getting two spanners in such a confined space can be a pain, but doable.
On the pump, the two electrical fittings can hinder sticking a spanner on the hexagonal stem, so it's hard to stop the pump moving about as you're trying to undo the banjo. I think in the end I used a screwdriver, placed between one of the electrical fittings at the stem to use as leverage to stop the pump moving. Use lots of penetrating fluid to lessen the effort required to undo the banjo, which in turn will less the stress the screwdriver puts on the electrical fitting.
On the pump, the two electrical fittings can hinder sticking a spanner on the hexagonal stem, so it's hard to stop the pump moving about as you're trying to undo the banjo. I think in the end I used a screwdriver, placed between one of the electrical fittings at the stem to use as leverage to stop the pump moving. Use lots of penetrating fluid to lessen the effort required to undo the banjo, which in turn will less the stress the screwdriver puts on the electrical fitting.
jammy_basturd said:
Can't quite work out where your filter is situated, but with mine, it was a pain, but not too difficult. I think both fittings are 17mm banjos. On the filter there should be a hexagonal stem that you can lock a spanner on to and use a second spanner to undo the banjo bolt. For mine getting two spanners in such a confined space can be a pain, but doable.
On the pump, the two electrical fittings can hinder sticking a spanner on the hexagonal stem, so it's hard to stop the pump moving about as you're trying to undo the banjo. I think in the end I used a screwdriver, placed between one of the electrical fittings at the stem to use as leverage to stop the pump moving. Use lots of penetrating fluid to lessen the effort required to undo the banjo, which in turn will less the stress the screwdriver puts on the electrical fitting.
Hi jammy, cheers for the info. Looking at the first pic the hose appears to close to coming off the pump spur already judging by the clean copper of the spur compared to the rest of the pump, probably not gonna be too difficult to get the hose off the pump looking at that. On the pump, the two electrical fittings can hinder sticking a spanner on the hexagonal stem, so it's hard to stop the pump moving about as you're trying to undo the banjo. I think in the end I used a screwdriver, placed between one of the electrical fittings at the stem to use as leverage to stop the pump moving. Use lots of penetrating fluid to lessen the effort required to undo the banjo, which in turn will less the stress the screwdriver puts on the electrical fitting.
BCA said:
Got to love TVR, that looks different to the photos Steve has put up and Markh1s??
Steve- I think you'll need to take if off completely and match it up to be sure?
Yeah agree Ben, I'll get the whole thing off and take to Pirtek, they said the existing fixings can be re-used. Steve- I think you'll need to take if off completely and match it up to be sure?
How much petrol do you reckon they'll be in the filter and pump? Just so I have a container big enough to catch it all.
jammy_basturd said:
It'll drain the tank as well, so you may well need a couple of jerry cans depending on what is in the tank.
Serious? Guys at RaceTech reckons only what's in the filter, pump and hose will leak, flow from tank doesn't pass thru pump until turned on.....that's a major bummer as there's 3/4 of a tank in there Can the pipe from tank to pump be clamped?? Chances of damage to that pipe if I do?What about dis-connecting battery? There's fuel already over the electrical connections on the pump, whats are the chances of a spark/arc from there?
Edited by djstevec on Tuesday 3rd May 13:05
djstevec said:
jammy_basturd said:
It'll drain the tank as well, so you may well need a couple of jerry cans depending on what is in the tank.
Serious? Guys at RaceTech reckons only what's in the filter, pump and hose will leak, flow from tank doesn't pass thru pump until turned on.....that's a major bummer as there's 3/4 of a tank in there Can the pipe from tank to pump be clamped?? Chances of damage to that pipe if I do?What about dis-connecting battery? There's fuel already over the electrical connections on the pump, whats are the chances of a spark/arc from there?
Edited by djstevec on Tuesday 3rd May 13:05
Having once been working half under a car that caught fire, take it from me it is seriously scary and fire can develop very rapidly.
Tanguero said:
It will only drain the filter contents, not the tank. And yes, I would disconnect the battery - and have a fire extinguisher handy. Better to have it and not need it etc.
Having once been working half under a car that caught fire, take it from me it is seriously scary and fire can develop very rapidly.
This. ^Having once been working half under a car that caught fire, take it from me it is seriously scary and fire can develop very rapidly.
Not sure of the capacity of the filter/ pipe, but reckon on a litre or so max, it will not drain the tank - that shouldn't happen, if it was even likely to, it'd be continually leaking through the split - whereas I presume it has now stopped as the car has been off.
If the connectors can be reused and it is just a matter of replacing the pipe, atleast it shouldn't cost a fortune.
Hi everyone....
Semi successful first repair!
New hose from Pirtek, new banjos. Almost went back on perfectly too. But I can't get a proper seal to the filter. I replaced the copper washers but still getting petrol dripping thru.
Tried one washer to the bottom, one to top, top and bottom and finally none, but all leak, finally went back to the old banjo and still leaking.
Best seal so far is washer to top and bottom. Washers are slightly wider than the ones that came off, but the internal diameter is pretty tight to the bolt diameter.
Where am I going wrong?
Semi successful first repair!
New hose from Pirtek, new banjos. Almost went back on perfectly too. But I can't get a proper seal to the filter. I replaced the copper washers but still getting petrol dripping thru.
Tried one washer to the bottom, one to top, top and bottom and finally none, but all leak, finally went back to the old banjo and still leaking.
Best seal so far is washer to top and bottom. Washers are slightly wider than the ones that came off, but the internal diameter is pretty tight to the bolt diameter.
Where am I going wrong?
Heat the original coppers washers up to cherry red in a flame and then let them cool down (no quenching with water)
The copper goes buttery soft and will deform much better when tightened up and hopefully create a decent seal.
Worked a charm on the steering rack hoses when I couldn't find any replacement copper washers.
The copper goes buttery soft and will deform much better when tightened up and hopefully create a decent seal.
Worked a charm on the steering rack hoses when I couldn't find any replacement copper washers.
mikesr said:
Heat the original coppers washers up to cherry red in a flame and then let them cool down (no quenching with water)
The copper goes buttery soft and will deform much better when tightened up and hopefully create a decent seal.
Worked a charm on the steering rack hoses when I couldn't find any replacement copper washers.
Cheers Mike, will give it a shot.The copper goes buttery soft and will deform much better when tightened up and hopefully create a decent seal.
Worked a charm on the steering rack hoses when I couldn't find any replacement copper washers.
Is there a better way of gripping the filter to be able to tighten more?
Edited by djstevec on Friday 6th May 21:57
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